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Member Since: Jul 27, 2012
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact A.wilk


Point Rank: # 6,954
Total Points: 46
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 11
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has A.wilk been climbing?










Contributions


All 312 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 15 | Stars 144 | Ratings 132
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Indian Summer Arete

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2)

TR, 1 pitch, 40'

MA : Rose Ledge

Apr 8, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Assorted goodies

Assorted goodies

FOR SALE / Wanted : FS: Assorted biners, tricam...

Nov 6, 2014

A lot of carabiners

A lot of carabiners

FOR SALE / Wanted : FS: Assorted biners, tricam...

Nov 6, 2014

Looking down from the chimney on P2

Looking down from the chimney on P2

NY : The Gunks : ... : Updraft (5.5)

Jun 26, 2013

5.9 on the right of the arete.  5.10 using the cra...

5.9 on the right of the arete. 5.10 using the crack to the left of the arete then back right towards the top. 5.12 using the crack to the left and going straight up to the bolts.

MA : Rose Ledge : Indian Summer Arete (5.9)

Apr 8, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Western Coastal Slope : West Rock State Park : South Buttress : Ballfield Slabs : Nickle And Dime (5.9)
By: A.wilk When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: A couple of hand size cams are more than enough to protect the traditional start. Tons of little rocks on top of P1 so be careful topping out and pulling the rope after rapping. I was a little confused as to where the line was around the 4th bolt. It seemed difficult to head straight up or right of the bolt so I ended up jogging up slightly left and staying there until the top.


Location: MA : Mormon Hollow : 13. (Central Buttress Far L... (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Jul 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Russ, the climb you are speaking of is #19 on the Mormon Hollow page. It is super fun with a thin thin thin start. This climb is closer to Original Sin and is on the left side of a dirty face. It has quite a few bolts and is probably the easiest and safest (can plug gear between bolts if desired) lead at Mormon.


Location: MA : Happy Valley and The Hideaw... : The Happy Valley : Sleeping Giant Boulder : The Sleeping Giant (V5)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As of June 1, 2014, there is a birds nest with two small nestlings on a shelf below the start of The Sleeping Giant. Please don't climb this problem for a while until the birds are grown and the nest is abandoned.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Trifle (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: Apr 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch of this is definitely worth doing. The climbing up to the traverse is easy, the traverse protects very well and it ends with a nice jughaul up to a pine tree rap station. Great way to really appreciate good ol' gunks traversing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a surprisingly fun short climb to do if you are in the area. I thought the gear got a little tricky about halfway up where there are two shallow, pebbly pockets.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: P1 has a lot of committing 5.6 moves over gear and is fun all the way through.

P2 is very spicy until the overhang. You can wiggle in small pieces here and there but for much of the face below the roof you are in ledge fall territory. The crux and rest of the climb protects well, however.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Updraft (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I found this climb to be fun bottom to top. The first pitch is super easy jug hauling with a couple interesting moves in the middle. The second pitch starts out easy and then gets pretty stiff for the 20' before the chimney. Once up in the chimney it was extremely fun but it gets pretty tight up towards the top. Lots of grunting and cursing can be expected if you are a bigger climber


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great climb from the ground up. P1 is one of those long pitches that just keeps giving. Great holds, moves, and gear all the way to the GT ledge. Then P2 starts the real fun. Some easy climbing up to the roof. The incredible traverse to follow. And then when you think you are in the clear you get some more tricky moves all the way to the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Double Chin (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Very fun and worth a shot if its open. The first roof is pretty easy to get around but the second one gives you a good challenge. Well protected too so you can't get much better.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Fun crack and super well protected. Just be careful if there is a bird's nest in the pod below the tree and the bird is still around.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Great route, best to get on it early before the Uberfall gets crowded. I found the first little roof to be a little trickier and more thought provoking than the second one, but that could just be me.


Location: MA : Rose Ledge : Indian Summer Arete (5.9)
By: A.wilk When: Apr 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If anyone has any info about the FA, I would love to add that in.

I added this because it is a great route that should have a picture and a page. I only gave it two stars because the right side of the arete is a little dirty, especially at the top, and I wish it was longer.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13)
By: A.wilk When: Mar 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, nice rock, and NO crowds. The first pitch starts off super easy with sparse pro and as you go higher it gets gradually more difficult (maybe only a couple 5.3 moves near the pin.

We linked the second and third pitches (not including the walk along the GT ledge) and it was well worth it. Just extend everything you put in and enjoy those airy traverses!

Overall, quality route if you're sick of the uberfall crowds. And its fun to gawk at all the shiny pro and crazy moves on Twi... more >>


Location: CT : Western Highlands : St. John's Ledges : Upper Ledges : Super Slab (5.5 X)
By: A.wilk When: Dec 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely a fun slab although I haven't led it. Pick your line up it and if I remember correctly going straight up the center-left is the most devoid of features and most difficult. The only really decent gear you could get is in a long horizontal crack about 15 feet off the deck.

Unlike the description says you can TR it with a 60m rope although you should extend your anchor as far as you can to make sure the rope reaches the ground. Belaying from up top is an option if you don't want to ris... more >>


Location: CT : Western Highlands : St. John's Ledges : Upper Ledges : Trail Magic (5.8+)
By: A.wilk When: Dec 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route, pulling the first bulge can be a little tricky. The crux is fun and you have to commit. Once the crack opens back up it is easier all the way to the top.

Walk off to the right down through a gully or rappel station directly to the left. (not sure on its condition now)


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Ancient Way (5.4)
By: A.wilk When: Dec 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: All the other comments are spot on. The beginning is a little hard to protect but after that there is plenty of gear. Great climb with good stances to place pro and lots of fun moves in between.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Got benighted on Madame G's at the Gunks - left about 8 pieces behind!Lost and FoundA.wilk20 hours ago
re: FS: Assorted biners, tricams, stoppers, shoes, etcFOR SALE / WantedA.wilkNov 15, 2014
re: FS: Assorted biners, tricams, stoppers, shoes, etcFOR SALE / WantedA.wilkNov 10, 2014
re: Guidance on filling out my rackClimbing Gear DiscussionA.wilkNov 10, 2014
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