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On top of Independence Monument


Member Since: Sep 6, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 21, 2012
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All (224) | Routes (6) | Areas | Photos (66) | Comments (106) | Posts (8) | Stars (23) | Ratings (15)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Shasta (5.10- R)
By: Bill Wright When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I did this climb last Friday with Bill Briggs. He has already done it four times! He thinks this climb is 3-stars, but I agree with Steve: 2-stars. And even that probably depends on the climbing getting a bit cleaner.

The first two pitches are both S+ in my opinion. The first part of the first pitch is protected great, but the finish is runout and that is the hardest climbing. The pro here is a bit tricky and I think you should be a 5.10 leader to do this pitch safely.The 2nd pitch has a big r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Missing Link (5.10d)
By: Bill Wright When: Apr 1, 2003

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Comments: This pitch is more than a boulder problem. The crux undercling section is 5.10d, but the small roof above is 10c. Indeed, the bird shit on this pitch is bad and really the only reason not to do the pitch. The disgusting section is quite short, probably just one or two hand placments. The climbing is challenging and cool and would be at least 2-stars if it wasn't for the crap...

A variation can be done on the wall just left of the undercling. My partner in fact led it this way and didn't touch a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Bill Wright When: Mar 17, 2003

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Comments: I feel a bit silly commented on the difficulty of a route so hard, but since I've climbed this (only seconding) and done C'est La Vie (leading), I'll give my two cents. C'est La Vie is a very hard five-foot boulder problem. Really. The climbing above and below this 5-foot section is 5.9 at worst. This route (Le Boomerang) climbs up through what I consider the crux of the first pitch of Genesis (11a) and directly into sustained slab climbing of which I think there are at least two sections as har... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jan 27, 2003

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Comments: I just toproped this climb for the third time yesterday. I find it a fun, challenging route. I fell off it a couple of times yesterday. I'd like to make this a weekend warrior type headpoint project. Nothing like the big boys like Steve Levin and company, but something a regular guy can aspire to.

The hardest move for me is just past the second bolt - reaching that hole. This involves a desperate, painful sidepull on a small, sharp hold. I think the final slab move, while very thin, isn't too h... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Bill Wright When: Oct 30, 2002

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Comments: Charles, the record you mention is car-to-car. It seems possible that they took 45 minutes to descend the gully and rope up. That would put the route time at 2h45 and faster than the new Nose record. :-)

This route is MUCH shorter than the Nose of El Cap (15 pitches vs. 33 pitches) and MUCH easier (5.10d vs. 5.14). Hans and Yuji would likely be able to do this route (after climbing it at least once or twice) in well under two hours, probably under 90 minutes, and maybe under an hour.

That said... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Unknown 10c aka Quadrille (5.10c)
By: Bill Wright When: Oct 22, 2002

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Comments: I agree with Tony on this one. In its current state (actually I climbed it about a year ago), I think this climb is more like 5.11a/b(?). It is a short boulder problem pitch, but it is sharp and quite difficult, I think. Even the first clip is pretty exciting.

Bill


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Mexican Hat : Bandito Route (C1)
By: Bill Wright When: Oct 14, 2002

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Comments: Steve Mathias and I climbed this route in around 7.5 minutes this past Saturday and then George Bell and I did it in 5m33s. That said anyone who is halfway decent with aiders should be able to crush this time - if they have George jugging. He jugged the route in 63 seconds! Stupid, silly, FUN stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Umph Slot (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: Oct 14, 2002

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Comments: Mark must be a Hobbit or a Dwarf to get inside this route. Climbed on the outside this route is well into the 5.11 range. I recommend two #5 Camalots and a #3 Big Bro if aiding this baby (the only way I could get up it). Nothing else really fits because you can't reach in far enough to place a #4 Camalot. You do place some smaller gear at the start, but be careful you don't place it too deep and you'll need to go find Mark to retrieve it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : East Overhang (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 26, 2002

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Comments: This is a very aesthetic finish when climbing the Second Flatiron. Unfortunately, it is much harder than the rest of the face. The hard climbing is really only about six feet long, but it is quite difficult and confusing. The climbing is very steep here and the holds for feet and hands are quite marginal. I don't think tape is necessary as you only do a two or three hand jams and they weren't that rough. I followed it without any skin damage and I've been known to chew up my hands.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : The Eighth Day (aka MC 900 ... (5.13a)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 13, 2002

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Comments: This brings up a good point about first ascents that I recently discussed with my friend Eric Winkelman. The crux of the matter in this case seems to be: who did the first free ascent (i.e. redpoint, read: pinkpoint, but that is another issue altogether). Why does Mark care if he is the first to redpoint it? Because it is a great accomplishment? I think not. If he is the only one allowed to try the route, then it is almost no accomplishment at all to be first. It is a given.

In Europe, some I'm... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 10, 2002

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Comments: Pro: Largely protected by fixed gear (pins and good bolts), but some trad gear is required on the lower section. Bring stoppers, Aliens blue through red, one #3 or #2 Camalot can be placed low on the route. At least 10 draws and slings. Details:No, I've not redpointed this route or even led it, but I got dragged up it this morning by Bill Briggs and thought it was a worthy addition to this site.

The route starts with the first half of the first pitch of Genesis. Climb the corner sy... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 9, 2002

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Comments: After you climb this dicey route, reflect on Derek Hersey who third classed this route in 1992! Yikes!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: I just led the 2nd pitch this morning and I didn't place any RP's at the start of the route. With the belayer positioned correctly, this feels quite safe. Don't fall after the crux move, of course, but then it is easy. Place the stopper underneath the small flake - tricky to find and place because it isn't obvious, but it's there.

I led the third pitch as well and after clipping the three fixed pins, you can place what appears to be a very solid #2 steel RP (might be a #1 - anywhere... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Deersquatch (5.11c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: I'm confused about where this route is. The route just left of Athlete's Feat is called Never A Dull Moment. The first pitch is a slab traverse to the right and is protected by two bolts. It is rated 12a and seems to be reasonably protected (on this first pitch). To the left of this route is Jackson's Wall Direct (aka South Face). Does it lie in between these two routes? Are the anchors shared with another route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tongo (5.10d)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: I tried to link this route as one pitch since the second pitch was so short. I put in what I thought was a bomber red Alien straight up underneatth the roof and then couldn't figure out how to do the crux. If you know the trick this move isn't that bad and it is really just one move or two, but it was too much for me to onsight and I pitched off. I pulled the Alien and fell about 30+ feet (missing the ledge thankfully and I'm not sure how I missed it) and was caught by the draw clipped to the fi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 29, 2002

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Comments: I climbed this route yesterday and it is indeed a great route. On the 3rd pitch, mentioned above, I have some comments. First, the loose flakes are not where the pins are driven. These flakes seemed completely solid to me. Yes, the first pin is difficult to clip and have a small biner for this (Neutrinos work here). The loose flakes below this are a bit freaky but they can be avoided. This section is steep, but short and didn't seem too serious (if the pins hold and they seemed good to me).

The... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 26, 2002

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Comments: My vote for the hardest 5.9 route in the Boulder area is By Gully on Castle Rock. Especially if you have a big chest (I don't, but my partner did). An equal sandbag is Coffin Crack just to the left. If you don't have huge hands, this route just can't be 5.10!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Mr. Two-Face (5.11c)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 26, 2002

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Comments: I guess it is "easy" compared to the other routes at this cliff, but this combination is much harder than either the Joker or the Riddler as it combines the hardest parts of both, though you do get a pretty decent rest before switching routes. Very continuous, challenging climbing.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 23, 2002

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Comments: Bernard, I didn't mean to be poking holes in anyone's arguments with my El Cap information. Like I said, it was relevant to the discussion. I know the point you were making and you made it. El Cap is just a hot topic for me since I have recently been up it and knew the state. The belay on the Salathe in particular has scared me and hence a hot topic for me and not relevant to the discussion. I probably shouldn't have.

Anyway, I wanted to be clear that my intent wasn't to nit-pick, but to clear... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 22, 2002

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Comments: This probably isn't that relevant to the above discussion, but above A.C. says, "The Nose on El Cap has two or three fat new bolts at every belay these days, and I doubt all of these were just gear updates. " This is NOT true. Many of the belays have new bolts. Sometimes one, sometimes two, rarely three. Some belays still have no new bolts. The same situation exists on the Salathe, despite all the free climbing going on there. In particular, the belay beneath the Salathe roof is quite frightenin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Blows Against the Empire (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 21, 2002

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Comments: Who's spraying, A.C.? It seems like everyone here says this route is 11a (the rating listed). I guess there is even a short-person solution that makes this route 11a. Everyone is different and if this routes doesn't play to your strengths, it might feel tougher than 11a or visa-versa. Just like any route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 20, 2002

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Comments: A friend suggested that I post a link to a TR I recently wrote about getting dragged up this route by Hardly Manson. So, for what it's worth, here it is:

www.daniellaytonwright.com/climbing/tripreports/2002/NakedEd>>>

Bill


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: David,

Good call on not climbing Lamb's Slide as it is extremely dangerous right now. I once climbed Kiener's after climbing the North Chimney and it worked out fine. We wanted to climb the Casual Route, but it was mobbed. The traverse from this route to Kiener's looks insanely dangerous and loose and Cameron Tague was killed along here, but it goes okay if you're really careful. The scree field isn't as steep as it first looks.

Bill


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : East Face/4th Flatiron (5.4 R)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: Ernie,

Sorry you had an unpleasant time on this rock. It isn't as nice as other Flatirons, but I still enjoy it. Yes, protection is sparse. I usually solo it, but I know this isn't an option for many climbers. It doesn't seem much more dangerous to solo than to lead this baby because of the runouts.

Also sorry that you didn't know the first credo of Flatiron scrambling: NEVER venture between the 4th and 5th Flatirons. I've done this once - which is all anyone does it. It is as you described.
... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 9, 2002

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Comments: Another alternate way to rappel this route with one rope, is to climb up and left to the rappel anchors mid-way up to the start of the Naked Edge. This is sort of hard to describe, but it is up and left for sixty feet or so and is on top of a big boulder. From here, you rappel down to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of T2 and then to the ground. An additional advantage is that you can now toprope the dangerous, difficult, and very cool start to T2. I think you need a 60-meter rope to d... more >>


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