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Ben Mottinger


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 29, 2014
Contact Ben Mottinger


Point Rank: # 91
Total Points: 4,079
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 0
143 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Ben Mottinger been climbing?










Contributions


All (884) | Routes (156) | Areas (65) | Photos (284) | Comments (124) | Posts | Stars (217) | Ratings (38)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Lichen or Not (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 13, 2002

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Comments: I thought the good part of the route was too short for 3 stars.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 8, 2002

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Comments: I think there are better 5.7s out there. YMMV.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Twin Cracks (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments: If you are looking for a 5.8, you only have a few options so do the route, but it's just not that good compared to the splitters.

Only the top is a little burly, but it's short.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments: Duh...

I think the short pumpy section is enough to warrant a 10, but with all the rests, it's definitely easier than most 10s around here. The hands were great for my size (average to small).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments: Really good jams and a nice long route. Excellent. Just as good as IHC IMHO.

Since this was my first lead at IC, I will have to "inflate" the grade as well, but when the hands got a little wider at the end, I was getting pumped (for my smaller hands) so I definitely say 5.10. The "technical crux" pod didn't seem that bad. This was really an endurance route for me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Chocolate Corner (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments: Great route, but I wish it was a little longer.

I could get pretty decent jams with my hands.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Binou's Crack (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments: Atypical route for IC, but a lot of fun.

Better than twin cracks at Supercrack Buttress, but for its grade, it's not too bad.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 9+ (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments:

Really fun and worth doing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Triple Jeopardy (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 4, 2002

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Comments: This is rated 5.7 in Sharp End's book.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 30, 2002

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Comments: 3 stars for the position and craziness but 1 for rock quality.

I felt the first BL and last were similar in grade and easy to clip up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 29, 2002

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Comments: The route compared to Perversion or Green Spur seems similar--the last pitch was a lot easier the 2nd time around, but the start of the second pitch is still burly.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 29, 2002

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Comments: Very good.

The moves on P1 are stout and exciting, but no harder than a route like Green Spur. I thought the last pitch was more 5.8 than 5.7.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Eight Crack (5.8 R)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 20, 2002

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Comments: The route may warrant an s rating, but you can definitely get some reasonable gear in before the 20' mark. After the first hard move (at about 10'), it sews up if you have some small RPs and cams. If you are a new 5.8 leader you will probably want to hold off on this one though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 19, 2002

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Comments: In Rossiter's newest Eldo book, he describes two variations to the start of T&G. Both start to the right of the standard route. The first, takes a L-arcing flake on the right, which takes good gear (8) and another one in the R-facing dihedral on the left side. Rossiter says that the second variation is 9s, but I found it to be reasonably-well protected with some small stoppers and cams and only about 5.7+ or so.

Maybe I'm missing something, but the topo in the book shows exactly what I had... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Bolting for Glory (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 19, 2002

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Comments: A green (#2) Splitter cam is useful for the pull over the edge after the 4th bolt. Not necessary, but feels more secure.

The rating seems right for the crux at the 3rd bolt.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Licorice Stick (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 18, 2002

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Comments: Now that I think about this, it is more like 5.8. I just put the rating posted in Tom's book.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 16, 2002

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Comments: You won't find a better F7 pitch.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Thinstone (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 15, 2002

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Comments: I followed Charles on this one day and thought it was pretty spicy. 9+ with a dab of habanero sauce. The RP(s) may be good, but if you're not a 5.10 leader and skilled w/ placing them, it could be dangerous.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: To make a plug for a friend, it sounds like some Splitter gear 2Cams or 4Cams would be nice for this route (and aid routes in general) for the shallow and/or flaring pin scars. Check em out: www.splittergear.com.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: Nice PSed pic, Myke. ;-)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: There's some good mtn. biking in this canyon too (if it's the one I'm thinking of). Lot's of freeform slick rock when you get up out of the wash. Why not bike in w/ your gear?


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Banana Peel (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: Sean--you're right. The only way to TR the Banana is to either lead the chimney (no real pro until the top, but short, easy, and not exposed) or carefully make the big step (short leap) to the top. If you're feeling sketched, you can anchor the tree to the south as a belay, then setup the TR.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Seibernetics (5.8+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 3, 2002

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Comments: I had another misadventure on this route, George. We tried to sneak this in as the last route before the sun went down, but I found it difficult to see and place gear. Thinking I wouldn't need any med-large pro, I left all that on the ground. Now in the dark, I was about 15-18' above a placement and fumbled in some crappy nut and started to make the move up and over to the anchors when the nut popped back out. I yelled at my group of 5 people at the base (who were laughing, joking, and carry... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 13, 2002

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Comments: I think a lot of the discussion on the "quality" of this route has to do with what type of routes people prefer. I personally like a clean crack on a face or in a dihedral, and a lot of the climbing on Osiris is not that clean. Sorry to add yet another comment on this topic.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Ben Mottinger When: Feb 11, 2002

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Comments: The marmots are just as bad in the Chicago Basin in the San Juans beneath Sunlight, Windom, and Eolus. When I was there a few years ago in June, there was only one other guy and a marmot ate through his Bibler and thermarest while he was climbing. He didn't have a scrap of food in the tent either. On his advice, we hung everything like you would for bears, but they still got to some things. It makes you mad that you have to take down your tent and hang everything at the crack of dawn before ... more >>


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