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On top of Independence Monument


Member Since: Sep 6, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Bill Wright


Point Rank: # 1,226
Total Points: 497
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 225 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 8 | Stars 23 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : New Women's Speed Record on...
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: That is awesome! Way to go, Jes!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : Mudflap Girl (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: Oct 23, 2010

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Comments: Super cool, very fun route. Since I used this site as the guidebook, I thought I'd give back a bit. I did a trip report here:

web.me.com/billwright510/Mobile_Me_Site/Climbing_Blog/Entrie>>>

There is a link to tons of photos there, as well.

Unfortunately, we did not print out or read the comment about the rappel route. Our bad. We did not find it and retreated back to rap the route, which went very nicely, except for one brief, stressful mo... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Chimney Rock Area : ... : Grand Wazoo (5.8)
By: Bill Wright When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: I've done just the first pitch twice now. The first time I did it was about two years ago and I felt it was at least 5.9. I just did this on March 23rd and I think it was 10+ R. The day before I climbed Earth Angel (10-) and afterwards we climbed T-Rex (10-) and this pitch is definitely harder and much more dangerous than anything on those other two routes. I still need to go back and finish this route. Good to know that things will get easier above. The first time I was with my wife and she cou... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Dec 15, 2009

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Comments: Absolutely stellar route! I just climbed it last Saturday (Dec. 12) and feel it's the best route I've done in Arizona. I know that means little without a list of routes that I've done there, but the route is outstanding. Each pitch has such unique character. It was quite cold when we did and somewhat wooden hands might have colored my perceptions. I thought the first pitch had one very hard, super insecure move. It just didn't seem like it would work out. Besides that one move the first pitch is... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Bill Wright When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Hi Scott,

I was the climber that knocked off the rock on you and your partner on May 9th. I was traversing the ledge from the top of the 2nd pitch of Rewritten towards the top of the 2nd pitch of Green Spur (since we had caught the party above us). I knew the ledge was dangerous and I was trying to be careful, but I screwed up. I stepped on a rock that was well embedded in the ledge (some dirt here) and it moved. When I stepped off it, it went. I screamed bloody murder. "ROCK! ROCK! ROCK!" I sc... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Beaver Cleaver (5.8+ PG13)
By: Bill Wright When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: I think this route is less protected than the High Exposure exit. It really only has the one bolt (before reaching the crack system) and a fall from just below that bolt or just before reaching the crack would be a nasty fall. The High Exposure Exit has two bolts. On each route they do share an extra bolt at the start, but this bolt is so low that it hardly counts as protection. You're going to hit the buttress regardless of this bolt. Also, High Exposure is 5.6 and has good holds. The Beaver Cl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: Bill Wright When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: As of yesterday, there is now a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top of the second pitch. It is about 33-meters to the ground from here and a single 60-meter rope will probably get you down to the top of the easy pillar at the start of the first pitch. From there it is easy (4th class?) scrambling to the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Shoyu State (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Jan 3, 2007

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Comments: Just a correction on Charles approach suggestions above. There is no way to hike to the 1911 Gully. In fact, the 1911 Gully is a climb. To enter it from the bottom is probably 5.6 climbing and to exit out the top (a really cool chimney climb) is 5.5 or so.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Lost And Found : Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly (5.10 X)
By: Bill Wright When: Nov 15, 2006

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Comments: I did this route with my friend Lou Lorber in October 2006. This is a nice rock if you seek solitude. The approach from the Matron to the base of this rock is nasty, but thankfully short. The descent is the quite a bushwhack as well.

The climbing is fun, though. The first pitch is runout and you need to be careful on the 5.8 opening moves and the first twenty feet, as it is quite steep and covered in lichen, though the holds are pretty good.

I avoided the very serious crux bulge on the 2nd pit... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster Temple : NE Arete (5.9)
By: Bill Wright When: Feb 8, 2006

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Comments: The Keyhole Flake that used to be on pitch two of this route is now gone and the 2nd pitch is the crux of the route now, at probably 5.10a/b and a bit scary. You can climb with route with a single set of cams from green Alien to #3 Camalot and maybe a set of stoppers and be well protected.

Most seem to do this route over 2-3 days, but it has been done, south-rim-to-south-rim in 18 hours and probably less. A great adventure day.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: Bill Wright When: Feb 8, 2006

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Comments: This route felt hard and exciting for 5.8. The first pitch looks easy, but there is a difficult slab move on this pitch. The next pitch, the traverse seemed to be the crux and it is a bit heady and a bit pumpy, so very, very cool. Great photo potential here. I think the route feels more like a 5.9 on the first two pitches. The 3rd pitch is a super cool, very unique and fun crack/chimney pitch.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: Jan 30, 2006

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Comments: A very fun adventure route. I went up four pitches once and then a few years later did the entire route, including leading the last pitch. The last pitch is indeed very heads up, as the rock is questionable and the runout is huge, but if done right I think the climbing is no harder than 5.6. I topped out right at the rappel bolts. I never was in a corner, so I do think Tony went too far to the left.

I concur that the first pitch (the drilled angle face) is the toughest pitch on the route, thoug... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Bill Wright When: Jan 27, 2006

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Comments: I think this pitch is 10c - my nemesis grade at Eldo. Definitely 10c if you combine the first and second pitches, which I recommend for the challenge and the great belay at the top of the second pitch. I think this pitch is considerably harder than other 10c Eldo pitches like Outer Space and Tagger. I also think it's harder than the last pitch of Superslab (10d).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jan 27, 2006

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Comments: I've led this route many times and it is always hard and exciting for me. I think the crux is solid 10c and tricky. The climbing above is very heady and I think it is 5.9 with huge fall potential. This is a serious pitch. About five feet after finishing the crux, you can get a black Alien off to the left. This is a bit of a blind placement, but it felt very solid. This is difficult to find and I don't usually find it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Toys for Tots (5.11a R)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Yes, the hangers are still the very thin hangers. They are probably fine, but definitely not as bomber as the bolts on other routes, like Suparete down to the right.

This route seems pretty contrived to not use the corner on the left, but it would be pretty hard without a stem over to that corner. Even with stemming over to that corner, I thought the pulls on the holds was at least 10+. it's short, though.

Definitely a heads up finish. This whole route is harder than it looks.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Kasparov Traverse (R)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 1, 2005

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Comments: A trip report on this climb can be found here:

www.wwwright.com/climbing/tripreports/2005/KasparovTraverse.>>>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Bill Wright When: Apr 2, 2004

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Comments: This is a really cool crack with good protection. I guess it isn't 11c, but it is sure hard for me. It is builds in difficulty all the way and the pump factor for me in the last twenty feet is too much, but the holds are generally good and there is no real technical crux or bouldery, stopper move. Save a couple of medium cams for the belay.

You must continue up at least one pitch to the two-bolts at the top of the South Face. From here you can do two raps with a single 60-meter rope, but it wil... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Bill Wright When: Oct 31, 2003

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Comments: I really like this route, and I've climbed it five times, leading it twice, and always getting spanked. Steep routes like this are not my strength (hence my interest in it), but I've climbed a lot of routes around this grade for for someone like me, this is solid 11b. Plus, if you come off at the big roof while following, it might be impossible to get back on. This happened to me once (almost twice) and to my second once.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 5, 2003

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Comments: Joe, A.C.,

As one who enjoys moving fast sometimes and has probably behaved badly in the past behind a slower team, I have some, probably obvious, comments on this situation. First, yes, if you want to be on the most popular route on a weekend, you better get up EARLY. I frequently climb in Eldo on weekday mornings, and you don't even need to be there that early to be first on any route. 6:30 a.m. will do this time of year. Of course, that only gives you first dibs on your first route, so there... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 22, 2003

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Comments: Hi Aaron,

It seems like I've really infuriated you. That wasn't my intention at all. I was just speculating about a POSSIBLE reason for your distaste for people who like to go fast and, presumably, then post about it. If this isn't your reason, then maybe you can enlighten me. Why does this upset you? Because we shouldn't treat the mountains like a race track? Why not? Because it is dangerou? So what? It's all dangerous, is it not? We all draw the line for ourselves. Wouldn't a slower climber t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 18, 2003

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Comments: "racing against a time so you can run back to town and talk about what hot shit you are. "

I'm always disappointed to read such comments. Apparently the poster is a bit embarrassed to even write it, hence the A.C. moniker. Unfortunately there are many people like this. They are actually offended that some people go fast and take some pride in going fast. I've wondered why this is and I think, for some, it is because they somehow feel less of a climber when someone speeds by them. This is silly.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 11, 2003

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Comments: Man, I wish I were as weak as you guys...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Rama (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 11, 2003

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Comments: The ground to the left is just too close to be avoided on this route. I don't think you should rate the route by calling this stuff (two feet to the left and never out of arm's reach from the bolts) off limits. That's just too contrived to make sense. So, it's not 5.11. 10a might be a bit low, but a lot closer.

Also, the gear section above the bolts is probably 5.8. I placed two yellow Aliens and a green Alien. I could have placed probably eight Aliens if I had wanted. This isn't dicey or thin.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 24, 2003

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Comments: I think this route is way hard. I couldn't do this move and didn't really even get close to doing it. This type of move isn't my strength, though. Fortunately, you can still lead the route by just swinging over on the bolt. My partner, a semi-famous local, solid 5.12 climber, fell off it while following, so I think the move is pretty dang hard.

The climbing above the lip is pretty dicey (but well protected) face climbing (10-) to the anchors.

We did the second and third pitches as well and I'... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 23, 2003

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Comments: Does anyone know if the Ellingwood Ledges route and the Prow have been linked before? Since these are the two most famous climbs in the area, it seems like someone would have done this before, including the traverse between the Needle and the Peak as the approach to the Prow.


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