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Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Witch (5.11b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: 16 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I deceiving little climb! I thought the crux was after the second bolt since I shot to the chains very easily. The crux move is tough, but once you figure out the correct movements the climb definately stays .11b...still hard for the grade though.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Flying off the Handle (5.12b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: 16 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid .12b IMO, The start is a little awkward and tricky but you soon get to easier climbing. Definitely clip the fourth bolt at your waist. Rest up at the large shelf 2/3 way up. The crux is the really small but positive crimp as you go for the chains and then throwing for a slopey hold. If your feet cut here then good luck. Clean fall zone.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Steep Thrills (5.12a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is in the middle as you pass through a few crimps. Lots of fun moves and full on pump fest!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard : Erection or Ejection (5.11d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is the hardest part on this one. Lots of great pockets with plently of slick feet. Keep fighting the pump til the next big rests and you'll bag this one in no time.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Watchtower : Step Right Up (5.12a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very sustained 5.12a with technical face climbing. The rock is very clean, and the hand holds are quite obvious. The feet however are a little tricky and require constantly trying to discern potential foot holds out of the solid smooth look of the rock (atypical AF style). The are two cruxes, with the first one right off the ground all the way to the second bolt. The second crux is from the 4th to the 6th bolt, where you encounter some balancy clips.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : The Monolith (5.11- V3 R)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is such an awesome line. Did this on gear and placed a 000 C3 at the very top of the seam, which only griped by 1 1/2 lobes... The crack is super easy, but pulling out of it takes some balls and is very beta intensive for an .11b. Although the gear is fairly shitty, your biggest fall will probably be only 5 feet since it gets easy right after the crux. If you're going to boulder it, then prepare for certain death if you fall at or above the crux.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Wall : Reaching for Razors (5.11d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pretty easy climb for the grade. Only two moves make it an .11d. Start on massive sidepulls to crimps. Throw high and fight to hang on to a sloper while clipping the 3rd draw. The crux is probably getting to the shelf above the 3rd draw, but is made easier by using a left drop-knee. After that stick it out on easy crimpy face climbing to the anchors.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror in Tiny Town (5.11a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one made Crack of Doom feel like a breeze. Jumped on it with a belly full of hot pizza and no warmup. Almost lost my pizza half way up it's that tough! All the gear was actually better than I originally thought it would be. The crack swallows all sorts of small cams and stoppers. The beginning is easier than it looks but it's smart to stickclip the bolt since a fall would most definitely break something. The crux is moving off the pedestal into the first 10ft of crack, however the cra... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Fat Lip (5.12a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A must do City sport climb! Start in a tiny seam on two small finger locks until you can reach the jugs. Throw some long runners in at the ledge traverse and fly up the crack. As soon as the crack runs out you're on bomber jugs and crimps until you get high and right. Your feet will run out and you'll have to make two back-to-back tricky transitions between awesome flakes. These moves alone give it four stars. The crux is obviously pulling the roof, but it actually would be really easy if ... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A hard hard climb for the grade. I did Fat Lip (.12a) an hour before this and Strategic Defense felt way harder for me and is definitely one of the scariest sport climbs I've done. The crux is between the first and second bolt which involves a barely featured section of slopey arete. A small slopey ledge (horizontal crack) provides a meager rest. Another hard move to get up to the large flake, and keep it together as it gets balancy up top despite the "featured look". A small 20ft runout wi... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Reach for the Sky (5.10b R)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A straight forward slab with the potential of a nasty cheese grader long fall. You can bring small peices to protect between the last bolt and the chains, or you can just bring your balls....it's only .10b so they don't need to be that big. A spotter to the first bolt is a smart idea.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Siesta (5.11b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A decent bolted line that'll leave you scratching your head at the rating. Actually only one move felt harder than .11b. Holds of all shapes and sizes, oh and don't fall going to that first clip.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Cairo (5.11a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one doesn't look like much from far away. Actually it doesn't look like much at all until you're actually on it making the moves. A fun short .11a with a definite crux. If you have good footwork you'll make quick work of this route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Division (5.11d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Division is such a satisfying climb! Start on easy big jugs up to a small roof. The crux would either be pulling the roof or the next few moves right afterward. Beautiful fall zone. As always in AF, polished feet through the crux so you're always about to pop. A hard climb, but not .12a just a tricky .11d
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Little Mill Area : Pig Pen (5.12a/b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've said this about several climbs in American Fork but I'll say it again, a must do classic! Boone Speed really hit the mark with this one. Easiest approach in the canyon. Start on a verticle face up to the high first bolt right at the beginning of the overhang. The face is littered with positive holds, but nothing but big moves will leave you pumped. Making dropknees your best friend will make this one a cinch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Arm and Hammer (5.11c)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route! If you think the slab is hard on this one than do Cymbals of the Sun. The Zion Curtain definitely makes it worth it but sadly you shoot up it within 30 seconds. You almost want to rappel and do it again.
You can reach the ground with a double rope rappel on 60m ropes from the belay station right before the curtain.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Cymbals Of The Sun (5.11+)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy Shit this is HARD! You've got to have faith that you can walk on air. Unfortunately I did it in the middle of a hot summer day so everything was slicker than a minnow's dick.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Steel Monkey (5.10d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion there's only one move that makes it .10d
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : License To Thrill (5.11c)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a stellar climb and spot on for the grade! The climbing is steep and pumpy from the beginning all the way to the roof. There is a fantastic rest right under the roof. As soon as you commit to pull over the roof you'll come to another nice rest. The crux for me was as you begin to traverse right above the roof on a few slopey holds. The last clip is pretty much useless! A few of the pockets on the first half are fairly dirty. For 5.11 this is an AF must do!!!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Funky Bolt (5.9 R)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was only able to get a few pieces of gear in the lower half that I actually felt confident about. The fact that the two bolts are so close to each other, and that one is old and badly bent tells me that someone probably took a huge whipper off the runout section and gave the older bolt hell. There's room for bigger gear on the second half. I threw in a #1 Camalot before making the 40ft runout to the horn. If you want there are a few small chicken heads that you can sling on the runou... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Just Another Pretty Face (5.10c)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow what a fun scary climb! The first 3 bolts are scary as hell, then take a long break on top of the chickenhead before scrambling out onto the crux slab. The rest is easy.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Skyline (5.8)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 5.8 in the City!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Liquid Oxygen (5.12a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably still .12a but bouldery as hell, so I'd give it a hard .12a The crux is definitely the middle section and involves BIG moves on some really shitty holds, with the occasional bomber pocket. I agree with crisco that the last bit is nothing more than keeping it together, just don't blow it at the chains or you're in for a moderate fall. Find your feet quick cause your hands won't last long, keep moving til the chains are clipped! This one is getting a little slick.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Deep End (5.11a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm surprised this doesn't receive a solid 4 stars. What a great route. Different than most AF routes because you only have a small handful of pockets on the entire route. Most of the climb involves moving from crimp to crimp while trying to fight the burn. There are a few places that you can get solid rests if you can find them. I was skeptical at first and avoided this route because it almost looks chipped, however I'm glad I finally got on it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : The Atheist (5.11b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd say the rating is spot on for this climb. It starts off on huge jugs and runs straight its entire length. Halfway up you can do a wide stemming almost no-hands rest just at the small dihedral. The crux is most certainly at the top where the pockets seem to vanish forcing you to crimp, gaston, and even pull two monos if you want them. More endurance than anything due to it's length.
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