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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: Ben Ingman When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I broke a hold right above the 1st bolt on this route yesterday, which was probably the hold that most people clipped from. This certainly doesn't make the route any harder, I just wanted to get word out so people don't freak and fall when they find their usual clipping hold is gone. Be safe!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Ben Ingman When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If by treasure you mean little protection, waterfalls, moss, and loose rock - then yes. Plenty of treasure.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Ben Ingman When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm really surprised people rappel from the big ledge on this route. The final pitch up to the saddle was one of the best pitches of climbing with excellent position, the whole wall is below you! I would recommend the saddle descent - it's fine with just a bit of low exposure down-climbing.
Also, no matter how much you've dealt with exposure in the past, climbing out on that traverse will have you thinking about taking up golf. An unbelievable pitch! :D
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : The Gambler (5.11-)
By: Ben Ingman When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt on this route is laying at the base of the route (as of March 09). The route is still do-able for those comfortable at the grade.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Ben Ingman When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super Classic! Every single pitch is great, with varied climbing that follows an aesthetic and unique line. Pitches 3, 4, and 6 stand out in my mind - but all the pitches are great. Certainly not to be missed!
Pitch 4 and 5 (as described above) can be linked with a 60m rope if you take the chimney option through the "birth canal" - which seems to be the obvious choice.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Ben Ingman When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 70m gets you to the ground from the top anchors (just barely).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Running Man Wall : Running Man (5.11)
By: Ben Ingman When: Jan 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really one of the best pitches around. Worth all the hype. The bolts are placed well for the majority of this climb, with one run-out on relatively easy terrain (between the 2nd and 3rd bolt?). It would be easy to protect this section with a nut or TCU, but if you are attempting this grade it shouldn't be a problem. I remember bringing gear but not bothering to place it because the climbing in the run-out was easy.
However, Peter Croft thought a rope was unnecessary, so I guess it's all p... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Torrent Falls : Bandolier (5.11a) : Photo
By: Ben Ingman When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well done Z! Ditto what TM said.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Ben Ingman When: Dec 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be done in 2 pitches with a 60m. rope. Just be mindful of rope drag when linking p1 and part of p2 (place low, then high). There is a nice belay stance in the middle of p2 that will leave you with 2 feet of spare rope for the final pitch. Great line!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Sidewinder (5.11+)
By: Ben Ingman When: Dec 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's such a long pitch! Never lets up either. Excellent climbing on great rock, bring lots of gear!
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Straight No Chaser (5.11c) : Photo
By: Ben Ingman When: Dec 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks dudes! I blame the fall on Travis - just praying that I would fall so he could catch the pic of the whipper.
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall : Patent Pending (5.10d) : Photo
By: Ben Ingman When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a fantastic summit that was - and to get the FWA on such a classic line. Little known fact, Patent Pending actually goes at 5.8 C0 when it's below zero and you've had a PBR or two.
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Location: WA : Mount Rainier : Emmons Glacier (Mod. Snow)
By: Ben Ingman When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Reverend J. Warner Fobes, George James, and Richard O., 1884.
For more FA info, and a lot more beta on the route, see this.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Ben Ingman When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As I understand it, this was first done as a two pitch route. Anyone have beta on P2? Are there anchors up top? Does the rock stay good? Grade? Gear? Thanks!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pidgeon (5.11b R) : Photo
By: Ben Ingman When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice send and definitely a funeral shot!
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Air (5.6)
By: Ben Ingman When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the Whiskey A Go Go of moderate routes - excellent climbing, exposure, and view. Definitely one of Necedah's best routes.
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall : Nihilist (5.12a/b)
By: Ben Ingman When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did some holds break or get bigger on this route?? This used to be the hardest route on the wall for me. 12a/b?? That Travis guy is just Mr. Sandbag these days - what a jerk.
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Location: MN : Duluth Rock (Duluth) : Postpartum Wall
By: Ben Ingman When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I visited this area a few years ago and we had the hell of a day up there - great moderate bouldering! Good job putting it online dudes!
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Echoes Extension (5.13b)
By: Ben Ingman When: Aug 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Freed on lead by Travis Melin (2008). FFA I believe.
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Free Box (5.10)
By: Ben Ingman When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is only one real place for protection on this route (obvious thin crack for #1 and 2 TCUs and nuts), so sew this up and then run it to the chains. If you didn't place gear high in this crack (like me) there is a funky #3 C4 up high.
I gave this a PG-13 as the run-outs between gear get long (and I am a wuss).
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall : The Man In The Black Pajama... (5.13a)
By: Ben Ingman When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Lead - Travis Melin
(and it's G. Forge the 5th)
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall : Patent Pending (5.10d)
By: Ben Ingman When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has more history than it should: The local speed climb testpiece, the only Meader Wall route known to see a winter ascent (winter ascents only count if it's below zero degrees F) and the only known naked ascent of the wall.
Speed Record History (set on toprope, start behind the log, finish when the chains are slapped):
Ben Ingman 43 seconds
Colin Treiber 40
Travis Melin 38
B. Ingman 36
T. Melin 33
T. Melin 30.1
T. Melin 24.5
---Post route alteration speed records (set on toprope, s... more >>
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Pipeline Wall : Rocksteady (5.10+)
By: Ben Ingman When: Jul 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My 5'2" girlfriend found the roof (higher up) to be the crux as she could not reach the aforementioned slopers. I (5'10") found the crux around the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Party Wall : Perpetual Motion (5.11a/b)
By: Ben Ingman When: Jul 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is great. Be sure to extend pretty much everything with the traversing nature of this route.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Direct Petzoldt Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Ben Ingman When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Legendary!!
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