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 ADVANCED
2003


Member Since: Mar 9, 2004
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Ben Kiessel


Point Rank: # 175
Total Points: 2,707
Last Year: 338
Last 30 Days: 41
82 Compliments
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Contributions


All (897) | Routes (54) | Areas (30) | Photos (272) | Comments (317) | Posts (88) | Stars (127) | Ratings (9)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Beaking In Tongues (5.8 A4)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Matt and I climbed this last week in two days. Fixed the first 4 then did the last 3 on day two. This route is definitely climbable in a long day.
My gear suggestions...

-bring swim goggles
-single set micro cams
-triple set from green alien to #2 camalot
-4-5 #3 camalots, 2-3 #4, 2 #5, 1 #6
-a set of stoppers
-hybrid aliens
-2 specters
-5 sets of peckers
-blades, LA, angles, z-pins
-2 lead lines for the last pitch

Great climbing, amazing line!

DO IT!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Trojan : Everyman's Endless Edge (5.9+ A1+)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Clay and I just climbed the second ascent of this awesome route over a day and a half. The route went all clean at 5.9 C2.
If you are looking for a shorter version of this it would be easy to walk up to below the 7th pitch, and climb a 60' moderate pitch to get to the base of pitch 7. Also the tower on pitch 8 and the rappel can be avoided with a short pitch to the right. This short pitch would put you at the start of pitch 9.

We rappelled from the summit to the ground with a one full 60 m... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Durango : US Highway 550 : The Scratch (WI4+ M8+)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Feb 1, 2014

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Comments: Short video:



Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Dickfour : Original Route (5.9+ A2+)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the correction.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Durango : US Highway 550 : Seven Year Itch (WI5)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: This route can be rappelled with a single 70 meter rope.


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : Get Off the Cart (and Climb... (5.12a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: This route goes from the ground. A powerful little boulder problem at the beginning avoids the need for a "cart". The boulder problem is maybe V4-5? So from the ground maybe 5.12b?


Location: Bill Grasse : pictures : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: What I don't get photo credits?


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: I top-roped the blue arrows in a 230' pitch while descending 'Clearlight'. It seemed to be 5.11ish, and was super fun.
It would be a fun outing to do it right and lead it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Clearlight (5.11 PG13)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: -I thought 'Clearlight' was just as good as 'Infared' just slightly easier.
-We went without the old #5 and didn't wish we had it.
-I brought a green, yellow, red alien on the chimney pitch and placed all 3.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Pyromania (5.12a)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: FA: Kris French?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Photo
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Sweet! Thanks Paul.


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Putterman's Frisbee : The F... (A0 PG13)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Stoked you put a route up. I look up at that thing every time I drive by.


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Putterman's Frisbee : The F... (A0 PG13)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I always assumed that this was 'Putterman's Frisbee" page 143 in DR2.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : 420 (5.12d)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: There was a loose block under the roof that recently fell off while Matt was working the top moves of 420 alone on a fixed line. Apparently it landed where most people belay. Be careful out there.

This might change some peoples sequence slightly but shouldn't affect the grade.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Jack Frost (5.13)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Chris is right. This is a great line!
I found it to have a similar difficulty of climbing as 420, it just lacks the no hands rest. I found the thin, crimpy, upper crux difficult to read at first but found a line through it that wasn't too horribly difficult.
Get on this thing!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Cold Ass Honkies (5.11c)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: I think in this case nothing would be taken away from future generations of climbers by bolting on a hold so it could be climbed from the ground. It's just a shitty sport route on chossy rock.
Plus it would be so much cooler from the ground!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Pointy Tower : The Original Route (5.9 C1+)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Bill, Matt and I climbed this the other day all free. Pitch one went at 5.11b. Pitch 2 is a really cool OW that has lots of features to avoid stacking, it went at 5.10b. The last pitch is a little soft but went free at 5.10a. Really fun free climbing! I would highly recommend!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Roadside Fling Tower : The Things We Do For Love (5.8 C2)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Matt and Bill did the FFA of this tower via Sam's first pitch variation up the chimney which obviously had already been freed. The second pitch went at 5.11c. After they came down I toproped the original first pitch and felt it was 5.11b.


Location: CO : Silverton area : Cunningham Gulch : Master's Wall : Angel of Death (5.11d)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: I might be wrong, but I think this is the 4th from the right.


Location: CO : Silverton area : Cunningham Gulch : Master's Wall : Master Blaster (5.13c)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Wow! This thing is awesome! Can't wait to get back up there. Good work you guys!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Cold Ass Honkies (5.11c)
By: Ben Kiessel When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: This route is pretty fun!
Good find, Matt!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Direct to Sweeney's (5.11a R)
By: Ben Kiessel When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Tim were we correct in thinking that this was to the left of "We Don't Need Another Hero?". Or is this "We Don't Need Another Hero?"


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall
By: Ben Kiessel When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: Hey Devin,

I think a ladder is a great idea. Were you thinking a fixed ladder or one that would be moveable? It might be nice to have a ladder that we could move to Matt's new route to the left and whatever else might pop up. I do wonder how long it will last though. I wonder how long the ladder for 'Off the Cart' lasted before it disappeared? Or how long the 'Black Nasty' stool will stick around?
We could do a stick clip as Matt suggests, but it would be more enjoyable with the ladder.

-B... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Cenotaph Spire : Cenotaph Spire (5.8 C1 R)
By: Ben Kiessel When: Mar 14, 2013

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Comments: Word on the street is that there are 4 more bolts missing now on the 3rd pitch. Apparently they pulled out with fingertips.

When someone goes back up there and puts the bolts back in hopefully they do it right. That rock needs something more then 3/8" x 1.5". Put some long 1/2" bolts in.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Candlestick Tower
By: Ben Kiessel When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: -We drove in the White Rim from Mineral Bottom and parked near where the Wilhite Trail intersects it. It took us 1hr and 20 min to hike to the base of the East Face and 50 min to hike back to the car. 6hrs and 40 min car to car.
-Someone in the summit register said that they hiked the Wilhite Trail in from the upper TH and it took 2 hrs and 45min to get to the base.
-Someone else said they rappelled in but would never do that again.


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