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Member Since: Jan 25, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Ben Townsend


Point Rank: # 2,296
Total Points: 245
Last Year: 227
Last 30 Days: 15
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Townsend been climbing?










Contributions


All 91 | Routes 18 | Areas 1 | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 47 | Posts | Stars 24 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : Classic Crack of Calico (5.9+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: What a great climb! Sunny all day, and pretty sheltered from the wind until you top out. We did it in three pitches, plus moving the belay to the base of the last pitch. The descent gully is very intuitive, and extremely well cairned as soon as you find it.

I saw one bolt on the attractive face to the right of the first pitch; seems like it would be worth exploring.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Rad Cliff : Basilisk Fang (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: An elegant, easy climb. We encountered no loose rock to speak of. The Dementor rap is longer and brushier than one might expect from the guidebook.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Rad Cliff : The Fright of the Phoenix (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Elegant, airy climb. The looseness seems to have abated. The descent is a bit involved: go up, scramble left and down to a rap down a slab, then traverse back right through a tunnel and scramble down to another rap.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Magic Triangle (5.9 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: We replaced the jungle of old tat at the top of the first pitch with a solid static rope anchor and a beefy rap ring.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Sniveler (5.6 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Demonstrating the difference between "unprotected" and "tricky to protect," this climb gobbles up Tricams, offset Aliens, and other inobvious gear. I had solid pro at least every body-length. It's a gorgeous, somewhat unlikely-looking easy climb.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Car Talk (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: More a variation than an independent climb. Same high quality and stout moves down low as Doin' the Good Drive, then some thoughtful face climbing up high.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Doin' the Good Drive (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: Quality climb, stout moves.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunburn (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Doing the first five pitches, then traversing to the terrace and rapping the Solar Slab gully, turned out to be a great low-key, low-logistics outing for a short November day. We had sun all day except for a period of about 20 minutes when it briefly went behind the summit of Mt. Wilson.

Judging by the comments above, the route must have cleaned up a bit. The bushes have clearly been tamed, and we encountered no more loose rock than normal for any less-travelled Red Rock route.

P1-2: 180', 5.6... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Ignore the Man Behind the S... (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: A really good, well-protected easy lead.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Common Bond of Circumstance (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing. I placed two Aliens and two Tricams to supplement the bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Right of Flight Path Area : Cantilever Corner (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: This is an excellent climb with very continuous stemming. Sunny, sheltered, and warm. For full credit, start up the left side of the pedestal, instead of scrambling up the right side. Standard rack to #4, emphasizing finger-size gear; there's currently a cam (not ours) stuck just below the roof. The pitch is 110' long; a single 70 gets you to the ground, but a 60 should reach the top of the starting pedestal. One anchor bolt has a Fixe single ring, but the other just ha... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : The Ledger Crags : The Ledger (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: Sunny, sheltered, and warm. The rock quality down low leaves something to be desired, but it steadily improves with height. We did the right exit on the third pitch and found one 5.8-5.9 move getting up into the wide stem. Fun climbing, very well protected. The gully descent is long and engaging -- traversing high into the head of the gully keeps it pretty easy, though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : There and Back Again (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climbing, kind of a mountaineering feeling to it in spots, due to more loose blocks than usual for Red Rock. In the sun all day in mid-November.

The first pitch ("Knobissimo Slab" per the Urioste guide) must be one of the funnest easy trad pitches anywhere, sort of a kindergarten version of Armatron. Big ledge at the top of the slab, but the only available anchors are boulders that can be slung.

As of November 2014 there was a blue TCU (not ours) stuck in the second pitch corner. ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: As of November 2014, the rappels down Plate of Fate were set up with three two-bolt stations with rings, allowing for three one-rope rappels. The top station is lower than some people expect, judging by the tat left on the tree.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Rose Hips (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: Moderate adventure climbing at its finest! On the first pitch, a 70m rope is helpful for reaching decent belay stances. The top of the first pitch has some very thought-provoking climbing. Rope drag is a potential issue on every pitch, so running pitches together has limited value. The big traverse (start of pitch 4 per the description above, end of pitch 3 for us) is less obvious than it might seem from the description. Standard rack to #4 was fine, but I was wishing for more long slings ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: After the first half of the first pitch, which seemed incredibly burly and awkward even for "5.9+", the rest of the route was a delightful romp. Sherri's description above is pretty much dead on, except the third pitch is 115'. Anchor at the top of the first pitch is down to one bolt, which can be backed up -- there's also one hangerless stud and one empty hole.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Dodgeball (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Loved the climb, hated the brushy descent gully (our rope hung up twice). Thought the 5.7 rating was right on the mark.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Brews (5.7+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Way fun. Small wires are nice on the second pitch. I suppose one could find a place for a #4 somewhere on this route, but you'd really have to look.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Power to Waste (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: A really fun, mellow route to round out a day at the Lotta Balls wall. Rock quality seemed pretty good, pro is great (it could be led quite safely without the bolts), and way easy for 5.8 -- I could believe 5.7 or even 5.6.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : The Case Face : Space Case (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Seemed stiff for 5.7; possibly a hold broke? Currently there's a rap anchor consisting of several tied-off chickenheads, common to this route and Just in Case. Easily backed up with stoppers up and right.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Trihardral (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing. Some runout face on the third pitch; not super hard but makes you think. There's a bolt at the first belay -- not really clear why, as there's also a bomber thread (plus, considering the make-up of the FA party, it seems incredibly disrespectful). We removed a large amount of tat here. Doing the route in four pitches seemed to take advantage of the natural breaks in the climbing.


Location: ME : Camden Hills : The Rampart : Tense Mossworks (5.9+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: FA Alan Rees and Ben Townsend, finishing up the thin-crack corner on the left. The name is actually Tense Mossworks -- a lame play on Moss Tentworks, now out of business and apparently long forgotten, which was a maker of high-end tents located in Camden in the 1970s.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Just for Goobs (5.7+ PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Other than being a bit dirty, this route is a New England classic. The rock quality is unexpectedly good! Four one-rope rappels down the route, watching the rope ends on the first two raps as they are both very close to 100'. The last rap anchor is an obvious spruce tree on a ledge to the right, about halfway down the first pitch. We replaced the anchor webbing on the top anchor, and on the tree.

We saw and heard peregrines, but from all available information (including signs at the cliff), th... more >>


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: As of summer 2014, the logging road that goes right off Railroad Bed East is in great shape. Drive in about half a mile to a clearing and park. A brush pile (with one piece of orange flagging) partially blocks the left fork of the logging road, which is discontinued and grassy. Hike down the left fork for five or ten minutes until a large boulder appears; the climbers' trail takes off to the right here, and is easy to follow.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Soylent Green Jeans (5.9+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Nice shady pitch for a hot day. Full value! About 180' total. I dragged up big cams for the anchor and ended up not using them, finding it much more comfortable to belay off small to medium cams and Tricams in the horizontal above the ledge.

We refreshed the rappel webbing. One 60m rope just makes it.


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