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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13)
By: bheller When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The Huber variation boulder problem did experience some breakage... a large breadloaf like sloper broke off. It is probably solid v7 now. It can still be done, its just it may require a very commiting dyno and not offer a clipping stance before you soar. The Teflon corner is a water polished dihedral that requires crazy palm stemming and body english. Don't be afraid of it- once I chalked my palms REALLY well, I freed it right off... I did feel like I was going to fall the whole time though. I r... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Riverwalk Trail/ The Zi... : Freak Show (5.12 PG13)
By: bheller When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: As is, this climb is worthy of 3.5 stars for pitches 2,4,and 5. I suggest rapping after the arete (pitch 5) and this can be done with a single 70m.(above may require 2 60m ropes to rappel) With a bolt kit and a little more engineering, this could become another classic route that only requires a 70m rope. On the rappel, you should place gear to keep yourself close to the overhanging sections of the wall, otherwise you could find yourself out in space. Great job to Doug for the FA!!!
Have fun on ... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Gigantor (5.13)
By: bheller When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Tedd Thompson 89?
Spaced out bolts with SMC hangers- originally rated 13b.
Wolfgang Gullich got bouted on this climb during his visit.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Flirtin' Death (5.12-)
By: bheller When: Jul 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is typical LCC- not that good, but not that bad-1.5 stars. Bring a double length sling to equalize the way too spaced out bolts at the top of the 1st pitch-great belay ledge! The second pitch...Killer position! Two things- the first bolt on the 2nd pitch is not needed-great finger sized gear is found 3 feet left of the bolt. It seemed more natural to just climb the finger crack direct to the roof, instead of clipping the 1st bolt, climbing right, and then climbing back left to th... more >>
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall : Maple Jones (5.9)
By: bheller When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This canyon is WEST of the dry wall.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : JJ Memorial (5.13a)
By: bheller When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the farthest left "cave" route. It begins out the left side of the low cave on the ground, climbs more or less straight up skirting the right side of the small roof about thirty feet up, and shares its finish at the chains with Wicked Bender.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon
By: bheller When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: James, the canyon you refer to is West of the Dry Wall and it is known as Bear Hollow Canyon.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : The 11a (5.11a/b)
By: bheller When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of this climb may be "Something Must Break."
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Stop that Train (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes in the area. Excellent endurance oriented climbing. This should be considered the benchmark 12a for the echo.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Testosterone Test (5.11d)
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the first hard routes to usher in the wave of difficult climbing that would define the City of Rocks throughout the late 1980's and into the early 1990's.
The starting mantle was orignally refered to as the 10,000 calorie mantle, and the testosterone test refers to the committing crux moves negotiating the bulge protected by the Lost Arrow pin in a horizontal seam. I also recall placing a clever horizonal #4 friend that seemed like a key feel-good piece higher above the pin. Stick ... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't believe that with the correct holds the start is only 11a... its a V3 boulder problem to a short 11a bit until you get your fingers in the crack, then 5.10 to the top. Also, the top hardly qualifies as off-width- there are a few wide bits that one can reach right past with a little technique. As classic as they come.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c) : Photo
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crimp his left hand on is the opening move for Power Tools, that hold is not needed for Crack of Doom.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Columbian Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a bolt... and its not needed. The climbing is a bit frictiony and insecure for a 5.7 leader at this point, and I would guess the bolt was placed long before large cams were readily available. Who cares.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Asia
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this Asia crag with the route named Orient Express that Garrett is refering to is located in Pine Canyon. Pine Canyon is less than 1/4 mile east of the south-side of the frontage road parking that is used for the Dry Wall- it is the first canyon you encounter traveling east from the Dry Wall.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bear Hollow is the first canyon WEST of the dry wall, Pine Canyon is the first canyon EAST of the the dry wall. I think Garrett meant to write west. The approach directions are cyptic as well- the steep wall that hosts a number of routes (one of which is probably Maple Jones) is easily visible on your right as you look up from the mouth of the Bear Hollow. When you find the enormous redneck firepit, hike one minute up and right.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : 5.11 (5.11d)
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another goodie. Great pockets that keep coming up high. This route may be named Pocket Full of Trundles. 11b.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Trinity Right (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A LCC handbag at the grade of 12a. Easier than Mother of Pearl.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Vise Grips (5.11+)
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has been seeing a little bit of traffic these days- it is much cleaner now...give it a go!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : Photo
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo is not of Columbian crack nor of Elephant rock, the rock pictured is the Gallstone. This formation is about 100 yds southeast of Elephant rock.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard
By: bheller When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In reality this is no more than a 20 minute hike- 15 if you're fit. Not a big deal at all.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and A... (5.11d)
By: bheller When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm a little suprised you'd pack a pad up there. Whats easier for weaving through the narrow scrub oak? I vote for a 30 foot section of rope and a few cams!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Coyne Crack (5.11d)
By: bheller When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently there is no correlation between route length and stars awarded. This route is disappointingly short. MINUS AT LEAST ONE STAR IMMEDIATELY!:) This is like a low quality version of Yosemite's Butterballs. It is nice to actually climb a real finger crack in LCC.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It gets a lot better.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Sicilian (5.11)
By: bheller When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA- Scott Carson
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Dylan Wall : Blood on the Tracks (5.12)
By: bheller When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: route is longer than 60 feet...probably 80ft...50 meter should work.
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