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Member Since: Mar 19, 2009
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 877 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 535 | Stars 134 | Ratings 138
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Krimo Gold (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Surprised this route has so few comments. Great route! My favorite of this trip to Squamish. Highly recommended if you are leading mid 5.10 solidly.

All pitches are good. Multiple 5.10 cruxes/sections and good variety. Top pitch is continuously steep but felt generally quite secure (to me) with lots of great hand jams and rests between creative jamming, stemming laybacking etc. Stellar pitch!

Pro seemed good enough, though some a bit fiddly, and some sections felt pretty committing. There wer... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Vixen (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Look out for wasps a few feet right of the start under a small overhang.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: mountainhick When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Best photo on Mountainproject!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : The Cruise (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Another party was starting Heavy Weather, so we went up to do this and the chimney/OW corner. Worth doing once, but I wouldn't make a special effort to do this climb otherwise. A serious lead with marginal pro getting to the bolt, so not recommended if you aren't solid at 5.9 or 5.9+.

Bolt/hanger is currently rusted/questionable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Concentric (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: Fun, little traverse. The crux pro placement is not the most awe inspiring, the rock there is coarse grained, and the placement is flared and angled.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Trouble And Strife (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: I liked this little climb! Short but full value and protects well. Good fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Zap Snack (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, escaping to the arete keeps it in the 5.10 range, but 5.10c is a sandbag for stemming through the top corner if you don't have freakish yoga/splits abilities. A couple comments on Terminal Velocity back this up too, people saying the upper corner is harder than the lower 5.11b/c crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Face (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Updated the "beta photo". Reading the description and comments here, I was pretty confused about the variations when I went to lead this a few days ago.

"The 5.10 section", "the 5.11 start", "the 5.10a bulge", "getting on the slab (5.10a/b)", "the 10c way", "the 11a/b way", "the 11b variation", "direct start via thin crack (5.10c/d)", "the 11b straight up variation", "the 10a/b bulge"....

After getting on it:

-Direct start: just right of the start to Hair City, climb the thin crack straight ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: P1 PG-13 for sure, though not at the crux level. P2 is fun though a bit unnerving off the ground. If you come off the thin face to the first pro, you'd easily break an ankle. "R" rating for this on the upper pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Faulty Logic (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Contrived, not a great line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: The route itself and movement is very cool, but the slickness and pigeon shit detract (the 5.10 variation, I have not yet done the 5.11 section).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Northumberland Crack (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: The wide crack on P2 is fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments:
Blind Faith.
Blind Faith.


I have loved this climb since I first climbed it in the '80s with hexes and stoppers! P1 is the purest crack climb I can think of at the grade in Eldo, and P2 is a really nice compliment with very different climbing. Just wish it was more continuous. When on the west side of the Bastille, Blind Faith is almost mandatory every time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : March of Dimes (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Kerr, ditto Tony B above. 3 variations for P1 start, and if you want good pro, there are at at least 3 good placements on the left start before moving up into the left-leaning crack; a micronut then a TCU under the left-arcing overhang, then another good placement at the base of the crack itself before committing. If you start up and move right a little traversing across the 5.11 start, there's a great right kneebar to help you hang out to place and rest before the moves into the crack... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Moves entering the corner are cranky and awkward.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Strawberry Shortcut (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: One move wonder. I apparently missed the 5.9 beta on this move which felt harder to me than any single move on Outer Space. This one I had to downclimb twice to rest to figure it out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Morning Thunder (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Short but high value. Really enjoyed this pitch!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful route!

I didn't find it R, maybe PG-13 going around the first bulge P1 traversing to the corner, and on the P2 upper hueco-ed runout to the top, but neither sections are near the crux 5.10b-ish grade. Pro seemed plentiful and solid otherwise.

Don't let your guard down after pulling through the P2 crux. Stays pretty continuous and has a couple more interesting cruxy bits on the upper headwall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Agree with hwendlandt. Just climbed this today, maybe I was off on this one, but in the context of similarly rated climbs (hard 5.10-5.11) we did today:

Bonehead, S, 5.10c/d;
Conehead, S, 5.11b;
Trouthead, S, 5.10c/d;
Eiger Sanction, S, 5.10d;
Eiffel Tower, S, 5.10d;

the crux was every bit as hard as Conehead for me (which I thought was 5.11a), and harder than Trouthead or Eiger Sanction.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Remains to be Seen (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jan 30, 2015

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Comments: The climing is fun enough, especiialy the moves off the ground, but the routesetting/bolt placement and first pitch anchor in terms of rappel descent are terrible. I extended almost all of the clips, and reached back to remove several draws after clipping the next throughout the pitch, yet still had considerable rope drag. Bolts could have easily been placed in a logical line, and forget rapping from top of first pitch without extending the anchor over the edge.

As is, be sure to have someone ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Seems some confusion in this here MP route guide about this route vs The 5.10- corner.

Three fools route location is around to the right out of view from the Dr Carl/wiggin worm area. It is in the vicinity of "Ernie used to box"


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route ... (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: The photos are of two different routes.

The corner is in sight of wigglin worm and Dr Carl. It is Route #15 in the Bloom 2nd edition "Unnamed 5.10-"

The other photo labelled as three fools is further around to the right


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Don't know if its wear from traffic, but a couple tight #2 C4s fit fine before the upper #0.75 section.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : No Excuse (5.10+)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Quality route well worth doing.

Seems a sandbag for 5.10+, harder to me than 5.11- routes like pente or lift kit. Not as sustained as excuse station, has more useful rests, but two crux sections seem harder. And the right wall is pretty radically overhanging!

70m Rope super stretcher rap to the ground, but easily reaches the big ledge at the start of excuse station. Be careful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Sumo (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: 70m just reaches.

And indeed be careful with the rope on rap. Might be better to saddlebag rather than throw. I had a rope end fall back behind the pillar and get stuck. Luckily got it free after messing with it and ascending back up a ways to get well above and pull it straight up.


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