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Member Since: Sep 25, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 24, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 152 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvments | Comments 37 | Posts 1 | Stars 79 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ME : Acadia National Park
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone happen to know if the nice looking crack about 10 ft to the right of "Story of O" pitch 3 is "Vacation Cracks"? Wasn't 100% clear to me from the guidebook.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: I wish I'd just gone straight all the way up the corner and done the traverse at the top. I'm not sure where the diagonal route goes, but I ended up all over the place trying get gear in to protect the second. Also didn't think the anchor building options at either belay were that spectacular, which would probably suck if it was your first lead. Overall didn't find this climb to be all that anyways.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casa Emilio (5.4)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: We had come down that end to avoid the crowds, did this climb and then did "A long walk for man, a short climb for mankind". Both were mostly easy climbs with one or two harder moves, and if I were grading them probably would've put them at the same grade. It's all subjective. If your short, a key hold just out of reach might make a climb feel harder, and if you're tall, being scrunched traversing under a roof might feel harder. P1: dirty, really easy but not much pro, just be careful not to... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : A Long Walk For Man, A Shor... (5.4)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this Easter weekend because it was super busy up front. Fun route, climbed all the way to roof and traversed directly underneath, which felt easier than 5.4, except maybe the exit around the edge of the roof. It looked like traversing the face below the roof was possible, probably harder, and dirty. Gear was good. The belay is somewhat hanging under a massive tree though. A single 8ft sling wasn't enough to make it around it and get a knot in it. The rap anchor on that tree had 4 p... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Story of O (5.6)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: There is a nice looking crack to the right of the start of the 3rd pitch. Does anyone know what this is? It seems not far enough right for vacation cracks, but when I looked for vacation cracks from the description in the guidebook I wasn't sure I saw that either.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : 50-50 (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: First half of P1 was fun, and I didn't think the gear was too bad if you had small cams, but then it just turned into ledges with pine needles and rock with a little bit of green lichen with less interesting climbing. I think I ended up off route on P2, going through a bunch of spiderwebs and dirtiness. At one point I looked down an saw where I was probably supposed to go but didn't want to down climb. If you go about 50 ft to climbers right you can find the Ursula rap.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Bombardment (5.8)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Went back to try Age Before Beauty and couldn't quite get myself to trust my feet, but was able to cheat through it hauling on draws without too much trouble, so it is cheat-able. Worth it still, love that second pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: Found all pitches to be pretty fun and the protection to be G with the exception of the pitch 3 traverse. I kind of got a 00 mastercam in, but my girlfriend said when she cleaned it only one lobe was in. Not really a big deal since the traverse has good feet, but if you have a second who might get nervous on a traverse with a swing, might be scary for them. Might not be great with 2 seconds either. Going up through the notch felt awkward for the first move to me but was well protected and ea... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Harvard (5.2)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: Don't think this is a good climb for a new leader. A couple of awkward moves, ok gear, but almost a guarantee of rope drag. Other than the initial move through the slot, nothing exciting.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : The Saigons (5.8)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Was surprised that neither the old or new guidebook seems to mention the fact that you won't make it straight to the ground from P1 rings with a 60m. Anyone ever rap off the end of their rope there? Even with our 70m we had about 10' or so before ground (going straight down), so I went back up a bit and came down far left and could just hit the top of the dirt gully. Really fun face climbing though, P1 protects super-G at cruxes and P2 is still G, but if you fell from the crux before clipping... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Fun House (5.7)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Great route, protects plenty and especially where you need it. The start of the first pitch was a bit damp/slimy when we were there too, guessing it doesn't dry out as quickly as the rest of the route. Probably a good idea to anchor your belayer before starting P1, a bad slip on some dampness before your first piece could take you both for an unpleasant ride.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dennis (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I think he might be talking about the P2 variation that joins up to the top of Belly Roll. I unintentionally ended up doing that variation when I did it.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : lower slab
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: Went up the crack on the left side to get to Moravania. Very short, takes a few pieces, and felt more like 5.2. There was one bolt at the top. You can easily just walk up around the lower slab by going left and following a path up.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : Upper Slab and Upper Wall : Moraviana (5.7)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: P1 (from top of lower slabs up to railing) is probably only about 5.4. The 5.7 section is probably only the last 30 ft of P2. Takes plenty of pro where you needed it. There was a threaded rappel at the top when we were there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: P1 - I did end up in ledge fall potential momentarily after the pillar on this pitch. At some point you can lay back on a hold and jam a cam out left and you're good from there though. Climbing wasn't bad right there, so while a little freaky, not bad.

P2 - Very easy climbing for first half leading to a surprisingly fun finish.


Location: NH : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: Definitely a fun route and the gear was good. I thought the second pitch might have been a tad harder than the first, but still about 5.7. Ran into a little rope drag on second pitch.


Location: NH : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: Awesome, think that's my Saturday plan :). Did you do any of the 5.8's over there (e.g. Route 66 or Salted Packed Pig Sack)? Wondering if either of those are good protected routes to try too if there is time.


Location: NH : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: Any comment on how good the protection is on this climb? Looks like a lot of fun.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Bombardment (5.8)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the info Lee, that might be a better option for me to cheat through ;). I was on the dike, it was just the top that felt a tad thinner (could have been mental feeling like there was potential groundfall). I'm also 5'6", so maybe some get the jug to exit the slab a step earlier.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Bombardment (5.8)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: P1 was kind of sketchy (even w/doubles I think you are looking at potential groundfall?) and likely wouldn't do it again. Last few steps before exiting the runout slab seemed pretty thin. P2 was super fun, I only wish I had saved a .75 or 1 camalot for the top of the crack, ended up down climbing ~15ft to get the .75 so I'd have something good for what seemed like the crux to me. Also curious about the rating of the bolted route because I loved P2 but don't think I'd do P1 again.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: Thought the pro on the last pitch was a little sketchy actually, I don't know that I'd put a 5.4 leader on this. Good holds all the way, but also some more mentally challenging moves too. Fun, but not stellar in my opinion.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: Found P2 a good bit easier than P3. Maybe mostly mental, but also a little more burly? Had to get into more committing positions hoping the holds would be there but they always were. Hanging belay at the horizontal isn't that bad (all hand sized cams if I remember?), was kind of glad I stopped there rather than trying to run the two together (but 5.6 is also at my limit), although P1 and P2 might have been easily run together . Definitely a great fun climb!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Frog's Head (5.6)
By: Barrett Stetson When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: P1: Pretty fun, a few short crack moves.

P2: Only thing I didn't like was having to trust a pin right off of the belay, didn't see a way to back it up. But there were jugs pretty much all the way up, some good steep-ish sections, plenty of pro, very fun pitch. I went all the way to the top and my second couldn't hear me yelling from there, if you have walkies use them. Also, if you go all the way to the top, you miss an easy rappel station on the ledge before the very top off to the right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: P1: The block in the middle of pitch 1 does look a bit sketchy, I wouldn't put pro behind it and wouldn't have stepped on it if I didn't have to. Otherwise kind of interesting-ish moves I suppose.

P2: Belaying at the tree isn't a terribly comfortable belay, but I think I would've had severe rope drag trying to link the first 2 pitches. I hate having to trust a pin, and I was able to sort of get a 00 Mastercam in next to the pin, but I didn't want to fall on either. Was suprised to have to pu... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6) : Photo
By: Barrett Stetson When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: I believe the saying goes: "Red touch yellow, a poison fellow. Red touch black, a poison lack." At least to differentiate a poison coral snake from a harmless king snake.


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