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Ben Mottinger


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 3, 2014
Contact Ben Mottinger


Point Rank: # 98
Total Points: 4,079
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
146 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Mottinger been climbing?










Contributions


All 884 | Routes 156 | Areas 65 | Photos 284 | Page Improvments | Comments 124 | Posts | Stars 217 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Ignominity (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: On pitch 3 there is a variation that heads right through a thin crack (10b). There is an old 0.25in. bolt on the face above.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just an update on the fixed pins on the roof. There is now only one angle in the roof, which is really not necessary--a yellow alien fits just above. The other pin is lower in the dihedral before the roof and the eyes are smashed halfway closed anyway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: An awesome route with a perfect crack for most of this long route. The grade is a little sandbagged IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bolt Cola (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: To the "overbolted" comment, I mean that most of the route can be protected with stoppers and cams. There are only a few sections where placing gear would be difficult/runout. This applies to Simmer as well.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just to reiterate what Charles said--it really looks like 5.10ish from below, but once you actually start climbing it, you'll see the good holds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did the 10a variation today with Charles--instead of exiting through the normal V-slot, take a hand crack angling right, just 15ft from the belay then continue to the summit via another nice crack.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: First, to clarify--Myke means that you can just reach the 1st belay ledge w/ a 60m when rapping from the very top. Also--the new route to the right of PCs is only 1 pitch and about 5.9 and includes a large flake to lieback about 1/2 way up. You can still climb this variation, then head over to the second pitch of PCs. Finally, Myke must have had his marshmellow shoes on, because theres not an abscence of holds for the hands at the crux on P1--they are just subtle.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Well, that doesn't surprise me, Pat, that you would underestimate or dare I say sandbag a pitch or a whole climb. I've NEVER heard you say something like, "Yeah, it was rated 12a s, but is actually more like 11c or so." ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Yes, I made the same mistake on the descent too which made for some tangy downclimbing the steep slope with loose rocks. The correct or easier way is to stay high on the traverse until you see the talus field.

I found that many smaller pieces work best for the first pitch. My largest piece was a #2 Friend until the last move, where I placed a #3 Friend.

On a side note, Myke and I were filmed on this route today (4-30-01) for some climbing instruction program to be aired on a new ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Wide Load aka Route 3 (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I looked this up in Desert Rock III and it gets a 10a rating for the small bulge after the OW section. Forgot the name though...Doh.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I just read these comments again and realized I made a mistake. For the first variation I meant to say the crack on the far "left" then traverse "right" to gain the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this in Oct. of 99 with my Italian friend Matteo, and the rock was so cold I couldn't feel my fingers and hands--good thing I let him lead it. ;-) The crux was pretty tricky for a 5.7, just as the final Cozyhang/Owl roof is.

This is number 1 in the picture.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Thindependence (5.10c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did this today 5-6-01 with Charles after a morning of climbing in Boulder Canyon. I wanted to mention that like Chucky said, avoiding the Pear Buttress flake is a good choice. You can start the route by 4th classing up a little chimney to the left of the flake. Have your belayer perch on the top of this big block with his/her feet pressed against the slab. Comfy little spot. The leader can continue around the left and up an easy slab to the start of the route.

A fun TR (or no pro) variation to ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Charles and I were meaning to climb this today, but neither of us were feeling quite up to committing past the first section. We did boulder up past the crux though and got a good RP below the finger crack. I think it would have definitely protected a fall moving to the finger jam where the TCU could be placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did this again on 5-9-01 and guess who was climbing one pitch ahead of us? The one and only George Hurley himself! What an honor to climb with the FA on a classic route.

I also forgot how much I love the 4th pitch. It doesn't get much better than that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Cornered, straight up varia... (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is an atypical crack pitch for Eldo. A parallel hand crack with nothing for the feet except to jam the crack. This is a burly and sustained 40ft. of 5.8 jamming. A 2.5 Friend is the perfect size for this crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The bottom of the route has a maximum of about 10d/11a but the crux is pulling over the little roof at the last bolt. Tricky footwork and crimpy holds.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : The Way Out (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route has only a few difficult moves, but they are closer to solid 5.8 and the crux lieback is committing. If I remember correctly, a #4 Camalot can protect the flake at the crux better than a smaller piece down low.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : Thought Control (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just to add a bit to the story of Steve. To this day, we can'treally figure out HOW he broke his ankle. He took what appeared to be a clean 12ft. fall but must have caught his foot on a small edge.

The result was a completely shattered ankle which required 13 screws and two plates in surgery that night. Now "Frankenfoot" is getting back into climbing, but a freak accident like that really makes you second guess yourself when you have to get back on the sharp end.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Pee on Dee (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The direct start is about a V2 problem. It involves liebacking the sloping or flared crack then highstepping to gain the thin, slopey rail.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Deck Chairs on the Titanic (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: All these popular routes at Table seem to be getting slightly harder due to the holds being quite polished and greasy. The whole climb (with or w/out the direct start) seems more like 10a now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A #3 Camalot is a little too big for the handcrack on P4--several #2s are definitely preferable. Also, I just wanted to add that the pro for this climb is great--easy to place and well-protected at all the cruxes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A #4 Camalot or equivalent is almost mandatory unless you run it out through the offwidth section. If you have two, you could really sew it up.


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