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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact bheller


Point Rank: # 609
Total Points: 990
Last Year: 128
Last 30 Days: 56
145 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 729 | Routes 50 | Areas 5 | Photos 34 | Page Improvments | Comments 245 | Posts 77 | Stars 235 | Ratings 83
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Black Heart (5.12c)
By: bheller When: 2 days ago

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Comments: After reading the comments on the front page of the upper division wall, i am left confused about the actual name of this route! Too many routes squeezed here, but this one seemed like the purest line. I suppose it could be Bewildering Minute or Empty your Pockets or Black Heart...I feel inclined to say it is "Empty Your Pockets" (it is chalked as 12c at the start) but I will hold off on correcting it until someone else can chime in.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Sessions (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun, steep, endurance oriented route. Nearly 11a move after move all the way.

The quicklink attaching the fixed chain to the bolt hanger in the middle of the route (4th bolt?) is badly worn by the edge of the bolt hanger- its starting to get dangerous. I didn't have a wrench or a replacement quicklink, so I couldn't fix it. I'll fix it next time up there if nobody beats be to it, but beware!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Inspiration or Perspiration (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Check out the upper right corner of Nicola Masciandaro's photo under the Bombs Over Tripoli(12a) posting to see the finishing cracks and huecos of Inspiration or Perspiration?.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Broadloaves - North : Savage Attack! (5.10d)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I spied this line from the road and because it wasn't in the guidebook or posted, my friend and I thought were were in for a ground up traditional F.A. We even scoped the route with binoculars and somehow missed the two bolts and upper anchor! Nice work camouflaging those with paint! It would have went without the bolts, but it would have been a R rating. Perhaps this is a Shilling route... who knows? We just added our own name (Savage Attack!), but I'll gladly correct to credit the F.A. A few m... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Claim Jumper (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Yes, incredible position on the upper arete and awesome climbing. Skirting the crux requires climbing wayyy right of the arete, so I don't feel the finish is contrived. However, whoever bolted this line totally punted in two locations. The first is the runout above the second bolt where you get established under the roof- big nasty fall potential here (although unlikely)- and completely unnecessary. The second, and worse blunder of the two is the upper crux section- after clipping a really high ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : The Abyss (5.12c/d)
By: bheller When: Jun 26, 2014

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Comments: Seems pretty absurd for someone to suggest this is a 12c. Easy climbing to a V5, to a poor shake, to a V6 finish. Hard at 12d.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West
By: bheller When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: I think I remember hearing it was a 5.11. Haven't climbed it though.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Left Be Frank (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Good to know Martin, would you like to rename them?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Algorithm (5.12b/c)
By: bheller When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: A sublime route deserves a sublime write-up;)


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : Hammerhead (5.13b/c)
By: bheller When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: JP once remarked he felt this was the "best" route of the grade he ever established.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: bheller When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: -Justa-

I hope we can meet in the future. I think you will find I am not a high-horse riding, elitist on-slaughting, black-eye giving name-caller who banishes aspiring lead climbers from public lands. I in turn hope to discover you are actually not a
puerile ignoramus:)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: bheller When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: -Dear Beater-

If you are too inexperienced/ill-equipped to solve the T.R. problem you originally presented, take it as a sign that you may most probably lack the qualifications to "guide" your beloved friends and family up Rye Crisp.

Also realize that if you do set up a team toprope, (on a Saturday in high season???) you too would be imposing limits on others as a direct result of your "beliefs". This is climbing, not Nam, there are rules. I also suggest sticking with other more suit... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: bheller When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: I think someone keeps leaving a sling there because when the pin is clipped it cross-loads the biner on the rock. I usually just girth hitch the eye of the pin.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : The Crazy Train (5.13a)
By: bheller When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: There is evidence of freshly chipped holds at the start of this route. The top sides above some sloping cobbles have been enhanced to make the edges deeper. Stop it! Yes, the start is hard, and perhaps impossible if you are short. Winch start it if you have to! Boulder problem start begins with good holds for the left and right hands at the lip and your feet under the roof on the high shelves. Next comes a big, powerful move with the right hand to latch the back and left side of a distant oval c... more >>


Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Out of the Comfort Zone (V6)
By: bheller When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for setting the record straight Darren:)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Disco Duck (5.10a)
By: bheller When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Pay no attention to Boissal- he just likes to hide at height and pounch on the un-suspecting. Its his thing. For what its worth, I think Mexican crack has multiple 10a moves;)


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Green Acres : Photo
By: bheller When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Thats amazing that you saw it happen! Don't be too alarmed- look around, talus is everywhere, this process is always occuring. Bummer about Fairway to Heaven- it was a great route. I'm sure the recentand frequent rainfall was responsible for the collapse- lots of swelling clays at the Black Cliffs.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Grushenka (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: I agree the link into STT is great! It does feel a touch harder than the Grushenka standard finish as well (you don't get that softball rest cobble on the link). V6 to a rest, to 4 bolts of sustained 5.12a/b climbing, to the final STT V3 crux, to overhanging jugs. I think 12+ seems right for the link-up. Makes a great fitness route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : World's End (5.9 A4 X) : Photo
By: bheller When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Jon- You're stoned. ;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : The Riverside : ... : Jim (V4)
By: bheller When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Best finish is on the arete up and left. I remember doing this before the hold broke years ago, and finishing straight up, but the left finish is way better!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : The Riverside : ... : Shivers (V8)
By: bheller When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: The Midnight Lightning of LCC!

With careful pad placement and a good spotter, the mantle is totally safe. Full on 5.13 in difficulty, but it can be done safely. I watched one of america's best young boulders come off the top over and over again before sending. This was just after he had flashed other double digit problems in the canyon. (and he wasn't tired)


Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: bheller When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: With the exception of the Twin Sisters area and the upper elevation campsites (can't remember their names but they are the northern most sites) all major climbing areas are walkable from most any campsite- 40 minutes is probably the longest walk to get to an area you would come up against, and it would be a great walk. No bikes needed- the trails aren't overly bike friendly anyways.


Location: Bonneville : Random Climbing Pics : Photo
By: bheller When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Are you warming your hands?


Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Out of the Comfort Zone (V6)
By: bheller When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: I named this knowing full well the FA probably belongs to some Provo dude's girlfriend. If you know the details let me know...

I really enjoyed this thing and wanted to share it!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Scary Canyon : Boise Gunfighter (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Again, a great route! Scary canyon is ideal on sunny, calm winter days. When Matt and I bolted this line, the anchor had already been installed by and unknown party. It is listed as a project in the 2003 Boise Climbs guidebook.


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