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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 27, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,514
Total Points: 407
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben F been climbing?










Contributions


All 644 | Routes 26 | Areas 6 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts 522 | Stars 43 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-)
By: Ben F When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: Steggo,

Though Pappy Corbett first attempted SOS (not for "save our ship"), I got the FA on that. I have to spray about it so I can pick on Jim. He lowered-off, and I clipped his gear to his high point and finished at the first ledge. I returned the following weekend with Woody and did a proper lead on it (still so Pappy couldn't claim the FA). Woody and I believe it to be 5.9. I believe it was '98 when we did that. I chickened-out on your pitch. :)

I really don't climb as much anymore ... more >>


Location: CO : Help to Save Red Rock Canyo...
By: Ben F When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: It will be like seeing Boulder from the top of the Flatirons or from the top of Long's. I mean that in a bad way, too.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall
By: Ben F When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: X,

The T-Wall probably wouldn't be open if it weren't for the hunters. Also, it's "absurd."


Location: GA : Lost Wall : Booze and Broads (5.9+)
By: Ben F When: Mar 31, 2007

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Comments: I chopped it with the FA (Pappy Corbett) in the late 90s or 2000. The guides used it as part of a TR set-up for the hordes. That way, they didn't have to do the fun traverse finish.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : In Pursuit of Excellence (5.9)
By: Ben F When: Jan 2, 2007

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Comments: 5 stars. I'd bring a 4 Friend and probably an old size 4 Camalot, too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.9)
By: Ben F When: Feb 16, 2006

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Comments: On Monday, Feb. 13 I installed a temporary, but good anchor at the top of p2. I did not see the new anchor, which was purported to be 20 ft. higher than the old one (maybe didn't look in the right place). Anyway, my anchor is at about the same height as the old one, but to the right. It is slung around good, attached rock. There was another anchor a little lower and further to the right of my anchor. We removed it as it was a little more than sketchy. Feel free to bring one more 8-10 ft pi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Whiplash (5.10b)
By: Ben F When: Jun 10, 2003

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Comments: The climb S&M (7) will put you more or less at the base of this exposed and protection-required fun boulder problem.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: Ben F When: Jan 28, 2003

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Comments: Richard's assessment of P1 is good. Dump anything larger than a 2.5 Friend/1 Camalot before you leave the slot. From the top of the slot to the anchors Brian mentioned (still there), the crack is mostly #3 Metoulius in size (bring several). This made for great locks for my fingers and the rest of the climbing felt more like relentless 10 to 10+ (size matters). Keep in mind that you've just grunted out of a 10- slot and hiked for at least 1/2 hr. to get to the Bishop. Maybe that's incl... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Motor Mouth (5.9+)
By: Ben F When: Oct 13, 2002

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Comments: Like other Bucksnort climbs, this one is a bit polished. I would not recommend it to a 5.9 leader.

Some, but not all of the placements are a little suspect.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Elephant Man (5.10-)
By: Ben F When: Apr 28, 2002

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Comments: Please don't be a lazy bumbly and set this climb as a top rope. You will only add to the gouges over the shoulder of the ledge. Belay your second from the anchors, where you will be standing on a ledge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Spaghetti Western (5.11+)
By: Ben F When: Jan 31, 2002

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Comments: 11+, or anything more than 11- is a generous rating of this climb.

[I apologize if I sounded like I was spraying. I fully admit that I like to spray. I believe that I have only down-rated 2 climbs on this board - this one and Incredible Handcrack. In the case of IH, I said something along the lines of the route being around 9+ for most people, but harder for those with either really small or really large hands. Many on this board, including myself, have noted that the ratings at the Creek are s... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Tony's Nightmare (WI3-4)
By: Ben F When: Dec 31, 2001

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Comments: This was my second pitch of ice climbing ever (TRed) and I wanted to submit something on the ice section. My first was the lower ice section along the approach (same gully). It was good enough for me to want to swing axes again. Anyway, there is a sling anchor for a descent to the left of the flow.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : No Name Crack (5.10)
By: Ben F When: Nov 25, 2001

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Comments: This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall
By: Ben F When: Nov 25, 2001

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Comments: I was told (this past week) that climbing on the portions of the cliff facing the road is not a problem. However, approach as stated above and do not cross the private property. Note that this is what I "heard" and it needs to be verified as does my closure warning.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Sidewinder (5.10-)
By: Ben F When: Nov 25, 2001

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Comments: My comments were approved by my second prior to submittal. Furthermore, it only took me 3 hrs., 47 min. to lead the pitch - not 4 hrs.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Ben F When: Nov 9, 2001

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Comments: The larger cam can be placed lower on the climb for added comfort. Look at the bottom and see if you want to protect the lower section. If not, then don't bring anything larger than a 3.5 Friend (1 will do).


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Straw Turkey (5.10a)
By: Ben F When: Nov 7, 2001

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Comments: As my partner, the infamous Dean Miller stated, "this route defines 10a in the Platte."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Cave Route (5.10d)
By: Ben F When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: This beauty is great for practicing jamming in smaller sizes. You can stay on your feet, in the crack, the entire way (I have medium hands and feet). This is especially true, since its a little less than vertical. This route is about 2 stars. Since its in a "cave", it provides nice relief from the hot sun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Ben F When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: This may be the best route I have ever done (or that has done me). Don't do this route on a hot August day like we did. I found that trying to lead both the 2nd and 3rd pitches is a good way to be sore for the next 2 days. What a great route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Ben F When: Nov 2, 2001

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Comments: George, it is a good practice to back-up a belay when you can. I also like to back-up the anchors on rappel and have the fat guy go first. I'll agree that most of the bolts on the Kor-Ingalls are pretty good, but you just never know. What can I say - I'm a safety nazi? Also, I've crowbarred bolts easily out of more solid sandstone in the SE US, so the softer stuff in Utah has my attention. Finally, one last thing I should mention to those of you climbing on this softer sandstone - don't lea... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Drainpipe (5.10)
By: Ben F When: Nov 1, 2001

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Comments: I'll check my guides, but I thought Drainpipe was the left route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: Ben F When: Oct 31, 2001

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Comments: You can use a 60m rope if your belayer walks uphill (to the right)to lower you (through your own biners). When they second and rap, they can veer that way and safely reach the ground. Thanks for not inflating the grade of this climb like some do.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Ben F When: Oct 30, 2001

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Comments: Using a few long runners, P1 and P2 can be combined to get some value-added climbing. For me, P2 was at least as difficult as P1 and more interesting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: Ben F When: Oct 11, 2001

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Comments: Ross, Rossiter's guide gives P2 an 11-. If you were to call the 2nd pitch 10+ and maybe even 10, I wouldn't argue. Ratings are subjective. My second thought the rating was close enough. At the crux (for me) section on P2, I didn't find any hand jams (lower, I did). I felt the climb was similar in difficulty to P2 of Muscular Dystrophy (also rated 11-). I am assuming that you took the right-hand finish/P2 and not the 9/9+ to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Ben F When: Sep 24, 2001

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Comments: A nice route. The first pitch is a bit more sustained than the 2nd. That being said, the 2nd pitch was one of the harder 10s I've led and I really thought I was going to fall. In this case I will pull the "its harder for short people" card. I had a better time with the few 11s in Eldo that I've done.


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