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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Direct to Sweeney's (5.11a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim were we correct in thinking that this was to the left of "We Don't Need Another Hero?". Or is this "We Don't Need Another Hero?"
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall
By: Ben Kiessel When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Devin,
I think a ladder is a great idea. Were you thinking a fixed ladder or one that would be moveable? It might be nice to have a ladder that we could move to Matt's new route to the left and whatever else might pop up. I do wonder how long it will last though. I wonder how long the ladder for 'Off the Cart' lasted before it disappeared? Or how long the 'Black Nasty' stool will stick around?
We could do a stick clip as Matt suggests, but it would be more enjoyable with the ladder.
-B... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Cenotaph Spire : Cenotaph Spire (5.8 C1 R)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Word on the street is that there are 4 more bolts missing now on the 3rd pitch. Apparently they pulled out with fingertips.
When someone goes back up there and puts the bolts back in hopefully they do it right. That rock needs something more then 3/8" x 1.5". Put some long 1/2" bolts in.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Candlestick Tower
By: Ben Kiessel When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: -We drove in the White Rim from Mineral Bottom and parked near where the Wilhite Trail intersects it. It took us 1hr and 20 min to hike to the base of the East Face and 50 min to hike back to the car. 6hrs and 40 min car to car.
-Someone in the summit register said that they hiked the Wilhite Trail in from the upper TH and it took 2 hrs and 45min to get to the base.
-Someone else said they rappelled in but would never do that again.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Tighten Up Tower : Loosen Up (5.11)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Mar 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We had just climbed Hidden and McYetta's Loaf and I was talking to Jeff Widen on the phone about the plan for the next day. I mentioned this tower and he said that Jeremy already got the FA of the tower. Sure enough. Jeremy snaked it out from under our noses.
It sat there ignored for years and then got two routes put up on it within 2 weeks.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Tighten Up Tower : Loosen Up (5.11) : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Mar 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI: I walked within 15' of Jeremy's pitch one anchor. With a rope you could likely climb out to it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arch Canyon : Dreamcatcher Tower : Broken Dreams (5.9 C2)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Feb 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: -Bill and I climbed this 2/3/2013.
-Good route guys! Great view from the top!
-I was a little confused as to why the register was a pitch from the top until we got up there and realized there was nowhere to put it.
-We hiked in from the rim on the south side of the towers. We fixed a line on the way in and then found a way to hike out on the way out. 2 hrs in and 2 hrs out. I'm not super stoked to take this approach again.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well I can tell you that there were carabiners that were spray painted blue on the anchor. A usually think of those as yours.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sitting Hen
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Sitting Hen : Mr. Stubbs (5.9 A0) : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note the ice in the lower left. It was 15 degrees when Bill took that photo.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a) : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This anchor is the only anchor we found on the Anvil and is on the SW side of the tower thats the side of the tower that faces away from the road. There is a bolt low on the route that is below the anchor.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK I was a little confused before and now I'm really confused.
Here is what I know...
-In DR4 it says that Pounding Herradurra faces SW (which faces away from the road), while the corner that in the picture in DR4 that Jeremy and I climbed faces NE.
-There is no bolt on the NE corner route and no anchor on top of the corner.
-The only rappel anchor that we found on the summit was on a route that faced SW and had a bolt down low. (sorry if it was unclear, but we rappelled from an anchor down... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Petard Tower : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That thing is super tight.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a) : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know the history behind this little guy?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route Jeremy!
It's probably gone free before but we freed it yesterday at 5.10 with a little jog left about 3/4 of the way up. Bill freed the direct line on top rope at 5.11. Little heads up in spots because of the loose character of the route.
I brought a double set from .3 to 3 camalot, plus a couple smaller cams and a #4 and #5.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Half Man, Half Alligator Sh... (5.13-)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: KB is a knife blade
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Face To Nowhere (5.7)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We put a fatty 1/2" bolt on the anchor of this in the summer of 2011, since one was less than awesome. I guess we should have replaced the lead bolt while we were up there.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+) : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill was leading pitch 2 which he linked with 3. Great photo! Thanks!
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Blue Light Special (5.12a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed this thing is great!
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Better Eat Yo Wheaties (5.13a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A hold broke off of this a couple years ago. I have not been on it since the hold broke, but I would guess it's probably quite a little bit harder than it was before.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Power Glide (5.12b/c)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed on the above anchor thoughts. Great route though.
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Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Country Club Cave : Left Hazard Low (5.13a/b)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To climb 'Left Hazard High', basically climb 'Pink Taco', then walk the top of the cliff band to the left until the 'Left Hazard' achors are at your feet. Bend down and clip them. Check.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Cottonwood Wash : Million Dollar Tower -Compr... (5.5 A1+)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: -I would guess the rappel off the top is about 180'.
-Be perpared for the random free move between bolts.
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Rasta Man!! (5.12+)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you know what it goes at? Am I right about the easy .13? I guess I'll just have to get on it.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Yosemite Crack Zone (Left) : Vivian (5.12-)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So there's that.
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