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Member Since: Jun 18, 2009
Last Visit: Dec 4, 2013
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Point Rank: # 8,518
Total Points: 32
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 112 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 93 | Stars | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Creekside Wall : Downclimb Route (5.3)
By: bigwallrog When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: The new bolts on the Downclimb Route are lame. I have a hard time not
chopping them, they are clearly the work of someone who has dollar signs in there head i.e. guides. They're in a spot for top roping a 10' section of fourth class rock. It's not even 5th class despite what is written here....

I have refrained from nailing some routes here to preserve the rock,
but guess I can commence with nailing any route I wish, since it seems
anyone can do as they please in the canyon now.

It's funny to ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : White Twin : North Ridge (5.7 R)
By: bigwallrog When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: I agree much better to TR, this opens up the whole North Ridge for a whole lotta fun....
If you lead it, you're going to be placing gear in the only good holds until you get above the first ring angle pin.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Trigger Finger (5.9)
By: bigwallrog When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: 5.9 no plus needed and it's def NOT a 10a or even a 10 for that matter go a little farther left than you think than work you way back right....

That fragile flake at the stacked arrows, be kind to it.

I can barely get up 5.10 trad (working on changing that) and this route is a breeze for me, so there is no way in hell this is a 10.

A very fun route nonetheless.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Sidewinder (5.10-)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: Very nice OW climb. As for the grade, well, I realy can't say it has its tough parts and its easy parts....

Very nice climb and a good workout to boot.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) (5.11)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: The route might be 40 years old, but it's classic Turkey.

That's more than you can say for a bolted piece of poser fluff....

Very interesting climb that kicked my ass at the end of the day....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Cowboy Boot Crack (5.6)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: Well said England, I might add that the whole face up there is a nice place to spend an afternoon....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Pillar Climb (5.6)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: Stewart... I concur.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: Yep, this place is as well known as Cowboy's downtown or the local titty bar so deal w/it....

I found this place the first year I moved here. It was crowded then, and it's crowded now. Even if you were coming here for the first time, it's not too hard to find as there is usually 4 or 5 climbers cars parked on the road any day of the week or as England has said a van or two from the local guide service or the Fire Dept.

The lead only thing is in the crapper as well as even the Fire Dept. top ro... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Falls (WI2-3)
By: bigwallrog When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: WI2 is a stretch..... WI3 is fantasy. Two moves of poss WI2 at the top at best.

A fun place for laps, beginners, etc.

Very very crowded most days the are no less than 6 ropes hanging off this thing....

The upper left flow by the tree is a fun place to traverse L-R 'n' back
several times for max pump.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5) : Photo
By: bigwallrog When: Aug 16, 2009

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Comments: It's the top of pitch #1 jeezs no other belay on the entire climb has
a lost arrow piton as part of the belay setup.

For this to be pitch #3 you would have to have started in the creek
or I know maybe you started on grad boulder set up a zipline across the creek roped up for the -1st class scree ascent to the sub class 4
slab start belayed again here than proceeded to the aforementioned
p3 belay cool.....

HAHAHAHAHAH just funnin ya it's the top of p1 fer sure.

Nice easy climb, ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: bigwallrog When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Tried to climb this route today and would have made it if not for the wasps that stung the crap outta me about 2/3 of the way up 1st pitch. Don't know if there is a nest there as I didn't hang around for a look. The leader stemmed that section and had no problems.

Just a heads up on the hand jams in that area or if you're placing pro. Two other parties had no problems that we were aware of, but I had let them know, so I assume they stemmed across that area.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Creekside Wall
By: bigwallrog When: Aug 8, 2009

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Comments: Very nice area to climb the rock is ok and offers a lot of options for different gear placements, nice approach. Been teaching some friends the finer points of clean aid and I can tell ya that you will find a place for everything from ball nuts to hooks or cam hooks to threading old pins w/hero loops or hand placing sawed offs in old scars, it's all there.

One note if ya see an old f&^ *er up there TR-aiding something it's prolly me. If I'm on anything you wish to climb, let me know and I will ... more >>