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Member Since: Apr 16, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Bill Lawry


Point Rank: # 381
Total Points: 1,434
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All (716) | Routes (36) | Areas (16) | Photos (125) | Comments (209) | Posts (133) | Stars (124) | Ratings (73)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: Just a note that, reportedly, the ring piton of the shown P4 has pulled out and there is not any plans to replace it (there are other ways to climb the route). Not sure whether there is any other good protection assuming it is the piton I remember.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Frog
By: Bill Lawry When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: If taking the westerly gully, don't miss the ring piton in the brow of the huge chock stone.

And if you came down from the Crest and plan to descend from the summit by the more easterly gully (haven't tried it), consider leaving big packs nearer the bottom of the easterly gully. Am unsure exactly where that is but somewhere uphill from the metal sign should work.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Frog : West Ridge (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: P1: If you think your second might peel off in the lower half of the starting crack, consider belaying earlier to avoid him/her decking while using up 50+ meters of rope stretch. Top of the crack seems good for a belay but perhaps (not sure) there's something suitable a little further up.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Broken Ladders (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: The direct line (noted by Bill as the rap) has also been toproped. Start the same crack as broken ladders ...

Todd, Our rap with a 60m (doubled) ended quite a bit climber's right of the start of Broken Ladders ... ~25 feet maybe? I haven't tried rapping back to the start of BL and so am not certain a 60 will reach.

BL - great initials by he way. ;-)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: Inherently tree pro'd! :-)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Chris Wenker remarked about the westward descent that is south of Gertch: "It's the rappel stations in the south descent gully that will get your attention though."

Agreed! (as of 1 Nov 2013) And they are NOT readily/easily backed up but can be with some effort.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Great topo. We brought this on the route with us.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Great to see the way you did it, Forrest. A couple notes:

  • A 70 meter rope will reach from your "P7" belay (the "hanging" belay), over and up through the three rooflets, and then in a direct line straight to the top with little rope drag;
  • this Photo is worth taking on the climb.



Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: As Karl Kiser said, the rap bolts on the South Descent need replacement. As of 1 Nov 2013, the first rap anchor consists of two rusty 1/4 inch bolts (with chains) that are challenging to back up; the second rap consists of a single 3/8 inch (?) bolt which is also challenging to back up. We did the raps with a single 70 meter rope but believe a single 60 meter rope would be just fine. Also, be mentally prepared for a lot of relatively non-thorny bushwhacking above the raps: [[1084... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Broken Ladders (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: One can rap with a single 60 meter rope. But don't rap by following the route. Instead, follow something closer to a plumb line which eventually drops into a huge right-facing dihedral (climber's view).


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : King Me (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: True that the photo shows a lead going past where King Me exits to climber's left. Humbly, I think there is an argument here for not having any bolts in the chimney at all - even for the part that King Me uses.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crackula (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Maybe P2 can be thought of as the Gold-i-Locks pitch. If one climbed P1 and found that it ...

a) ... wasn't spicy enough, trend up and left to climb the obvious dihedral;
b) ... was just right, go ~straight up until can move right onto the face, go up, and then escape the roof on the right;
c) ... was a little too spicey, climb like 'b' except escape the roof on the left.

Disclaimer: I have neither done 'a' nor is my advice always well thought out. ;-)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : South Organs : Achenbach Canyon : Easy Street (5.6)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Forrest,

I'd suggest deleting the photo of the anchor but keep everything else ... the photo because others new to the realm might think the knot is an acceptable practice. With everything else as it stands for this route/crag, it has some service to the community in that it will caution others considering a climb in the area.

By the way, a lot of us are cheering for you in your adventures. You have a rare spirit and it reminds many of us of our younger selves.

Best Wishes,
Bill


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Murphy Creek
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: About the length of the approach hike on the trail ...

The second edition of Tuolumne Free Climbs also indicates 1.5 miles. We checked by hand-held GPS and it is more like 0.8 miles. That and the cliffs are then only obvious at specific points on the trail.

... not that I'm whining. I enjoyed hiking around for a few hours that morning. :-)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cloud's Rest : My Favorite Things (5.10a) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Fabulously done topo. Very useful for following the route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Magical Mystery Tour (5.8 R)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: My partner and I aren't ones to climb such "Tuolumne R" routes. And we wouldn't have climbed this one except for a hysterical mistake in gathering beta - had a DIFFERENT route's comments which spoke of lots of pro and to bring a 4 inch piece to protect the bulge - NOT! Had about four times as much of a rack as was needed.

Timbo Stillinger's comment is worthy to consider.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cloud's Rest : My Favorite Things (5.10a)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route for experienced leaders. Much thanks to Hannah North, Tom Harper, and Tom Malzbender for their effort in establishing it. On 31 July 2013, we did the route as a threesome with the "seconds" climbing concurrently. And we rotated leads so each had one third of the leads. This pattern also gave each a 20-30 minute non-busy rest every third pitch without a break in the pace of the team. Maybe this is familiar to many.

Left Tuolumne Meadows campground around 3:40 AM. Afte... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : North Rabbit Ear : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: By the photo, it appears to be a complex face. And reading topos is a black art. If you get back on it, send an update! :-)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : North Rabbit Ear : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: It's a good question. I started in one spot but then all the puzzle pieces of the Hand Jive topo didn't fit.

Here's a line that seems to work with the topo; warning: never been up there. Looks like a cool line.



Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Dirty Diagonal (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I think this is a great climb. Don't let the word "Dirty" in the name dissuade you from giving it a go!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Summer Dreams (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Found the hollow sounding boiler plates too worrisome. Instead, skirted just to the right of the bright yellow / orange lichen patch about 3/4 of the way up. See this Photo.

At the same time, it's a good route if the right line is chosen. Maybe this should be called Alpinist Tendencies. :-)


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Aspen Alley : Staircase to the Patio (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Agree. Same start as Blue Boy (aka Serendipity), including its crux. Then I suspect STTP finishes on either Analog Analogy or Digital Dilemma. I believe that the 5.9 rating of STTP comes from one of those two because the crux of Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) is attention getting but not 5.9 I think.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Sophmoric Sandbag (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Enjoyable route. Some loose rocks that will clean up with time. We set the belay back from the fall line which worked well (and sounds worse that it was). This is a good climb for a 5.9 leader.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Shoes for Industry (5.8+)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: There is now a bolted rap station that is very easy to find near the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope rap works but be sure to hang it by the middle. The bolted rap anchor is before the 6" juniper that has been used for rapping.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress
By: Bill Lawry When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: I sent a note to David M, asking if he had anything he'd like to post here about the routes.


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