Comments: Matt and I climbed this last week in two days. Fixed the first 4 then did the last 3 on day two. This route is definitely climbable in a long day. My gear suggestions...
-bring swim goggles -single set micro cams -triple set from green alien to #2 camalot -4-5 #3 camalots, 2-3 #4, 2 #5, 1 #6 -a set of stoppers -hybrid aliens -2 specters -5 sets of peckers -blades, LA, angles, z-pins -2 lead lines for the last pitch
Comments: Clay and I just climbed the second ascent of this awesome route over a day and a half. The route went all clean at 5.9 C2. If you are looking for a shorter version of this it would be easy to walk up to below the 7th pitch, and climb a 60' moderate pitch to get to the base of pitch 7. Also the tower on pitch 8 and the rappel can be avoided with a short pitch to the right. This short pitch would put you at the start of pitch 9.
We rappelled from the summit to the ground with a one full 60 m... more >>
Comments: -I thought 'Clearlight' was just as good as 'Infared' just slightly easier. -We went without the old #5 and didn't wish we had it. -I brought a green, yellow, red alien on the chimney pitch and placed all 3.
Comments: There was a loose block under the roof that recently fell off while Matt was working the top moves of 420 alone on a fixed line. Apparently it landed where most people belay. Be careful out there.
This might change some peoples sequence slightly but shouldn't affect the grade.
Comments: Chris is right. This is a great line! I found it to have a similar difficulty of climbing as 420, it just lacks the no hands rest. I found the thin, crimpy, upper crux difficult to read at first but found a line through it that wasn't too horribly difficult. Get on this thing!
Comments: I think in this case nothing would be taken away from future generations of climbers by bolting on a hold so it could be climbed from the ground. It's just a shitty sport route on chossy rock. Plus it would be so much cooler from the ground!
Comments: Bill, Matt and I climbed this the other day all free. Pitch one went at 5.11b. Pitch 2 is a really cool OW that has lots of features to avoid stacking, it went at 5.10b. The last pitch is a little soft but went free at 5.10a. Really fun free climbing! I would highly recommend!
Comments: Matt and Bill did the FFA of this tower via Sam's first pitch variation up the chimney which obviously had already been freed. The second pitch went at 5.11c. After they came down I toproped the original first pitch and felt it was 5.11b.
I think a ladder is a great idea. Were you thinking a fixed ladder or one that would be moveable? It might be nice to have a ladder that we could move to Matt's new route to the left and whatever else might pop up. I do wonder how long it will last though. I wonder how long the ladder for 'Off the Cart' lasted before it disappeared? Or how long the 'Black Nasty' stool will stick around? We could do a stick clip as Matt suggests, but it would be more enjoyable with the ladder.
Comments: -We drove in the White Rim from Mineral Bottom and parked near where the Wilhite Trail intersects it. It took us 1hr and 20 min to hike to the base of the East Face and 50 min to hike back to the car. 6hrs and 40 min car to car. -Someone in the summit register said that they hiked the Wilhite Trail in from the upper TH and it took 2 hrs and 45min to get to the base. -Someone else said they rappelled in but would never do that again.