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OKellys Crack, J Tree


Member Since: Mar 23, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,124
Total Points: 179
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Be Esperanza been climbing?










Contributions


All 280 | Routes | Areas | Photos 29 | Page Improvements | Comments 34 | Posts 133 | Stars 50 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Crimson Corner (5.11a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: I recommend bringing lots of long draws, a small stopper, a .3/.4 sized cam, two .75s, a #1, and a #3. Good pitch.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Jackpot (5.11)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: One of the best pitches in the Gorge. Pumpy, great gear, and incredible movement.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Hemlock Arete (5.10+)
By: Be Esperanza When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: My interpretation of the beta for this climb differs from the description. I brought a bunch of cams but didn't place any, however I'm comfortable at the grade. I did notice one could place a finger sized piece before the high first bolt. If leading it all in one pitch, I would recommend slinging the bolt at the first anchor and the first bolt on the headwall long. the route is fun and pumpy, with a crux at the top. Also, not that this really matters, but it's probably closer to 80 feet as ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Titcomb Basin Area : Mt. Sacagawea : West Face-Right (5.9) : Photo
By: Be Esperanza When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Love the spartan rack. Must have been cool to be in such a remote place so long ago.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : White Russians Gone Bananas (5.11a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Apparently all is no longer well. I climbed White Russians about a month ago and the the locker was gone. No biggie. I left a biner and rapped off. Yesterday I came back to climb the route in "better style", and was surprised to see that my junky old 90s biner was now gone.

On an unrelated note, climbing White Russians to White Corner to Sword of the Lord was a jug hauling good time for me. Maybe we could call this link up the White Banana Sword?


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Tail of the Cat Area : Photo
By: Be Esperanza When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: This crack isn't that steep. The photo is really tilted.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Space Monkey (5.11c)
By: Be Esperanza When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: I love this pitch. The upper face contains three fantastic back to back sequences that involve using unique holds on perfect rock. I consider this a "local classic". Sure, there's a bush which detracts from the aesthetics of the line, but the climbing that surrounds it is burly and requires a diverse set of skills. Highly recommended!


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Maginot Line (5.7+)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: we did it in 2 pitches with a 70, but I think you could pull it off in 2 with a 60 as well. Absolute classic.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Photo
By: Be Esperanza When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: I found a social trail North of Sitting Bear. I think it was flagged


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Be Esperanza When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: I've done this route twice, and both times the rope got stuck in the crack. The second time I placed a big stopper at the problem spot, but it got stuck anyway. I think the problem arises from the fact that the gear anchor point is deeper in the crack, after the angle decreases. I really think a bolted anchor out on the face would add to the experience of this amazing climb. I'm aware of the nasty bolt wars Turkey Rocks has already been through, and I know the earth may stop rotating around ... more >>


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : BOG Man (5.11a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: To me it makes a lot more sense to combine these two pitches into a single one hundred foot pitch.


Location: NC : The Dump : Unwritten Law (5.12b/c)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: +1 for Joe's comment. I can attest to the nasty fall first hand


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : Trundle From Down Under (5.12a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Juggy, steep, pumpy, and really fun. Gear Beta: I used a #1 C4, a blue metolius, a small offset thingy, and a green C3 (which was key), for the arete leading to the traverse. After the bolts I placed a #3 C4, a #2 C4, and a .75 C4. This thing is as steep as the limestone in Thailand! Quality line. Thanks Nathan


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11b)
By: Be Esperanza When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: One of my favorites! I placed a bomber #2 C4 before the crux sequence. It was just a little below my feet when I grabbed the cool crystal thingy.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Granite Sea : Ankles Away (5.10b PG13)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 31, 2011

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Comments: Good pitch.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: If you're flying into/out of Monterrey or will be spending a night in the city, I recommend staying at La Casa del Barrio. It's right downtown, close to the bars, is relatively cheap ($20/night), and was clean and relaxing. Here's what I have for info:

Diego do Montemayor 1221 sur
Monterrey Centro Barrio Antiguo
C.P. 64000 Monterrey N.L. Mexico
lacasadelbarrio.com.mx lacasadelbbarrio@gmail.com
Tel: (81) 8344 1800

If you go out to the bars, brace yourself! Those Mexicanos know how to ge... more >>


Location: CO : New Poudre Canyon Routes Gu...
By: Be Esperanza When: Feb 4, 2010

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Comments: This guide rocks. Thanks, Cam and Ben.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Pharoah's Child (5.10a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: I really liked this route, but I wouldn't say it's one of the best 5.10 pitches on The Book. The gear was generally good, and got better the higher you climbed. I thought it was solid 5.10, with a variety of climbing styles. I would do this route again.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 12, 2009

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Comments: I liked this route. I thought it was a little tough for the grade, but really just because the gear above the roof was crappy and hard to place. There is a bomber #2 BD at your feet when pulling crux. I would also suggest bringing a #4 BD if you have it. The upper 40 feet is easy, but without a #4 I had to run it out.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : The West Face (5.11-)
By: Be Esperanza When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: This is a fantastic climb in an amazing area. The thin 11- crux is short and hard. I found the jams and locks to be really technical. The last pitch felt easier than 10c. I seem to remember it rated as 10a in our guide, but it's a really good pitch too. I dragged a #5 all the way up there but it was too small for the wide crack.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Mud in Your Eye (5.11b)
By: Be Esperanza When: Oct 5, 2007

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Comments: One of the bolts at the top of this climb wiggles.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : In Between (aka Right Dihed... (5.9 R)
By: Be Esperanza When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: I did this as a variation to the Culp but reached the traverse differently. It took us two pitches to reach the pink slab. My partner belayed at top of the dihedral in an area of crappy rock. I then pulled to the right around an arete onto the slab. I thought it protected well enough...maybe a piece every 10-15 feet. The fixed cam was still there. Both this and the next dihedral pitch are rated 5.9 in Gillett's guide and felt soft to me.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: Be Esperanza When: Jul 23, 2007

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Comments: I have the utmost respect for this climb. I simply didn't think I could climb it from the base, but utilizing both walls I was able to squirm my way to the final offwidth, where I then proceeded to weenie my way to the top. I was still breathing hard when my partner reached the belay bolts. Great route-a little hard for the grade!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Missing Link (5.10d)
By: Be Esperanza When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: I liked this variation. I've climbed it twice, both times in the winter of '07, and it wasn't covered in bird crap. I agree that it is a little harder than Grandmother's Challenge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Be Esperanza When: Mar 12, 2007

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Comments: Fun route. After doing the route in 4 pitches (only linking 4&5) I would agree that doing it in 3 by linking 2&3, and 4&5 would be the way to go. You can also add a harder 1st pitch that goes at 10b/c called Chick on the Side. It spanked me pretty hard, but it pops you out on the ledge that Handcracker starts on.


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