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Member Since: Apr 5, 2002
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 912
Total Points: 681
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 299 | Routes 25 | Areas 2 | Photos 56 | Page Improvments | Comments 121 | Posts 71 | Stars 24 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Golden Hall : Rain on the Mountain (5.13a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the feedback, J.A.; good to hear you enjoyed the route.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Bernard Gillett When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: I'm thinking it would be wise to talk to the homeowner just west of Scout Slab before reinstalling the bolts. As noted in my guide, it is my understanding that Scout Slab lies within the boundaries of the aforementioned homeowner's property. I don't know who is responsible for the removal of the bolts, though I very much doubt Tony had anything to do with it (they've been gone for over two years, as reported by MP user Clare Shemeta in April of 2011). In the event that the home owner removed ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fang
By: Bernard Gillett When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: NORMAL APPROACH TRAIL TO THE FANG IS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC

When I wrote my guide to the St. Vrain Canyons, I met the owner of the parcel of land through which the Barking Dog Trail runs; this is the normal approach trail that is described on this page and described in my book. The owner contacted me recently asking for my help in getting the word out that the trail is no longer open to the public. He has been generous for many years in allowing people to traverse his land to reach Th... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Unleash The Lions (5.7)
By: Bernard Gillett When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: GBW: I've got no problem with you adding a rappel station at the end of pitch 2 if you can find a good location. I'm certain the other people involved in the 1st ascent wouldn't mind, either. You might want to budget some time clearing loose rock from the 2nd pitch to make sure pulling down the rope won't also pull down a bunch of rock.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : El Camino Real (5.12c)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Hi Scott—the bolts were added after the aid ascent. It used to be an A3 pitch, the first pitch of an old aid route called Fair Weather Friends done in 1980 by Bob Bradley and Aaron Walters. I became interested in a free attempt in 1992, and led the route on aid to some fixed gear on Corner Pump Station, which is the 2nd pitch of Fair Weather Friends done free; we rappelled from there. We placed (and cleaned) a few pins on the aid ascent (KBs and LAs), and encountered one fixed pin, ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Riding with the Ravens (5.11)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: TR Variation
Once the rope is through the anchors, you can top rope the right-facing dihedral just left of the route (and immediately right of Witchway Arete) to gain the big roof, and then follow the roof line (a few moves of mild 5.10) to the crux moves on Riding with the Ravens.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : That Hideous Strength (5.11)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Feb 26, 2011

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Comments: Hey Phil - I agree that there are still a number of good short pitches and variations available at Lumpy Ridge (I certainly have a few more in mind that I'd like to do in the next 20 years). I would be surprised; however, if someone unearthed a long multi-pitch crack climb; there just aren't that many left. Maybe out at Sundance....

I'll be interested to see how people regard this pitch -- spring is just around the corner and with it Lumpy Ridge season. Get after it!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : The Petit Gully (M5+)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jan 17, 2011

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Comments: Hi, Chris - you asked for help regarding the FA info. I'm pretty sure Harry Kent and Keith Lober (?) did a winter ascent of Petit Grepon in preparation for (or around the same time as) their winter ascent of the N Face of the Eiger (I think they were the first Americans to do that face in winter; something like that; this would have been maybe back in the early '80s). Or maybe Kent and Donahue (the elder) were the ones who did the Grepon (it was definitely Kent and Lober to... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can...
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jan 6, 2011

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Comments: Hi Dave and Slim,

I wish I could help you out with some good hints on how to find Journeyman Crag; as noted in my guide, it is a bit difficult to locate the first time. It's been a while since I last visited, so I'm not even sure I could find the "trail" I used to approach it when I was writing the guide (though I'm confident I could find it eventually just because I have a general sense of where it is). Old maps show the old roadbed traveling up from the creek to the pass behind Co... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall
By: Bernard Gillett When: Dec 9, 2010

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Comments: I found a climbing helmet at the base of December Wall today (Dec 9, 2010). It appeared as though it has been there for a while (though likely less than 1 yr) -- leaves and pine needles in the helmet, and even a dead wasp. The webbing straps need a bit of work; looks like a rodent may have nibbled on them. Send me a message if you'd like the helmet returned.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : George is Phat (5.11)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: If you have my guidebook to Lumpy Ridge, turn to page 70 (2001 version), or page 66 (1993 version). There you will see that I marked the more difficult version of the second pitch on George's Tree as "5.10c OW." I don't know where that came from (a blunder on my part), but that section is as far from OW as you can get (the crack does get wider higher up, so maybe that's my excuse). Scratch out the OW, and revise the description as well.

In any event, that section is a thin, awkward crack tha... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : ... : Photo
By: Bernard Gillett When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: A more recent topo is provided in the pictures below -- tried to replace this one with the new one, but wasn't successful.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Broadmoor (5.10b)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: A new three-pitch finish was added to this route on 9-18-10 (The Stanley Hotel finish, 5.11), resulting in a 7-pitch route to the summit. See revised description above.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Golden Hall : Wiggle Room (5.10c)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 21, 2010

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Comments: You'll notice an empty bolt hole right of the single bolt belay on the ledge beneath the climb. My intention was to install a double bolt belay, but I ran out of juice. Clip the first protection bolt with a long sling as you rappel if you want to incorporate that into the belay. If I get up there with a drill again, I'll finish the job.

Also note that it may be feasible to access this pitch from the top of Richard Wright's Violet Blue, which would turn that route into a summit climb. I'll... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Golden Hall : Big Horn (5.10a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 23, 2010

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Comments: The #2 Camalot protects an easier stretch between the final two bolts; it's a funky placement in a shallow horizontal crack. I could imagine popping in a bolt in that location if folks dislike the current set up.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Golden Hall : GBD (5.11d)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: A very nice pitch with a unique finish, and a fine position high above the deep gully separating the main and left buttresses at Mary's Bust. It feels like you're topping out on a much bigger face even though the route is only 75-80 feet long. You can place a #0.5 Camalot at the beginning (unclip after getting the first bolt). There are nine bolts, with a continuous crux section between bolts 5 and 8.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Golden Hall : Rain on the Mountain (5.13a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: I'm not sure about the difficulty rating on this pitch -- someone who climbs at this grade on a regular basis will have to chime in. Seemed plenty hard to me, but I wouldn't argue with someone who called it 5.12d (or even 5.12c). Then again, things always seem easier after several redpoint attempts, so maybe my first impression (very hard) is reasonable.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Tick Rock : Arachnophobia (5.4)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: This is an excellent route with awesome knobs and rock texture. It seemed significantly easier than, say, Organ Pipes (on the Twin Owls, 5.6). Maybe 5.3? 5.4? Perfect kid route, as long as they can get up the nasty gully approach, or a great first lead for adults (well protected).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jun 5, 2010

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Comments: Bill, I had not yet learned of Justin's untimely death; sorry to hear about that.

It'd good to know that you have a clear memory of naming the route. My memory is muddled on the issue, and I suspect you're correct that the name was floating around Estes Park and that's how I came to know of it, perhaps through Mike Caldwell.

I think I have a copy of Roger Weigand's "Fisherman's Guide to Gibralter Rock" (I went to school in Madison and climbed at Devil's Lake, Gibralter, etc. as mu... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for filling in the lost history, Bill. I will certainly correct my guidebook if I write an updated version. I looked back in my records (I've written down the climbs I've completed since I was a lad), and found a few interesting entries:

7-10-87 Airy Arete* 5.8 (TR with Robert on "Fin Rock") [*Now known as Edge of Time]
[We also did 4 other routes that day, including the face left of Edge of Time (TR), which I published as East of Eden, and the route that is now known as Androlog... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Red Tag (5.11d)
By: Bernard Gillett When: May 18, 2010

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Comments: Minor clarification: Roger and I did the probable FFA. While writing my St Vrain guide, I learned that at least two parties had TR'd this route before the bolts showed up; never did find out who placed the bolts (anyone know?).

Dan, it may be wise to designate this route as a trad/sport route: It's 40 feet between bolts 1 and 2, and gear is essential for a well-protected lead.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Proud Mary (5.12c)
By: Bernard Gillett When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: Stephen: I don't believe the 3rd pitch has been climbed free yet. I suspect your confusion arises from Cale's post. What he is describing is the 3rd pitch variation that I mentioned in my post: climb through the first several bolts of the 3rd pitch on Proud Mary, and then traverse right to the anchors on the top of Brown Palace's 3rd pitch. Done this way, the pitch is 5.10, and it avoids the last 4 or 5 bolts on Proud Mary; it also allows one to continue up the wall on the last 3 ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Continuity Crag : BG's Corner (5.7)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: Bodypainting: just for clarification, I did not climb this route the days I spent at Continuity Crag, so go ahead and claim the FA if you'd like (I know of no one else who's done it), and name it whatever you wish (BG's Corner is fine with me, though all I did was look at it -- glad to hear it's as nice as I imagined it would be).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Continuity Crag : Mui Bajo (5.12a/b)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: Nice! I was wondering if anyone would stumble upon this crack after I posted the info for Continuity Crag; I found it after wondering far up the hill to some of the other rocks in the area. Bp, let us know when you complete it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: Hi Scott and Joe - If this route gets renamed, I won't shed any tears, though I don't believe Huggins, Morrison, Hirt and Hague did the FA. Mason Frichette and Craig Lightburn climbed the route sometime in the mid-late 1970s. Frichette climbed all over Dec. Wall with various partners, and my research indicates they beat Huggins and company to this route and several others on the wall by several years. I had a long (several months, even stretching into a year) email exchange with Mason and Sco... more >>


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