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Member Since: Mar 21, 2008
Last Visit: 6 mins ago
Contact BenL


Point Rank: # 2,066
Total Points: 271
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BenL been climbing?










Contributions


All 171 | Routes 17 | Areas 4 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 31 | Posts | Stars 78 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: BenL When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: the b. o. d. pitch felt like 13a to me, honestly. for example, the first hard pitch on final frontier is rated 12d and significantly easier while similar in style...

what a route. maybe the best of its length i've ever done..


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: BenL When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: I think you should have asked the first ascent party. Retrobolting is super lame.

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2189062/retro-bolting-color>>>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Never Never Land (5.9 A3)
By: BenL When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: agreed about the crux pitches. the rest is pretty mellow.
but i think that if you're new to aid climbing you'll get up the zodiac because you can always see what to do for each placement and everything is really clean and super fixed with slings, pins, etc.
nnl seemed harder to me because it is much fresher with more weed and stuff and less obvious climbing and maybe a bit more grainy/loose things.

i think if you can climb harder routes than nnl or zodiac, than they may seem more like similar... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Never Never Land (5.9 A3)
By: BenL When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: definitely a lot harder than zodiac or ttrip(A2). a full grade imo.
wouldn't link the two pitches above hammerdom.
great route description and overall page, thanks.


Location: International : Europe : Luxembourg : Berdorf : ecossaise (5.12a)
By: BenL When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: the start off the block is pretty difficult, then it is straightforward apart from a long move at the end.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Autobahn (5.11+)
By: BenL When: Feb 15, 2011

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Comments: the bolts have been replaced according to a supertopo thread.
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1239761&msg=1>>>
does anyone have pitch lengths?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Shadows Route (5.10)
By: BenL When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: i liked the first pitch, but you need wide gear for the second pitch, and the bolts have not been replaced!


Location: International : Europe : Luxembourg : Berdorf : Photo
By: BenL When: Feb 21, 2010

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Comments: you got the best beer there.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: BenL When: Jan 16, 2010

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Comments: I do not think that taking all your stuff up to the top via the East Ledges is a very good idea. Better go a little lighter and quicker...
especially in the August heat going up there + rappelling seems like a waste of energy. And I think its wayyyyyy cooler to do start at the bottom not really knowing whats ahead of you...
but if you do the rappels, you get to Camp 4,5,6 and to Dolt. Not to sickle and not to El Cap tower, at least thats not the way its set up
We did it in August too. 1 gallon p... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Luxembourg : Berdorf
By: BenL When: Dec 17, 2009

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Comments: Nice! Thats good to hear. Especially if you're coming from SLC ;-)
Before it was one day permits that you got. Either that or a year round permit. But they are not very consistent when it comes to giving/refusing permits...
Have fun


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Ellery Bowl : The Speed of Life (5.11b)
By: BenL When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: AWESOME!!!
sooo classic. I agree that the 11b is normal for the grade.
The second pitch is one of the best pitches I've ever done.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Monster Skank (5.13b)
By: BenL When: Mar 24, 2009

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Comments: I agree with the above, this climb is worldclass. If you ever work a 13b, let it be this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Yaak Crack (5.11d)
By: BenL When: Feb 27, 2009

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Comments: nowhere near 11d...
very good climbing, steep and great holds!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Spring Break (5.11+)
By: BenL When: Feb 27, 2009

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Comments: I think this climb is 11d on lead, because you can't really rush trough it. The pro is very solid, but strenuous to place, no doubt.
Having a good endurance and taking his time with pro is KEY.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: BenL When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: alien are definitely useful, as well as TCU's. Anything small will do though. If it's hot, and you're no good at pure crack climbing, then the final pitch is going to be the crux, it is in the sun when you get there unless you're super fast and have an early start.
Every pitch is awesome, but the crux pitch and the one after it stand out.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Agent Orange (5.12b)
By: BenL When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: this is a sport climb. you don't need any gear.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: BenL When: Feb 6, 2009

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Comments: ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11)
By: BenL When: Jan 27, 2009

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Comments: I wouldn't call P5 R, the gear is thin but pretty good, bring aliens.
The climb is awesome. All pitches might not be 4 stars out of 4 but the location is just perfect, an pitches 1,2,4,5 are consistently amazing! Pitch 2 has some funky fixed gear.
get on it, really good outing when you're back from a bigwall and you aren't up for more hauling and want be on the big stone.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Cookie Monster (5.13b)
By: BenL When: Jan 27, 2009

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Comments: with all the bolts, I think the 1. pitch is on the really soft side of the grade. If this lieback is 12a, then Moratorium too felt like 12a for me, I guess 11c is more appropriate...
excellent sportclimb though!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: BenL When: Jan 27, 2009

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Comments: for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Secret 13 Wall : Where is My Mind? (5.13)
By: BenL When: Jan 24, 2009

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Comments: is this an open project?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Patracide (5.11a)
By: BenL When: Jan 22, 2009

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Comments: i'd say that it's actually pretty good. not worth going there as an end in itself, but if you go there for FF you might as well finish your day on this one, if you didn't warm up on it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Lower Cathedral Spire : South by Southwest (5.11a)
By: BenL When: Jan 16, 2009

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Comments: I guess this is more like 5.10.(edit:5.10c. 10 b would be a sandbag.)
Compared to Moratorium or the 5.11 pitches in the Nose the crux-pitch is pretty easy.
Fun climb though, and awesome view of El Cap on the summit , take your camera.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Hessen (Frankfurt) : Hainstadt (Breuberg)
By: BenL When: Jul 9, 2008

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Comments: there is tons of good sandstone in germany...

-elbsandstein (mostly trad)
-pfalz(sport/bouldering/trad)

are the best.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Second Sella Tower : Messner (5.10a)
By: BenL When: Apr 12, 2008

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Comments: this is a mega classic on some of the best rock you'll ever find in the area. 4 stars!


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