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Member Since: Aug 23, 2009
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact bergbryce


Point Rank: # 3,873
Total Points: 111
Last Year: 56
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bergbryce been climbing?










Contributions


All 443 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 233 | Stars 159 | Ratings 15

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Luther Spires : Luther Spires (crag) : Jacko (5.10b)
By: bergbryce When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: I'll have to try this route again, but it really left a bad taste in my mouth. Two bolts on a nice thin hand crack, the 4th bolt gets in the way of crux footwork, making the crux even more awkward and a strange anchor placement.

Something useful about the route... you can TR the corner below the anchor, it's steep and a bit thought provoking for a few moves. Not sure about the big block in the corner 3/4 the way up. I did not pull on it that hard. I think this is the climb Wacko(?)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : MysterZ (5.7)
By: bergbryce When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a quality route and a fine memorial to your friend Zack.
I did not see any fixed gear on the route. Aside from the final pitch of real climbing (pitch 6 in the topo shown here) the rock quality was good. That pitch was a bit crumbly but easy climbing, but basically no pro until you exited the chimney/wide crack. Nothing really felt 5.7 to me either, the stemming over the bush seemed really casual.

I agree that there are definitely some sections of sparse or no pro an... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Luther Spires : Luther Spires (crag)
By: bergbryce When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: The Supertopo guide lists a climb just to the left of Mixed Emotions called Ringlock. It's supposed to be a 10a bolted line on the same spire as Mixed Emotions and See Thru. I've looked for it a few times and haven't been able to find it. Am I missing something or is this an error in the book? thx



Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Buttress : Orange Sunshine (5.9)
By: bergbryce When: Jun 2, 2012

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Comments: Great climb.
The first pitch was a bit disappointing, the second was very good. Had originally planed to climb Orange Book to the top but when we got to the first belay and saw that incredible looking crack, had to go for it. I personally thought the first pitch corner was more difficult (awkward) than the second pitch crack. It was like insecure jams vs. sinker.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: bergbryce When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: Above the chimneys felt like sustained, steep 5.6/5.7 climbing with maybe 2 very short sections of 5.8 and has more bolts than really needed, there are holds and gear options just about everywhere you look. The chimneys are the show stopper though, absolutely incredible climbing. First team on at sunrise, back at the car by 2 pm.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Lean And Mean (5.9)
By: bergbryce When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: This route seemed really un-inspiring. I was really cold however. Got to try it when it's warm.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : West Buttress : Pickin' It (5.9)
By: bergbryce When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: If you move up and left after the first bolt for a couple moves on large features, then stem right towards the second bolt, you can avoid the tricky 5.9 smearing and keep the climb at the 5.7 grade without too much hassle.
Using this variation makes for a good lead for a new leader on slab.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: bergbryce When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: (beta alert!) I'm 5'8" and if you find the foothold for the left foot on the face, the start is 5.8. I didn't find it the first time I pulled up into that slot.

There were 3 or 4 mantles on the first pitch that were way more heads up than anything on the 2nd pitch which seemed really casual.
This route was way better than I expected.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Buttress : East Ridge Route (5.7)
By: bergbryce When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Great climb, with lots of options. You can choose your own adventure and make it as difficult or easy as you'd like.
You can also stop after 3 pitches at the top of what I'd call the "East Summit". The climbing after this is un-memorable, requiring a long ridge traverse and a short pitch of 5.7 on poor quality rock that adds length and complexity to a descent.

(Warning, beta alert)
Had to kind of look around for a good place to start, this required walking around the right end and looking fo... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Raspberry Arete (5.7)
By: bergbryce When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: I don't recall there being much 5.7 on this. Mostly easy 5th class with maybe a 5.7 move off or near the start. A fun route nontheless.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: bergbryce When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: One of the best routes on the highway.
Dino Head is also one of the better crags with a fair number of harder bolted routes on good rock (for the Seward highway).


Location: UT : Parowan
By: bergbryce When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Thanks!


Location: UT : Parowan
By: bergbryce When: Jan 17, 2011

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Comments: Wondering how much climbing there is near Parowan? Lots more than is shown here?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages : West Face (5.8+)
By: bergbryce When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: These route descriptions are really great, but several of them do not mention what feature they are on. Based upon the overview photo, what piece of rock is this route on?? thx


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: bergbryce When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: This area takes a long time to get to and is difficult to reach?
An old road bed and 10 minutes of uphill scrambling is long and difficult?
More difficult than the gym approach, I'll give ya that.

I think Salamanizer has hit the nail on the head. This place is a real gem for exploration, you could spend days out here looking at all the possible lines and figuring out which ones go and which ones don't.
I look forward to heading back in there and exploring some more routes. A pretty cool... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone : Snowflake (5.8)
By: bergbryce When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Excellent route that gobbles up gear. Until the end when you have to run it out a bit on moss and mud left to get to the anchors. Good fun.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugar Bun : Make That Move Right Now Ba... (5.10d)
By: bergbryce When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: I thought this route was really cool. As mentioned, it's much longer than it looks from the bottom. You are in for a surprise once you pull the roof. The finishing arete is very cool looking and provides a memorable finish.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: bergbryce When: Apr 21, 2010

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Comments: I also recommend doing it in one pitch. The hoard of people at the base will appreciate that ;-) While it's a fun route, I didn't find it mind blowingly good.
I would recommend taking some big gear. I only had one 3" and wish I had a 4" as well.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Nurdle (5.8)
By: bergbryce When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Better than Bishops Terrace. Bring your entire bag of tricks. You'll need 'em.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Rated X (5.7)
By: bergbryce When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: To protect the flake, it would be nice to have a couple #4s and maybe even a 5 if you've got it. I had a 3 and a 4 which worked but two 4s would have been better.
There is also a bolt near the top of the flake below the lieback exit sequence. This could be protected by a #5 so I was a little surprised to see this bolt there, but I definitely clipped it!
There is a three bolt belay station above the flake that does not lend itself to belaying the second pitch very well. It's better... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Desire (5.9)
By: bergbryce When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: Don't cheat on the start! A high step w/ the left foot off a good right foot on the corner is all you need.
You can get gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt but the ground above the crack to the 3rd bolt is easy.