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Member Since: Mar 19, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,635
Total Points: 127
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 38
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mountainhick been climbing?










Contributions


All 478 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 380 | Stars 20 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Seems some confusion in this here MP route guide about this route vs The 5.10- corner.

Three fools route location is around to the right out of view from the Dr Carl/wiggin worm area. It is in the vicinity of "Ernie used to box"


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route ... (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: The photos are of two different routes.

The corner is in sight of wigglin worm and Dr Carl. It is Route #15 in the Bloom 2nd edition "Unnamed 5.10-"

The other photo labelled as three fools is further around to the right


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Don't know if its wear from traffic, but a couple tight #2 C4s fit fine before the upper #0.75 section.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : No Excuse (5.10+)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Quality route well worth doing.

Seems a sandbag for 5.10+, harder to me than 5.11- routes like pente or lift kit. Not as sustained as excuse station, has more useful rests, but two crux sections seem harder. And the right wall is pretty radically overhanging!

70m Rope super stretcher rap to the ground, but easily reaches the big ledge at the start of excuse station. Be careful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Sumo (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: 70m just reaches.

And indeed be careful with the rope on rap. Might be better to saddlebag rather than throw. I had a rope end fall back behind the pillar and get stuck. Luckily got it free after messing with it and ascending back up a ways to get well above and pull it straight up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Reveley-Hunter (5.10b R)
By: mountainhick When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Yes, you are right. I checked Levin and Rossiter's books, and Briggs' variation stays in the initial corner until traversing left at the final angled ledge to the anchor. The description is for the Revely-Hunter route.
I think a G rating is a bit optimistic, but I am glad you felt secure on it!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Slip and Slide (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: A rare route in CCC, really solid at the grade, and with engaging runouts! Seemed like true 5.10d-5.10+, continuous and committing in the 5.10 range. Not really PG-13, but compared to the usual CCC close bolting is a bit on the PG side if unlike Ivan you go with only draws.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: mountainhick When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: April 21, 2014:

Look out, wasp nest on Center Route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Pigs On The Wing (5.11) : Photo
By: mountainhick When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Great shot!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Wee Doggie (5.10-)
By: mountainhick When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Cleaned a snarl of old tat at the anchor. If I beat you to it next time it'll have new chains rather than decomposing nylon at the anchor. For now, slings to quick links off the bolts.

Fun route, first of the day, pretty much a wake up right off the ground, then cruiser.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Ladies First (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Small pro at crux, double or triple up! I used TCU purple and grey and a blue alien before pulling past the move.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyne Crack Simulator (5.11-)
By: mountainhick When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: If revenge of the rock gods is 5.10+, this is 5.10.

Actually think 5.10+ is an accurate Creek grade.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Right V Crack (5.10b)
By: mountainhick When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: I didn't know about the slick feet starting this, doesn't look too slick, but feet greased a couple times. Due to this, the resulting body tension to stay on and place pro from dubious feet made it feel solid at 5.10b. Great line! Three stars for quality, but taken in context of the Indian cove area. Really pretty short


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stone Wall : Purple Haze I (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Not particularly interesting to me. A glorified boulder problem off the deck, and a cranky one at that. I thought the crank was hard at the grade


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stone Wall : April Fools (5.10b)
By: mountainhick When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: I liked the movement on this climb, and found it interesting and pretty varied after some of the climbing with more linear thinking on this crag. Figuring out how to make a sideways long reach right near the top to a large hold added some extra zing. Interesting that "awkwardness" brings this route down in quality for people. Is the route actually awkward, or does it just come down to routefinding or having to figure out some different movement?

That said, I thought nirvana was the best line on... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Kitty Litter (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: "The book describes it as a 140ft. corner with mostly big hands. In actuality it's about 95 ft. and starts out as thin fingers liebacking to a facehold/stance followed by some pods and flares that are wide in places, "


The more I try to use Blooms books, the more I realize how little he must have actually even looked at the crags.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Finnegan's Whiskers (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Incredibly varied. Not a typical IC splitter. I really liked this climb.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 10+ (steep thin han... (5.10+)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Err, personally would not want to do this without a 0.5 or two.

A couple harder moves than some of the easy 5.11- climbs at the creek.

Oh, and Bloom's description sucks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Unknown (5.9)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Second pitch is good though a little sandy. Solid 5.10, maybe 5.10+

Ditto, second pitch anchor is questionable, needs at least a bomber bolt added or ideally both existing bolt/hanger and weird stud replaced.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Sundance Pinnacle : Right Crack (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: mountainhick When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Anne is always fired up!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Rumple Teaser (5.10b)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: Not sure how anyone finds this 5.10b. Seems like 5.10- to me by the last couple bolts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Mungajerry (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: Led this today straight up for the first time without heading left to the big crystal bailout. Seems like 5.10 a/b. Actually harder than Rumple Teaser.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Jogging to Vedauwoo (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Agree, easier, or at least no more difficult than Intimidation, 5.9+.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hairlip (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Crawl right all the way!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : I Smell a Rat (5.10b)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Somewhat dubious bolts, rusty and second or third bolt hanger is loose. I placed a couple stoppers behind a semi loose flake and alligator plating at the top of the arete before moving right to the rap anchor. Not bomber placements due to rock quality.

Somewhat friable holds, wondering if a foot hold broke off. There is a spot where something obviously used to be there but is no longer.


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