Comments: Thanks, Ted. It's a bit weird to get into and super strenuous on the calves, but it certainly feels on-route and logical. Once we were shown, it felt silly to avoid it. Seems some people have used it and still thought 13d though, so who knows? There are at least 4 potentially no-hands rests on the route, yet it's still very possible to pump off the top moves....
Comments: This is probably my new favorite sport route in the Flatirons and perhaps the entire Front Range. It's steep and super fun with varied movement on cool holds, culminating with a crux at the very top. Fully deserves every bit of 4 stars. As for the grade, I'm not sure if the route holds at 13d if you use the (newly discovered?) no-hands rest below the upper crux. If you have strong calves, it's a very good rest, at least for your arms. I'd be interested to hear if this was used by previous a... more >>
Comments: The developers of this crag need to remove the coiled red rope that is currently fixed to the top of this cliff. Been there two years now. It makes climbers look like trashy bums. I'm all for development and don't mind fixed lines for a period of time, but finish your work and clean up your mess please.
Comments: This goes easily as 1 pitch from the ground with some runners down low. Only 1 cam (0.75) is needed if you trust the pins. First 2 bolts are ancient, rusty time bombs with possibly aluminum hangers.... Very fun route.
Comments: I assume this involves clipping the old "nasty" cold shut? It looked rusted and cracked when I was up there, pretty sketch. I doubt people will ever do this with the current hardware situation. It does look kinda cool.
Comments: The best way to approach the West Face of Overhang is to walk up the Bear Canyon trail until you come to the huge boulder on the left side of the trail (the Shelf Block). Just before the boulder there is a climber's trail leading up and left into the woods. Follow the trail up past a few boulders, contouring and following a few cairns until you reach the big flat rock directly under the power line. From there, head straight up the talus (walking parallel to the cliff) for about 15 yards until yo... more >>
Comments: This thing is cleaning up well. As far as steep 5.10 sport rigs around Boulder go, this one is pretty cool! Longish draws on basically all bolts except 1st help with the clips and rope drag, especially if this is your limit or you are short.
Comments: I guess I sort of understand the complaints about the route, but damn, dude, it's pretty good! It is essentially a sandwiched long boulder problem with rests before and after the "meat". However, the climbing before and after the meat (the "bread"?) is pretty frickin' sweet on awesome rock. It's probably 5.11+/5.12- through these sections, so not trivial. Overall, an awesome, fun route and totally worthy. Not sure on the grade. Harder than $00pr kr33m.
Comments: The comments on this route seem to be all over the place. I'll weigh in my opinion also. Great route and totally well protected. I almost left the #5 and #6 in the pack, but a couple Moab locals told me to take them. Wow, glad I did. This route would be very dangerous without at least a #4 Camalot. The bigger pieces were not "necessary" but I was glad to have them and placed them both on all 4 pitches. The #6 will fit in the crack at one key section of the 3rd pitch... more >>
Comments: One of the best routes I've done in CO and one of the best cracks I've been on at any grade. We did the 5.10 variation into the bolt ladder, and it was spectacular. The summit is worthy! Bring the #4.
The first pitch has no fixed anchor. The 2nd pitch has a fixed sling anchor which is hard to inspect but easily backed up. The scary chockstone should be trundled!! No slings around it, but I could not avoid standing on it. It moves a lot. Somebody should remove this thing on a quiet ... more >>