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Easy Lieback


Member Since: Jul 14, 2009
Last Visit: 30 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 2,633
Total Points: 188
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 554 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 20 | Posts 78 | Stars 357 | Ratings 73

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Black Dihedral (5.8)
By: Baumer When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: BEWARE LOOSE ROCK! My friend and I climbed this the other night (5/4/14) and encountered some seriously sketchy loose rock near the top. It was 11pm on a Sunday with nobody else around, so we trundled what we could (including several football-sized rocks and one about as big as a microwave!). However, there is still a small pile of loose chockstones in the chimney section about 10 feet below the tree up top. Please be careful or avoid this route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Baumer When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: A few comments on gear: I protected the P2 crux with a yellow X4, which seemed decent (I also found a stopper placement by the point at my feet in case I blew past the ledge). If you do this in one pitch, save a #2 Camalot for the handcrack at the top! I foolishly used mine down low (on the 5.7 section) and had to just sack up through much of the upper section until I could finally fit a #3 in just below the anchors.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Ian's Climb (5.8+)
By: Baumer When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: This can be led on gear if you're so inclined. It's no harder (probably easier) than Crynoid Corner, so I'd say 5.7 is the correct rating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak...
By: Baumer When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: The "Unknown" preceding the names of all of these routes is silly at this point and should be removed. It makes sorting them out difficult, particularly on the mobile app (where the full names aren't displayed until you click on them individually).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Brush Your Teeth (5.9+)
By: Baumer When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Is the crux up high? I led all but about the last 15 feet of this climb (then traversed right to the 5.6 Corner anchors) and marked it as "5.7+ish" in my notes last October. It was definitely a fun natural line, and having its own anchors will make it much better.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Crackmard (5.7+)
By: Baumer When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: There's a chance that I just described and added a photo for "Wishbone Crack," but based on a few factors, I don't think so (there's no boulder to sling up top, there appeared to be several other climbs to the south, and this seemed harder than 5.6 - my partner put it at 5.8). If I'm mistaken, let me know, and I'll add this photo to the correct route and remove this description. Thanks.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Emilia's Corner (5.8+)
By: Baumer When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: A bolt anchor (and some further cleaning) will make this a solid 2-star route. The walk-off to the left is a bit loose and sketchy.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Pennies and Piggydust (5.8-)
By: Baumer When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: I marked this as my FA because I found no evidence of previous ascents, and since the routes on either side seem to have been developed quite recently, it seemed reasonable. However, if this is your route, please do let me know.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Baumer When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I brought a #6 because, well, I own one and I've only placed it once before. Found a great spot for it up high...but you can sew it up just fine without. Two #4's and a #5 will get you through the crux.


Location: CO : Downtown Denver : Up to the Boss's Office (V2 M5- X)
By: Baumer When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: Teigon, maybe we should bolt it?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Zingando (5.5)
By: Baumer When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: My partner & I had a bit of a route-finding misadventure here. While the description of how to find the start is excellent, the description of P1 isn't quite so clear. She made "junky, somewhat dirty moves" straight up the slab to a lower roof that didn't go at 5.5. I took the lead, then wandered all over hell & back looking for the right-angling crack mentioned in P2. Turns out I had been below the correct roof, but the left-angling crack above it confused me. In any case, GO RIGHT AND UP THROU... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : E of East Slab East (5.7)
By: Baumer When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: I'm with Arlo. The fingercrack is the crux (I'd call it 5.7), and there was plenty of gear on the slab. Fun climb!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Kiddie Flow (Far Left) (WI1)
By: Baumer When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Ha HA! Love the Monty Python vid. Pretty much sums it up. The normal downclimb is further left.


Location: CO : Downtown Denver : Up to the Boss's Office (V2 M5- X)
By: Baumer When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Pfffft, FA, my ass. I was totally crushing this climb within weeks of the grand opening.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Miscellaneous Castlewood Bo... : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: Baumer When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: Ever since my attempt at the Little Devil, my days are filled with panicked flashes of the airy arete as I wander the office with a thousand-yard stare. At night, I toss and turn with acrophobic visions and cold sweats. When sleep finally comes...The Dream inevitably tears me from my slumber. I'm a twitching, wretched shell of a man, like a tormented character out of a Poe story.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Baumer When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: The direct start is absolutely the way to go. It's a fun little 5.4 flake/5.6 hand crack that takes you right up to the start (rather than walking down the loose, exposed Star Wars ledge), and when you rap off your pack is right there. This solves all of the problems mentioned in the route description!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Baumer When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: I found the bulge and the chimney to be fairly easy despite the lack of pro. The crack section, however, was very awkward and difficult for the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tigger (5.5)
By: Baumer When: Dec 13, 2010

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Comments: I'm surprised by the comments saying it's harder than Calypso; I found it easier. The roof move is maybe a bit heady but pretty easy to protect.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Doc's Route (5.7)
By: Baumer When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: If you have some bouldering experience, it's an easy enough lead to do with no pro to the first bolt.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads
By: Baumer When: Jul 18, 2009

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Comments: I had a bit of trouble finding Punk Rock because there were dozens of pseudo-roads (serious, steep 4-wheeling) to the right of the aspen grove. The one to follow is 216.