Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
On top of Independence Monument


Member Since: Sep 6, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 18, 2014
Contact Bill Wright


Point Rank: # 1,254
Total Points: 497
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bill Wright been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 107 | Posts 8 | Stars 23 | Ratings 15
Page 7 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Bill Wright When: May 23, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Steve's right about the workout for NE Buttress of HCR in Yosemite, except that you should hike Green Mountain first. NE Butt is the 5.9 climber's Astroman. It is big, burly, and the second half is much harder than the first half. Even 5.11 and above climbers (like Steve) respect this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: May 21, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, this is a problem with how the database is structured on this site. I don't think the Maiden has ever closed for bird nesting. The closure usually includes Shadow Canyon, which is over the ridge from the Maiden. The Maiden doesn't quite reach the ridge so all routes on the Maiden remain open.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Magnetism (5.11c)
By: Bill Wright When: May 20, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I really enjoyed this route. It has a great variety of moves on it with a technical, fingery crux and then a long, pumpy, reachy section above. Good reach is an advantage on this route and seems to bring the grade on the upper section down a letter grade or so.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: May 20, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I just climbed this route two days ago and wanted to add my two cents. For me the crux of this climb is certainly the first pitch. This crack is awkward and funky and there are some big reaches from marginal jams. It feels 5.10+ to me. The pro isn't foolproof either as the crack is wider deeper into the crack, so pro takes a bit more effort to place. The pitch is steep and sustained. I didn't place anything larger than an orange Alien on this pitch. It is a thin, sharp crack, mostly, with some h... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: Bill Wright When: May 16, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route for your first 5.12. I'm trying to make it my first 5.12. The protection is excellent - you're nearly on a toprope for most of the climb. I really like the variety of moves on this pitch.

The hand jam move at the top is the crux for me. I recommend taping up your left hand. If this move is at your limit (as it is for me), if you fall off this move you'll get a big of a gobie on the back of your hand that will hinder further attempts. Since taping for one jam (there are tw... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Windy (5.11a/b R)
By: Bill Wright When: May 16, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This route was rated 10d in the old Rossiter guide. NOT! The pure power lieback move off the top of the pillar is very hard. As I fell off it repeatedly (on toprope, of course), I was thinking to myself, "This isn't 5.10!" Glad to see it has a more correct rating here.

It also is a serious lead. Definitely bring a #5 Camalot to protect the start. Otherwise, this is X rated.

The second pitch is a very cool chimney.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Bill Wright When: May 16, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This is such a good, fun scramble. I think it is the equal of the Third Flatiron in quality climbing. Doing this early in the morning will hook you for good on Flatiron scrambles.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: Bill Wright When: May 16, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I did this climb with George and I agree that it is quite exciting. On the first pitch there is gear, but you are definitely doing 10a moves maybe 15-20 feet above gear. You have to work to get the gear as well. Clearly this is casual for some climbers. Not for me.

The belay is definitely shakey. I hadn't thought of stringing these two pitches because of the desire for a mental rest, but in retrospect that might be the safest approach. I'm not sure if a 60-meter rope would reach.

The crux mov... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatironette : East Face and South Ridge (5.4)
By: Bill Wright When: May 9, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, I did recently climb this damn thing for the second time because I mistook it for the Fourth Flatiron. How embarrassing. You'll know when you're at the Fourth Flatiron when it ACTUALLY touches the Royal Arch Trail, not just gets close to it. Also, ten feet up on a ledge is currently a cairn on the Fourth Flatiron. If you don't see these signs turn around. This route sucks!

I've soloed it twice and there is a very dicey section fifty or more feet off the deck. Both times I've regretted not ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : C'est What? (5.11b)
By: Bill Wright When: May 9, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I just did this climb last night. What a fun route. This was my second time on it The first try had me hanging on the rope, so I can attest to the good protection.

Having done the approach three times now (once for Jack the Ripper), you can get in a fair RP pretty early and then, after fifteen more feet you can get in a "bomber" RP, if that isn't an oxymoron.

Protecting the first clip with a #1 Camalot is a great suggestion and one that I took. If you put two long slings on it, there is ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Bill Wright When: May 9, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Nice job, AC, on figuring out the 11a face move. I've only followed this pitch once and I didn't figure it out. I think the runout above this move is horrendously scary looking. I need to follow this pitch once move before I'd lead it.

On the second pitch, the key is matching on a small, insecure hold up and right. You get it with your right hand first, then delicately step up and match - very insecure. This move is hard, but not as baffling as the move on the first pitch. At least for me. I've... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: Bill Wright When: May 7, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, I guess I am inflating the grades, but I'm trying to bring them more in line with hundreds of other 5.8's. I think this pitch is certainly a grade harder than Pear Buttress (another 5.8 at Lumpy). Grades on routes are arrived at my consensus, usually, but sometimes people are very attached to the traditional ratings - which are frequently way off and serve little purpose.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Backtalk (5.10c R)
By: Bill Wright When: May 6, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I've led this climb three times and Blackwalk maybe five times. I find Blackwalk considerably harder and much scarier. I just have lots of trouble at the crux of Blackwalk. This route is much more straight forward for me. It is exciting though as you can't see the marginal fixed pin until you are eye to eye with it. It doesn't look good, but it is the only piece. Fun, exciting climbing. Both of these are good tests for your head.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: Bill Wright When: May 6, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, this climb seems to be 5.9 in my view and a bit spicey getting to the chimney itself. Tiger's Tooth on the other side is MUCH harder and I think more like 10a/b (but it will feel MUCH harder than any 10a sport climb, hand crack, finger crack, etc. as is the custom with offwidths.)


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bill Wright When: May 6, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I did this route with Dr. Offwidth and I've seen him onsight 5.11 offwidth before. I led the first and third pitches and he led the crux, second pitch. He fell his first time up, lowered back to the belay and tried again. He fell again and decided to just continue up. He's a big guy (6'3", 200 pounds) and for his size there is no way this is 5.10. He is a VERY good offwidth climber.

I found this pitch to be easiest if climbed right side in for halfways up it, then switch to left side in. This d... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Frothing Green (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: May 3, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This is a typically contrived Boulder Canyon route. If you climb the natural line and clip all the bolts, there is no way this route is 11a. It is probably closer to 5.9. Ken thought 10c, so maybe I'm overreacting. I guess there were some hard moves. The crux is supposedly the finishing slab, but you'd have to get someone up there to tape off the illegal holds to make this 11a. There are big holds on the right and left side of the blank slab with the bolts. I was never more than an arm length of... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Boulder Direct (5.5)
By: Bill Wright When: May 1, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I've combined this route with Reggae my last two times in the Canyon. You can do this as one pitch with a 60-meter rope. Since the bottom is pretty easy, you can also just run the rope behind the flake at the top of Reggae and downclimb to the rappel anchor while your partner climbs the lower part of the route. You are both on a toprope here, so this is pretty safe. It makes doing this very fast and efficient and lots of fun.

This also avoids the traffic jams that are ever present on Calypso.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: Apr 29, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Tony,

I don't think you could climb this roof further left. Actually, what I mean to say is that I couldn't climb it further left. I'm sure someone could climb this thing about anywhere.

It is actually non-trivial to even get to the base of this offwidth. Once there the rock isn't so good. Too bad. This would be a very nice finish with solid rock.

Yes, these running tights aren't very fashionable. To make matters worse I had a big hole in them. George fixed the whole via some digital shenanig... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Bill Wright When: Apr 1, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: No, Richard isn't right. Because the Cima Grande isn't at Cinque Torre! It is at the Tre Cime de Laverado. At least the famous Cima Grande of the "Six Great North Faces of the Alps" fame.

Perhaps the Cinque Torre also has a Cima Grande...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Burning Chrome (5.11d)
By: Bill Wright When: Mar 11, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I did this route yesterday - with the lower crux bypass. I think the guidebook we had called this route 11b with the bypass. I was excited to get this route clean, but now I see Leo calls is 10c! :-)

I don't think the route is that easy. I felt the bottom section was quite pumpy and probably 10c/d alone. The upper face seems to be 5.11a/b, but maybe that is wishful thinking. The edges are pretty good, but they are small and the wall is steep. It isn't very long, though. Anyway, a lot of fun. Go... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Review (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Mar 11, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I just did this route yesterday and it is indeed quite fun, though I disagree with the friction crux or even friction climbing. This is a face climb with varied and cool moves.

There are only 3 clips on the easy terrain leading up to the roof. I found moving left at the roof the toughest part because it was hard for me to figure out and a big pumpy here. I solved it with an iron cross in order to move my feet left. Here, you do need some good friction for your feet, but this isn't considered th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: Bill Wright When: Nov 29, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I'll add to the grade inflation, but saying this route is 5.10. So much of this depends on the type of climber and very much on the size of his/her hands, but in relation to the other 5.10's in this area, it is 5.10. Many consider it harder than the Incredible Hand Crack, which is given the 5.10c rating.

This brings up an interesting point with this area. Many of the climbs are not given a letter grade - just 5.10 or 5.10+. I was initially annoyed by this because I am very solid on 10a, but qu... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Triple Jeopardy (5.8)
By: Bill Wright When: Nov 29, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: This route is rated 5.9 in the Stewart Green book, but 5.8 seems about right. Lots of rest, lots of options, short, gear every inch of the way. Great intro leading route for this area. Unfortunately, there aren't many near this easy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: Nov 29, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: While getting onto the pedestal is definitely the technical crux, the hardest part for me is just enduring to the anchors. I have relatively small hands and the #3 Camalot-sized crack feels insecure and drains me. I think this is a MUCH harder crack than the Incredible Hand Crack (which is trivial except for the overhanging twenty foot section) and much harder than the perfect #2 Camalot crack of Generic Crack. I also find it harder than any other 5.10 crack that I have done in this ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Yellow Traverse (5.9)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 13, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a pretty interesting route. The climbing is thought provoking because of the questionable gear. Knowing that it was rated "X" or "VS" I looked for gear everywhere and placed about ten pieces on this short traverse. Of course, only maybe 3 or 4 were any good... :-)

Diffraction is the better choice to get to Metamorphosis. It is better protected, has more interesting climbing, and is much better protected for the second.


Page 7 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>