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Member Since: Jan 25, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,442
Total Points: 210
Last Year: 209
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Townsend been climbing?










Contributions


All 60 | Routes 17 | Areas 1 | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 25 | Posts | Stars 17 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Just for Goobs (5.7+ PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Other than being a bit dirty, this route is a New England classic. The rock quality is unexpectedly good! Four one-rope rappels down the route, watching the rope ends on the first two raps as they are both very close to 100'. The last rap anchor is an obvious spruce tree on a ledge to the right, about halfway down the first pitch. We replaced the anchor webbing on the top anchor, and on the tree.

We saw and heard peregrines, but from all available information (including signs at the cliff), th... more >>


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge
By: Ben Townsend When: 3 days ago

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Comments: As of summer 2014, the logging road that goes right off Railroad Bed East is in great shape. Drive in about half a mile to a clearing and park. A brush pile (with one piece of orange flagging) partially blocks the left fork of the logging road, which is discontinued and grassy. Hike down the left fork for five or ten minutes until a large boulder appears; the climbers' trail takes off to the right here, and is easy to follow.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Soylent Green Jeans (5.9+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Nice shady pitch for a hot day. Full value! About 180' total. I dragged up big cams for the anchor and ended up not using them, finding it much more comfortable to belay off small to medium cams and Tricams in the horizontal above the ledge.

We refreshed the rappel webbing. One 60m rope just makes it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Chocolate Tranquility Fount... (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Wonderful climb. The walk-off only adds to the experience, as it navigates easily through some very unlikely-looking terrain.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Senior Moment (5.5)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Very nice climbing. Apparently it has cleaned up a bit, as we had no issues with rock quality. An esthetic way to reach Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Bridge Mountain : Northeast Arete (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Six hundred feet of perfect finger to hand crack in a low-angle stemming corner; what's not to like? After an awkward move or two right off the starting ledge, it's pretty much cruiser alpine-low-fifth the whole way. We took a minimal rack and a single 60m X 8.5mm rope (tying in with bowlines-on-coils to eliminate harnesses), and climbed in approach shoes, all of which seemed pretty appropriate for the level of difficulty.

We approached via the north fork of Pine Creek Canyon, follo... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mother's Crag : Motorcycle Mama (5.5)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: The rap station on the tree is in good shape, with two screw links and fresh webbing. That is one sappy pine tree, though!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mother's Crag : Dream Girl (5.4)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Excellent little climb. In terms of technical difficulty, it's barely fifth class, but pretty much ideal as a training opportunity for a new climber to lead on gear -- clean, featured, lots of protection options.

When approaching the crag, it's worth going a bit further up the road (or the wash) to get a straight-on view. The line of the climb is pretty obvious from that perspective, whereas it's a bit hard to see from the base, or from the left when the crag is first visible.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Pincushion (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: We started up Chocolate Sunday and joined the upper pitches. Really fun climbing; if the rock quality were just a bit better, this would be a four-star classic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Chocolate Sunday (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Excellent pitch. If you follow the cracks on the left side of the lower slab, which seems like the natural line, the difficulty seems more like 5.5-5.6.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Hundred-Foot Stick Clip (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the old webbing on the top anchor. Slightly diagonal one-rope rappel (climber's left) reaches a pedestal and easy downclimbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Secret Ingredient (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Excellent pitch. Replaced the old webbing on the Hundred Foot Stick Clip anchor; a slightly diagonal one-rope rappel (climber's left) reaches easy downclimbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : Birdhunter Buttress (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: If the logistics weren't so daunting, this route should be as popular as, say, Ginger Cracks. The climbing is good, and the location is spectacular.

Currently, most of the bolts on the upper pitches remain vintage. However, I don't see that being a significant concern to anyone who's made it that far. There is a bit of loose rock, but nothing too extraordinary by Red Rocks standards.

We descended via the Brown Recluse rappels, which are convenient to the top of the climb, but which I dislik... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Xyphoid Left (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: No fixed nut on the top anchor. Replaced the old webbing with fresh cord around the block, plus a screw link. Removed the old webbing from the slung-block midway station. The rap from the top anchor is a full 30 meters -- watch the rope ends.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Byrd Pinnacle Left (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the jammed-knot backup on the top anchor with fresh cord around the block, plus a screw link.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Webster : Greens Chasm (5.6 WI3)
By: Ben Townsend When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Elegant climb. A couple of 2-3" cams are nice for the rock step. We didn't see any ice at all on the left above the rock step, but despite the very imposing overhangs and parasols, the ice on the right was only NEI 3 or maybe 3+ at most.

For extra adventure, we climbed a narrow tongue of crusty snow up the friction slabs below, then traversed back into the gully. No idea where we were in relation to the ice routes described in the guidebook; we were mostly just left of the rock route... more >>


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : Hidden Gully (WI3-4)
By: Ben Townsend When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a good climb to solo if you're comfortable on easy to moderate ice, though you want to watch for ice dams and unstable snow. I took the right flow at the top and continued up a narrowing gully until I hit the ridge line, then traversed down and right through the woods until I hit a (pretty inobvious) trail. The trail seemed to dead-end at the north end of a long narrow cave, but walking south through the cave brought me to the top of Easy Gully, which made for a straightforward descent.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pine Nuts (5.10b)
By: Ben Townsend When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: The second pitch is wonderful varnish climbing, and seemed a lot easier than 5.8. Easily reached from When a Stranger Calls, if you don't want to lead the first pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Chocolate Rocks : Shortcake (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: Seemed like there were a couple of 5.8-5.9 moves. We speculated that a key hold or two may have come off over the years. Sort of an engaging lead at the grade, as the gear is small and not entirely obvious.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Van Allen Belt (5.7 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: I got a good Tricam in a pocket just before the climbing got serious. After that, I don't recall any issues with the protection at all. Pretty easy for the grade. The pitch is just over 100', but a one-rope rappel works fine.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Oak Creek Canyon : Catwalk (5.6 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: What Brian said, except that his rope must be longer than mine. Seemed about 65 meters from the thread to the pothole, and about 70 meters from the pothole to the nice ledge above the bushes. The chimney pitch is about 150', depending where you belay, not 80' per the guidebook. Really fun, adventurous route, with an alpine feel uncommon for Red Rocks. We took a standard rack to #3, and never felt like the gear was problematic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : One-Armed Bandit (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Short, well-protected 5.7 cruxes at the start of the first pitch, and near the end of the last pitch. Otherwise, cruiser terrain with intermittent protection, occasionally on the fragile side. We took a #4 and #5 Camalot and placed them a couple of times; nice, but definitely optional.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Purple C3 is bomber for the start. The tree anchor at the top of pitch 3 (actually two trees and a fixed Lost Arrow) is OK but could use newer cord; we cut away some crusty old webbing that wasn't doing much, but it would probably take a whole 25' cordelette, which we didn't have, to do it right.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : When A Stranger Calls (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Wonderful climb. The start takes good protection in pockets. There is a large white triangular flake on the right about 20' up that is completely detached -- easy to avoid, though. Replaced the crusty cord anchor at the top of the first pitch on 10-29-2013.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pauligk Pillar (5.7+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb. The anchor at the top of the first pitch is cleaned up and in good shape -- currently three fixed nuts and two threads (one with beefy cord), all equalized with a tied-off cordelette and two rings.