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Bad Sock Puppet


Member Since: Jun 22, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 26, 2013
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Point Rank: # 1,060
Total Points: 595
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41 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 601 | Routes 24 | Areas 5 | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 105 | Posts 108 | Stars 193 | Ratings 131
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Total Recall (5.11d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: Surprisingly cool route!! It's definitely a solid 5.11 but not a stout .11d by any means:

- High 1st bolt but easy climbing (easy 5.10 climbing)
- 1st to 2nd bolt: deep slot pockets that are bomber
- 2nd to 3rd bolt: first crux (.11c/d) section with a sick sequence!
- 3rd to 4th bolt: delicate climbing that eases up as you mantle the shelf
- 4th to 5th bolt: excellent holds that lead to a nice left-facing, crescent-shaped sidepull
- 5th bolt: Pumped? No worries, down climb to shelf to s... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Little Mill Area : Patty Baby (5.10b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: If you botch the first 2 bolts on Patty Baby, then you may break your shins before you deck! :) Read the description in the Ruckman guide! Quick warm-up before jumping on Pigpen!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Pocket Change (5.11a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This is the perfect route for the 5.10 climber trying to break into the 5.11 level.

1st bolt - 4th bolt: .10a pocket pulling to a no-hands-rest ledge
5th bolt: clip 5th bolt/shake out on ledge/chalk up
5th bolt - 6th bolt: .10b/pockets thin out/excellent climbing
6th bolt - 7th bolt: .10+/enter dihedral and crux sequence/stem your feet
7th bolt - chains: .11a/continue up dihedral/keep stemming and trust feet/chains in excellent condition!

Everyone is giving it a 5.11a, but this... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Revenge of the Nerds (5.11a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: Throw a C3 with a very long runner at the first gear placement then follow bolts up the arete. Just trust your feet. Sliced/Core-shot my Glider 9.9 on this one.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: This route never ends, but fortunately there are plenty of rest right when you need them the most. Takes lots of small gear; never used anything larger then 0.5 camalot. As far as rock canyon and quartzite goes, this route aint half bad.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Cranial Prophylactic (5.8)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Oct 9, 2010

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Comments: I give it a 5.7 just because I thought it was a little soft compared to other 5.8's i've done in the canyon. Still it's a clean short route. Finger size gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Looney Tunes (5.11b R)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Oct 9, 2010

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Comments: This is definitely a classic! The crux is the bottom, however I found plenty of places to set cams down low if you want to protect it well. In other words it's only an R if you want it to be. Very clean route. Unforgetable moves with bomber holds just when you need them most. I didn't use anything bigger than a 0.4 Camalot.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : The Monolith (5.11- V3 R)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Jul 24, 2010

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Comments: Ian if I was half the man you are I might consider myself blessed, but just for the record I do move left to the black chicken head despite getting near the right arete. So in conclusion there is only one way to top out.


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Wailing Wall : Heretic Wisdom (5.12a/b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Feb 22, 2010

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Comments: Don't under estimate this one from first glance. A long sustained finish will keep you on the edge.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Dec 20, 2009

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Comments: 5.10c-5.11a. I'll let someone who's at that level decide since the difference isn't as clear anymore. The truth is it's easy and it's a great warm up if you're going to hop on anything inside the cave.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Pinching Bird Shit (5.11c)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Dec 20, 2009

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Comments: Not as cool as Banana Dance but definitely deserves to be climbed. The crux is between the second and third clip where you encounter a sloper and a crimp on an otherwise jug haul. The top hold is pretty sandy.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Banana Dance (5.11d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Dec 19, 2009

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Comments: A truly sick climb! I thought the beginning was the hardest part with the crux somewhere around the third clip. Big throws from jug to jug. Lots of heelhooks makes for good rests, plus with a bomber hold everytime you need one you should send this easily.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Witch (5.11b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Nov 27, 2009

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Comments: I deceiving little climb! I thought the crux was after the second bolt since I shot to the chains very easily. The crux move is tough, but once you figure out the correct movements the climb definately stays .11b...still hard for the grade though.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Flying off the Handle (5.12b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Nov 27, 2009

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Comments: Solid .12b IMO, The start is a little awkward and tricky but you soon get to easier climbing. Definitely clip the fourth bolt at your waist. Rest up at the large shelf 2/3 way up. The crux is the really small but positive crimp as you go for the chains and then throwing for a slopey hold. If your feet cut here then good luck. Clean fall zone.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Steep Thrills (5.12a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: Crux is in the middle as you pass through a few crimps. Lots of fun moves and full on pump fest!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Erection or Ejection (5.11d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: The start is the hardest part on this one. Lots of great pockets with plently of slick feet. Keep fighting the pump til the next big rests and you'll bag this one in no time.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Watchtower : Step Right Up (5.12a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: Very sustained 5.12a with technical face climbing. The rock is very clean, and the hand holds are quite obvious. The feet however are a little tricky and require constantly trying to discern potential foot holds out of the solid smooth look of the rock (atypical AF style). The are two cruxes, with the first one right off the ground all the way to the second bolt. The second crux is from the 4th to the 6th bolt, where you encounter some balancy clips.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : The Monolith (5.11- V3 R)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: This is such an awesome line. Did this on gear and placed a 000 C3 at the very top of the seam, which only griped by 1 1/2 lobes... The crack is super easy, but pulling out of it takes some balls and is very beta intensive for an .11b. Although the gear is fairly shitty, your biggest fall will probably be only 5 feet since it gets easy right after the crux. If you're going to boulder it, then prepare for certain death if you fall at or above the crux.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Wall : Reaching for Razors (5.11d)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 22, 2009

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Comments: A pretty easy climb for the grade. Only two moves make it an .11d. Start on massive sidepulls to crimps. Throw high and fight to hang on to a sloper while clipping the 3rd draw. The crux is probably getting to the shelf above the 3rd draw, but is made easier by using a left drop-knee. After that stick it out on easy crimpy face climbing to the anchors.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: This one made Crack of Doom feel like a breeze. Jumped on it with a belly full of hot pizza and no warmup. Almost lost my pizza half way up it's that tough! All the gear was actually better than I originally thought it would be. The crack swallows all sorts of small cams and stoppers. The beginning is easier than it looks but it's smart to stickclip the bolt since a fall would most definitely break something. The crux is moving off the pedestal into the first 10ft of crack, however the cra... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Fat Lip (5.12a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: A must do City sport climb! Start in a tiny seam on two small finger locks until you can reach the jugs. Throw some long runners in at the ledge traverse and fly up the crack. As soon as the crack runs out you're on bomber jugs and crimps until you get high and right. Your feet will run out and you'll have to make two back-to-back tricky transitions between awesome flakes. These moves alone give it four stars. The crux is obviously pulling the roof, but it actually would be really easy if ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: A hard hard climb for the grade. I did Fat Lip (.12a) an hour before this and Strategic Defense felt way harder for me and is definitely one of the scariest sport climbs I've done. The crux is between the first and second bolt which involves a barely featured section of slopey arete. A small slopey ledge (horizontal crack) provides a meager rest. Another hard move to get up to the large flake, and keep it together as it gets balancy up top despite the "featured look". A small 20ft runout wi... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Reach for the Sky (5.10b R)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: A straight forward slab with the potential of a nasty cheese grader long fall. You can bring small peices to protect between the last bolt and the chains, or you can just bring your balls....it's only .10b so they don't need to be that big. A spotter to the first bolt is a smart idea.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Siesta (5.11b)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: A decent bolted line that'll leave you scratching your head at the rating. Actually only one move felt harder than .11b. Holds of all shapes and sizes, oh and don't fall going to that first clip.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Cairo (5.11a)
By: Bad Sock Puppet When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: This one doesn't look like much from far away. Actually it doesn't look like much at all until you're actually on it making the moves. A fun short .11a with a definite crux. If you have good footwork you'll make quick work of this route.


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