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near trapps, Shawangunks, NY, 2008


Member Since: Jan 7, 2007
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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All (229) | Routes (31) | Areas | Photos (6) | Comments (51) | Posts (99) | Stars (42) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: bernard When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: Appears to be trailing enough rope to rig a small suspension bridge


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Anatolio (5.12c PG13)
By: bernard When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Location???


Location: AL : Steele : Banana Route (5.8)
By: bernard When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: The newest Watford guide has this route as "Banana Route"....and grades it fairly low.....5.6 maybe. Can't remember if there is a FA mentioned. I'll change the name here for consistency.


Location: AL : Steele : Stories (5.7)
By: bernard When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: very good. I'll presume that Chris did some research and that this is the route's true name. I'll figure our how to merge the two entries.


Location: AL : Steele : Stories (5.7)
By: bernard When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: It's estimated this route was first done back in the mid 70s. If you have it from a reliable source that this was the route's original name, dandy. If this is a name you've come up with on your own, i suggest researching before making your 'project' public. There is a description previously submitted. There are a couple of variations on the route that are not described.


Location: AL : Steele : Renegade Trad (5.13c)
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Mark Cole, Jeff Gruenburg......?


Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: advised to read and follow the instructions on use of the lowering/belay anchors just over midway on the route. With proper use, you should have no problem descending as long as you are using a rope manufactured in the last 40 years or so


Location: AL
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: stoked!

probably as much forgotten about the canyon as remains topical


Location: AL : Steele : Stepping Out (5.8)
By: bernard When: May 24, 2013

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Comments: Another Steele classic


Location: AL : Steele : Aura (5.12- PG13)
By: bernard When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: I always thought there were 3 distinct routes on the face between Monopoly and Bird's Nest......the left of the three being Aura, which was 10+/11- and the two to the right being harder

And any hardware on this wall is probably 30 years old or so......and should be replaced BUT THAT DOESN"T MEAN GO ON A BOLTING SPREE. How about one-for-one replacement?


Location: AL : Steele : Song of the Cows (5.11b)
By: bernard When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: the tree mentioned in the route description....that provided an escape if failing the opening moves......has died/fallen over. Stick clip the first fixed anchor. Crimpy, thin holds in the opening moves


Location: AL : Steele : Copout (5.9)
By: bernard When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: Great route....another Steele classic. Long.....sling anchors on tree on the right side of the crack as you top out. You can also build an anchor in various places along the top.

The piton-protected slab mentioned in the description is actually a variation where the climber would stay on the face entirely....and this variation is probably PG13/R. The original route follows the crack system.

Can range from prohibitively wet to just damp/mushy at the bottom, depending on season. This is ... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Graham's Crack (5.8)
By: bernard When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: try the route using crack only/jams only .....for an extra level of challenge


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: bernard When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Sugar Mag has its own, distinctive 1st and 2nd pitch......so it is confusing to read the submitter's description of starting this route by using the 1st pitch of Golden Arches. And the description of the opening moves doesn't comport with what i know to be the start of the 1st pitch of SM. Also, the route does not diagonal over to Monoply's anchors but instead continues vertically up the long face to the tree line. And the cliff section to the right of Monopoly is complex enough that i don't ... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Meathooks (5.13a)
By: bernard When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: The original name of this route is Meathooks and Memory

M. Cole/J. Gruenburg/C. Merchant......?


Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Originally the route had no bolts. A knifeblade was placed down low......near the first bolt (that was retro-placed many years later to augment it). You had to hitch a sling to the knifeblade because it wasn't driven into the rock all the way to the eye. Below the knifeblade and first bolt you can place a funky, sideways nut....or maybe get a cable-stemmed cam. The route pre-dates cabled cams. You basically did not want to fall until near halfway up the route where there are some solid plac... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Ginsu (5.11a)
By: bernard When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Lowering anchors added to Ginsu and to Full Moon.

One of the crag's nicer climbs at this grade

Upper 30-35 feet are trad - either the easily identified finger/handcrack......or the spicier pockets and slopers version to its left (anchors are over this finish but reachable by either).

Light to medium rack: small to med wires, cams 1/2-inch to 2 1/2-inch


Location: AL : Steele : Ginsu (5.11a)
By: bernard When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: Tall....airy....scenic. The elevation of the ginsu feature (~12 foot serrated-edged flake/column) corresponds to a fractured and weakly-cemented sandstone layer that runs through the cliff at this height.....so climb discretely here


Location: AL : Steele : Unnamed area below and left... (5.9+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: this wall is immediately to the right of the cave feature that has the routes Evil Is and Jolly Roger. That cave feature is fairly obvious. This wall is also below a terrace where the start of the routes 5.8 Corner and Rustler are located.


Location: AL : Griffin Falls : Wisteria (5.7)
By: bernard When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: there are maybe three distinct and similar routes in this zone


Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: the route name is the name of a novel by Thomas Pynchon....and also there is a forest of grapevines midway on the route you have to tip-toe through


Location: AL : Steele : Dead Reckoning (5.10c)
By: bernard When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: this route existed for a very long time as a high quality trad route. don't know who added the fixed gear but in my opinion it should be removed and rededicated to another project

Also.....I believe it's longer than 60 feet


Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: leader climbs the route and gets lowered to the station that is a little above midway on the wall. from there leader now belays second to top of route then lowers second to station where both can rap or be lowered to the ground safely. if the second prefers to lead the route, lower the initial leader twice, once to the midway station where the rope is pulled from top anchors and then rethreaded through midway station anchors so that the initial leader can be lowered or rap to the ground and th... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Modern Day Pirates (5.11a R) : Photo
By: bernard When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: in this photo, Modern Day Pirates follows features that roughly align with the large, panhandle flake kind of feature that is under the roof near the bottom of the cliff (not all the way right, into the dihedral). To its left is Flying Circus (.12+).....steep face climb more near the arete to the left in the frame than near MDP. And on the arete proper is Tech Noir (.12-)


Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 24, 2012

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Comments: route has an .11c extension that finishes more or less straight up from the main portion of the line. Original route trends right across top of Meathooks. Also bolts were added down low, diluting the burly style the route was originally climbed in.

'Wa' is apparently (or so we were told at the time) the Japanese word for wisdom.

Great route


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