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near trapps, Shawangunks, NY, 2008


Member Since: Jan 7, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,486
Total Points: 419
Last Year: 78
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 259 | Routes 32 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 117 | Stars 43 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AL : Steele : Resistoflex (5.12)
By: bernard When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: began and was for many years a proud trad route


Location: AL : Steele : Deborah (5.10 PG13) : Photo
By: bernard When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: this image shows 5.8 Corner, the route that is left of Rustler. Deborah is 30 yards to the right of this location


Location: AL : Steele : Hob Knob (5.10-) : Photo
By: bernard When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: This rope is hanging almost exactly between Wrangler and Deborah. Hob Knob is 75-100 yards to the east (right).


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8) : Photo
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: seems like the true start to SM is to the right of the lower portion of the dashed line in this photograph. See my comments in the route description section


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Those are even more confusing comments.

The route as I have known it from the early 1980s, begins on a slab feature, ascends steepening rock beneath a handcrack (the handcrack is your target at the beginning of the route....but a slabby section followed by a steeper section precedes it for 25-30ft. The route does not begin in a corner or dihedral feature), which is gained and then tops out on a ledge, and which is followed by a slabbish scramble up and left a bit and into a little nook. That'... more >>


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Photo
By: bernard When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: tried to solo that one time.....chickened out


Location: AL : Steele : Butter D Licious (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: bernard When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: does that lens have a zoom?


Location: AL : Yellow Bluff
By: bernard When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: The one time I've visited since the SCC secured the property I noticed that several of what were originally trad routes had bee retro-bolted, unfortunately. Two or three that i'd done, anyway. Too bad. They were some proud trad lines


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: bernard When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: Appears to be trailing enough rope to rig a small suspension bridge


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Anatolio (5.12c PG13)
By: bernard When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Location???


Location: AL : Steele : Banana Route (5.8)
By: bernard When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: The newest Watford guide has this route as "Banana Route"....and grades it fairly low.....5.6 maybe. Can't remember if there is a FA mentioned. I'll change the name here for consistency.


Location: AL : Steele : Stories (5.7)
By: bernard When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: very good. I'll presume that Chris did some research and that this is the route's true name. I'll figure our how to merge the two entries.


Location: AL : Steele : Stories (5.7)
By: bernard When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: It's estimated this route was first done back in the mid 70s. If you have it from a reliable source that this was the route's original name, dandy. If this is a name you've come up with on your own, i suggest researching before making your 'project' public. There is a description previously submitted. There are a couple of variations on the route that are not described.


Location: AL : Steele : Renegade Trad (5.13c)
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Mark Cole, Jeff Gruenburg......?


Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: advised to read and follow the instructions on use of the lowering/belay anchors just over midway on the route. With proper use, you should have no problem descending as long as you are using a rope manufactured in the last 40 years or so


Location: AL
By: bernard When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: stoked!

probably as much forgotten about the canyon as remains topical


Location: AL : Steele : Stepping Out (5.8)
By: bernard When: May 24, 2013

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Comments: Another Steele classic


Location: AL : Steele : Aura (5.12- PG13)
By: bernard When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: I always thought there were 3 distinct routes on the face between Monopoly and Bird's Nest......the left of the three being Aura, which was 10+/11- and the two to the right being harder

And any hardware on this wall is probably 30 years old or so......and should be replaced BUT THAT DOESN"T MEAN GO ON A BOLTING SPREE. How about one-for-one replacement?


Location: AL : Steele : Song of the Cows (5.11b)
By: bernard When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: the tree mentioned in the route description....that provided an escape if failing the opening moves......has died/fallen over. Stick clip the first fixed anchor. Crimpy, thin holds in the opening moves


Location: AL : Steele : Copout (5.9)
By: bernard When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: Great route....another Steele classic. Long.....sling anchors on tree on the right side of the crack as you top out. You can also build an anchor in various places along the top.

The piton-protected slab mentioned in the description is actually a variation where the climber would stay on the face entirely....and this variation is probably PG13/R. The original route follows the crack system.

Can range from prohibitively wet to just damp/mushy at the bottom, depending on season. This is ... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Graham's Crack (5.8)
By: bernard When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: try the route using crack only/jams only .....for an extra level of challenge


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: bernard When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Sugar Mag has its own, distinctive 1st and 2nd pitch......so it is confusing to read the submitter's description of starting this route by using the 1st pitch of Golden Arches. And the description of the opening moves doesn't comport with what i know to be the start of the 1st pitch of SM. Also, the route does not diagonal over to Monoply's anchors but instead continues vertically up the long face to the tree line. And the cliff section to the right of Monopoly is complex enough that i don't ... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Meathooks (5.13a)
By: bernard When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: The original name of this route is Meathooks and Memory

FA: M. Cole/J. Gruenburg/C. Merchant......?


Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Originally the route had no bolts. A knifeblade was placed down low......near the first bolt (that was retro-placed many years later to augment it). You had to hitch a sling to the knifeblade because it wasn't driven into the rock all the way to the eye. Below the knifeblade and first bolt you can place a funky, sideways nut....or maybe get a cable-stemmed cam. The route pre-dates cabled cams. You basically did not want to fall until near halfway up the route where there are some solid plac... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Ginsu (5.11a)
By: bernard When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Lowering anchors added to Ginsu and to Full Moon.

One of the crag's nicer climbs at this grade

Upper 30-35 feet are trad - either the easily identified finger/handcrack......or the spicier pockets and slopers version to its left (anchors are over this finish but reachable by either).

Light to medium rack: small to med wires, cams 1/2-inch to 2 1/2-inch


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