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OKellys Crack, J Tree


Member Since: Mar 23, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,199
Total Points: 153
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Be Esperanza been climbing?










Contributions


All 201 | Routes | Areas | Photos 25 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 84 | Stars 38 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Pirate's Cove (aka The Beac... : Iron Man (V2-3) : Photo
By: Be Esperanza When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: I'm particularly bothered by some of the comments regarding this photo. Sure, Prrdylady is wearing a bathing suit, but I don't really see why that gives men the right to make adolescent comments about her body. I've seen countless pictures of Backer wearing less than what she has on, yet I don't recall ever reading comments by women or men about how big his balls are (no disrespect to the man intended). I would be willing to be that if someone did have something to say about his skimpy clothi... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Maginot Line (5.7+)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: we did it in 2 pitches with a 70, but I think you could pull it off in 2 with a 60 as well. Absolute classic.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Photo
By: Be Esperanza When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: I found a social trail North of Sitting Bear. I think it was flagged


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Be Esperanza When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: I've done this route twice, and both times the rope got stuck in the crack. The second time I placed a big stopper at the problem spot, but it got stuck anyway. I think the problem arises from the fact that the gear anchor point is deeper in the crack, after the angle decreases. I really think a bolted anchor out on the face would add to the experience of this amazing climb. I'm aware of the nasty bolt wars Turkey Rocks has already been through, and I know the earth may stop rotating around ... more >>


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : BOG Man (5.11a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: To me it makes a lot more sense to combine these two pitches into a single one hundred foot pitch.


Location: NC : The Dump : Unwritten Law (5.12b/c)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: +1 for Joe's comment. I can attest to the nasty fall first hand


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : Trundle From Down Under (5.12a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Juggy, steep, pumpy, and really fun. Gear Beta: I used a #1 C4, a blue metolius, a small offset thingy, and a green C3 (which was key), for the arete leading to the traverse. After the bolts I placed a #3 C4, a #2 C4, and a .75 C4. This thing is as steep as the limestone in Thailand! Quality line. Thanks Nathan


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11b)
By: Be Esperanza When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: One of my favorites! I placed a bomber #2 C4 before the crux sequence. It was just a little below my feet when I grabbed the cool crystal thingy.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Granite Sea : Ankles Away (5.10b PG13)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 31, 2011

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Comments: Good pitch.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: If you're flying into/out of Monterrey or will be spending a night in the city, I recommend staying at La Casa del Barrio. It's right downtown, close to the bars, is relatively cheap ($20/night), and was clean and relaxing. Here's what I have for info:

Diego do Montemayor 1221 sur
Monterrey Centro Barrio Antiguo
C.P. 64000 Monterrey N.L. Mexico
lacasadelbarrio.com.mx lacasadelbbarrio@gmail.com
Tel: (81) 8344 1800

If you go out to the bars, brace yourself! Those Mexicanos know how to ge... more >>


Location: CO : New Poudre Canyon Routes Gu...
By: Be Esperanza When: Feb 4, 2010

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Comments: This guide rocks. Thanks, Cam and Ben.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Pharoah's Child (5.10a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: I really liked this route, but I wouldn't say it's one of the best 5.10 pitches on The Book. The gear was generally good, and got better the higher you climbed. I thought it was solid 5.10, with a variety of climbing styles. I would do this route again.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 12, 2009

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Comments: I liked this route. I thought it was a little tough for the grade, but really just because the gear above the roof was crappy and hard to place. There is a bomber #2 BD at your feet when pulling crux. I would also suggest bringing a #4 BD if you have it. The upper 40 feet is easy, but without a #4 I had to run it out.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : The West Face (5.11-)
By: Be Esperanza When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: This is a fantastic climb in an amazing area. The thin 11- crux is short and hard. I found the jams and locks to be really technical. The last pitch felt easier than 10c. I seem to remember it rated as 10a in our guide, but it's a really good pitch too. I dragged a #5 all the way up there but it was too small for the wide crack.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Mud in Your Eye (5.11b)
By: Be Esperanza When: Oct 5, 2007

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Comments: One of the bolts at the top of this climb wiggles.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : In Between (aka Right Dihed... (5.9 R)
By: Be Esperanza When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: I did this as a variation to the Culp but reached the traverse differently. It took us two pitches to reach the pink slab. My partner belayed at top of the dihedral in an area of crappy rock. I then pulled to the right around an arete onto the slab. I thought it protected well enough...maybe a piece every 10-15 feet. The fixed cam was still there. Both this and the next dihedral pitch are rated 5.9 in Gillett's guide and felt soft to me.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jul 23, 2007

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Comments: I have the utmost respect for this climb. I simply didn't think I could climb it from the base, but utilizing both walls I was able to squirm my way to the final offwidth, where I then proceeded to weenie my way to the top. I was still breathing hard when my partner reached the belay bolts. Great route-a little hard for the grade!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Missing Link (5.10d)
By: Be Esperanza When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: I liked this variation. I've climbed it twice, both times in the winter of '07, and it wasn't covered in bird crap. I agree that it is a little harder than Grandmother's Challenge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 12, 2007

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Comments: Fun route. After doing the route in 4 pitches (only linking 4&5) I would agree that doing it in 3 by linking 2&3, and 4&5 would be the way to go. You can also add a harder 1st pitch that goes at 10b/c called Chick on the Side. It spanked me pretty hard, but it pops you out on the ledge that Handcracker starts on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Blackout (5.10a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Oct 12, 2006

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Comments: I thought the climbing in the dihedral was a little dirty but still fun. The pigeon crack was horrible, which is too bad, because otherwise it would have been fun. The second pitch was a choss pile, with one decent move. I would not do this route again.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Mission Impossible (5.10a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: This was my first 10a, and I thought it was a good one. While you can't place gear above you for the first 10a section, you have a bomber #1 BD at your feet. I placed a purple TCU in the flake which was alright, and then made a move higher to find good gear. Fun climb with thoughtful moves.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Center Route (5.6)
By: Be Esperanza When: Sep 6, 2005

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Comments: When I did this route on 9/4/05 the first part of the 3rd pitch was covered in moss, and a hold broke off while my partner was moving around to the right of the mung. The off-width section was completely run out for about 30 feet, but the climbing was easy and enjoyable. Good route, but it was a little dirty.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Be Esperanza When: Aug 1, 2005

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Comments: I did this route on 7/30/05 exactly as Mark Robbins described it. It is one of the best, it not THE BEST climb I've done to date. I took a look at the "true head crack", best decided to climb the one Mark Robbins describes to the right instead because it look much more fun. Stellar!!!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: I found the crux of the route to be the 4th class moves after the 4 Aces. While the climbing wasn't very hard, the exposure was intense. As we passed the serious scrambling after the 4th Ace, we had to cross some snowfields, and in doing so we set off some "wet slides". This was scary. Great route up an amazing mountain.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Be Esperanza When: May 7, 2005

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Comments: This route is about as good as it gets. I liked the first pitch a lot, too. I led the 3rd pitch and found the bulge awkward but not too bad. After moving into the wide gully, I cut hard left and up through a flared crack. This is not the standard route, is harder at 5.9, and a little mungy. Let me just say one more time, this route is GREAT!


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