Contributed Comments |
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: berl When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich- you climbed it at one of the best times of the year for friction: on a cool dry day after there's been enough rain to wash off all the grease and chalk from the summer. Late summer is a different story!
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Location: OR : Pete's Pile
By: berl When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: this area was published in the 2006 Falcon guide for Oregon- check google books if you don't want to pony up for the paper version.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Cod Rock : Butter Knife (5.10d)
By: berl When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the latest Watts book has this at 5.10c
the crux isn't harder than that, but it involves a little more commitment than just climbing straight between the bolts.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Hammer, The (5.9)
By: berl When: Jun 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I find the little slab above the handcrack to be the most thought-provoking... the thought usually being something like "get some gear in now because otherwise you're looking at a fall or swing onto the ledge at the base of the handcrack."
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Pony Express (5.6)
By: berl When: Dec 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also tried this thing in approach shoes a few years back. I remember thinking at the time that it seemed like gear went from about 2" and up, not up to 2". maybe that was all the moss talking.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : Photo
By: berl When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: alpenglow!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Mud Pile : Rampage (5.11b) : Photo
By: berl When: Sep 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: that is some serious telephoto! nice shot
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Photo
By: berl When: Sep 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: what route/area is this?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Photo
By: berl When: Mar 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: not really. the monument area is on the left, staender ridge is on the right and the marsupials are out of frame to the right.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Tammy Baker's Face (5.10c)
By: berl When: Feb 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: is it true that a single 60m rope will NOT get you to the ground from the end of the first pitch? I saw some folks having some trouble there once for this reason. can anyone confirm this?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: berl When: Jan 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: also, peking is rated 5.8 here on MP and everywhere else.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Snake Rock : Cling On (5.9)
By: berl When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: not sure what you would do with only 2" gear once you get to the pockety stuff... you either have to get (larger) gear in behind the flake or run it out to the bolted anchor on top of the ledge.
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