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Member Since: Apr 16, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 372
Total Points: 1,542
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 807 | Routes 37 | Areas 16 | Photos 142 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 219 | Posts 181 | Stars 132 | Ratings 79
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: I was up on The Pulpit yesterday and took the below photo. Looks like the same aspect.

Photo


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Pulpit : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: No need to engage this way. Ascend cracks just to the left until can stem back across.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Speaking of descents, we also went down the west side of Pingora in order to traverse over Tiger Tower and Wolf's Head. This descent consists of roughly 75 feet of down climbing / down leading and then 4 or 5 raps. May need to replace slings on the rap anchors.

To start, locate the huge cleft that splits the west side of Pingora's summit. South of that cleft, find a way to down climb / down lead for roughly 75 feet to reach the first rap anchor which is inside a different and much smaller clef... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Regarding the crux pitch 7:

For most, it will seem clear which of several cracks is the "5.8 wide" option (i.e., the one on the far left).

There seems to be some question in the community regarding which of the other cracks is the 5.9 variation shown in most topos out there (e.g., the SummitPost.org topo ).

See this Photo for more discussion.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Southwest Face Right (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: We climbed this route twice using Kelsey's guide. The first time, we were off route about half of the time. The second time we nailed it. For us, the difference was knowing where to start the route.

Lynn S's description is accurate in words and in per-pitch ratings. At the same time, what would probably help here is a good picture of the SW Face with the route marked and/or familiarity with the starting ledge ... perhaps with some good route-finding intuition too.

I looked through m... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: We did that as a hand traverse as well - I think harder than the 1st hand traverse. 5.7 is fair.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: We climbed Pingora a handful of times on mostly different routes - we luckily had a long stretch of great weather. We saw people doing the descent in the photo but found the following modification worked very well ... very much reduces the rope snag factor plus reduces the number of raps whether rapping on one rope or two.

After the second "33 meter" rap in the photo, rather than "throw rope to the left (climber's right)", we made just one more ~50 meter rap (3rd rap) straight down over clean ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Dang, Karl. I think I've been off route all these years. ;-)


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Revenge of the Elderly (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: ~New 50 pound rap-rope catcher: It is in the 5.7 alcove var for P3 (i.e., the "crux chimney" in the above P3 description). It has now been moved back from the dirty lip where it had caught our rap rope. Would have trundled it except we had three folks at the tunnel.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: We did the descent link-up to the normal descent from Lotta Balls Wall. I do NOT recommend it as one slip rapping the offwidth / chimney could find you wedged in there. On the other hand, if you like adventure rapping then this may be the way for you.

Approach via the wash/stream bed. That way you have a better view of when one might start scrambling up. We came by way of the Lotta Ball approach, traversing across the base of Romper Room, and it was a little hard to be sure where to head up ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Unknown Trad (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: May 10, 2014

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Comments: Descent: One can rap to the bolted anchor at the top of P1 of Man's Best Friend. Then it is one more rap to easy terrain. One 60 meter rope works.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Found the rap anchor referred to by Alasdair, the ones that make it two clean raps to get down from the bowl. We easily reached them using double 60's. When rapping down the middle of the water stains, the bolted/chained anchor will be on climber's left.

Also, at the start of P1, I led the rightward wide-ish crack with right side in the crack: 5.7 or 5.8 and protection using the suggested rack was ok.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: Just a note that, reportedly, the ring piton of the shown P4 has pulled out and there is not any plans to replace it (there are other ways to climb the route). Not sure whether there is any other good protection assuming it is the piton I remember.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Frog
By: Bill Lawry When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: If taking the westerly gully, don't miss the ring piton in the brow of the huge chock stone.

And if you came down from the Crest and plan to descend from the summit by the more easterly gully (haven't tried it), consider leaving big packs nearer the bottom of the easterly gully. Am unsure exactly where that is but somewhere uphill from the metal sign should work.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Frog : West Ridge (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: P1: If you think your second might peel off in the lower half of the starting crack, consider belaying earlier to avoid him/her decking while using up 50+ meters of rope stretch. Top of the crack seems good for a belay but perhaps (not sure) there's something suitable a little further up.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Broken Ladders (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: The direct line (noted by Bill as the rap) has also been toproped. Start the same crack as broken ladders ...

Todd, Our rap with a 60m (doubled) ended quite a bit climber's right of the start of Broken Ladders ... ~25 feet maybe? I haven't tried rapping back to the start of BL and so am not certain a 60 will reach.

BL - great initials by he way. ;-)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: Inherently tree pro'd! :-)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Chris Wenker remarked about the westward descent that is south of Gertch: "It's the rappel stations in the south descent gully that will get your attention though."

Agreed! (as of 1 Nov 2013) And they are NOT readily/easily backed up but can be with some effort.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Great topo. We brought this on the route with us.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Great to see the way you did it, Forrest. A couple notes:

  • A 70 meter rope will reach from your "P7" belay (the "hanging" belay), over and up through the three rooflets, and then in a direct line straight to the top with little rope drag;
  • this Photo is worth taking on the climb.



Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: As Karl Kiser said, the rap bolts on the South Descent need replacement. As of 1 Nov 2013, the first rap anchor consists of two rusty 1/4 inch bolts (with chains) that are challenging to back up; the second rap consists of a single 3/8 inch (?) bolt which is also challenging to back up. We did the raps with a single 70 meter rope but believe a single 60 meter rope would be just fine. Also, be mentally prepared for a lot of relatively non-thorny bushwhacking above the raps: [[1084... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Broken Ladders (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: One can rap with a single 60 meter rope. But don't rap by following the route. Instead, follow something closer to a plumb line which eventually drops into a huge right-facing dihedral (climber's view).


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : King Me (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: True that the photo shows a lead going past where King Me exits to climber's left. Humbly, I think there is an argument here for not having any bolts in the chimney at all - even for the part that King Me uses.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crackula (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Maybe P2 can be thought of as the Gold-i-Locks pitch. If one climbed P1 and found that it ...

a) ... wasn't spicy enough, trend up and left to climb the obvious dihedral;
b) ... was just right, go ~straight up until can move right onto the face, go up, and then escape the roof on the right;
c) ... was a little too spicey, climb like 'b' except escape the roof on the left.

Disclaimer: I have neither done 'a' nor is my advice always well thought out. ;-)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : South Organs : Achenbach Canyon : Easy Street (5.6)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Forrest,

I'd suggest deleting the photo of the anchor but keep everything else ... the photo because others new to the realm might think the knot is an acceptable practice. With everything else as it stands for this route/crag, it has some service to the community in that it will caution others considering a climb in the area.

By the way, a lot of us are cheering for you in your adventures. You have a rare spirit and it reminds many of us of our younger selves.

Best Wishes,
Bill


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