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Member Since: Jul 27, 2012
Last Visit: 41 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 7,934
Total Points: 35
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has A.wilk been climbing?










Contributions


All 265 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 9 | Stars 124 | Ratings 114
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Indian Summer Arete

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2)

TR, 1 pitch, 40'

MA : Rose Ledge

Apr 8, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Looking down from the chimney on P2

Looking down from the chimney on P2

NY : The Gunks : ... : Updraft (5.5)

Jun 26, 2013

5.9 on the right of the arete. <br /> <br />5.10 using the crack to the left of the arete then back right towards the top. <br /> <br />5.12 using the crack to the left and going straight up to the bolts.

5.9 on the right of the arete. 5.10 using the crack to the left of the arete then back right towards the top. 5.12 using the crack to the left and going straight up to the bolts.

MA : Rose Ledge : Indian Summer Arete (5.9)

Apr 8, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Mormon Hollow : 13. (Central Buttress Far L... (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Jul 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Russ, the climb you are speaking of is #19 on the Mormon Hollow page. It is super fun with a thin thin thin start. This climb is closer to Original Sin and is on the left side of a dirty face. It has quite a few bolts and is probably the easiest and safest (can plug gear between bolts if desired) lead at Mormon.


Location: MA : Happy Valley and The Hideaw... : The Happy Valley : Sleeping Giant Boulder : The Sleeping Giant (V5)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: As of June 1, 2014, there is a birds nest with two small nestlings on a shelf below the start of The Sleeping Giant. Please don't climb this problem for a while until the birds are grown and the nest is abandoned.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Trifle (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch of this is definitely worth doing. The climbing up to the traverse is easy, the traverse protects very well and it ends with a nice jughaul up to a pine tree rap station. Great way to really appreciate good ol' gunks traversing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a surprisingly fun short climb to do if you are in the area. I thought the gear got a little tricky about halfway up where there are two shallow, pebbly pockets.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: P1 has a lot of committing 5.6 moves over gear and is fun all the way through.

P2 is very spicy until the overhang. You can wiggle in small pieces here and there but for much of the face below the roof you are in ledge fall territory. The crux and rest of the climb protects well, however.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Updraft (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: I found this climb to be fun bottom to top. The first pitch is super easy jug hauling with a couple interesting moves in the middle. The second pitch starts out easy and then gets pretty stiff for the 20' before the chimney. Once up in the chimney it was extremely fun but it gets pretty tight up towards the top. Lots of grunting and cursing can be expected if you are a bigger climber


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6)
By: A.wilk When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: This is a great climb from the ground up. P1 is one of those long pitches that just keeps giving. Great holds, moves, and gear all the way to the GT ledge. Then P2 starts the real fun. Some easy climbing up to the roof. The incredible traverse to follow. And then when you think you are in the clear you get some more tricky moves all the way to the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Double Chin (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Very fun and worth a shot if its open. The first roof is pretty easy to get around but the second one gives you a good challenge. Well protected too so you can't get much better.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Fun crack and super well protected. Just be careful if there is a bird's nest in the pod below the tree and the bird is still around.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: A.wilk When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Great route, best to get on it early before the Uberfall gets crowded. I found the first little roof to be a little trickier and more thought provoking than the second one, but that could just be me.


Location: MA : Rose Ledge : Indian Summer Arete (5.9)
By: A.wilk When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: If anyone has any info about the FA, I would love to add that in.

I added this because it is a great route that should have a picture and a page. I only gave it two stars because the right side of the arete is a little dirty, especially at the top, and I wish it was longer.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13)
By: A.wilk When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Great route, nice rock, and NO crowds. The first pitch starts off super easy with sparse pro and as you go higher it gets gradually more difficult (maybe only a couple 5.3 moves near the pin.

We linked the second and third pitches (not including the walk along the GT ledge) and it was well worth it. Just extend everything you put in and enjoy those airy traverses!

Overall, quality route if you're sick of the uberfall crowds. And its fun to gawk at all the shiny pro and crazy moves on Twi... more >>


Location: CT : Northwest : St. John's Ledges : Upper Ledges : Super Slab (5.5 X)
By: A.wilk When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Definitely a fun slab although I haven't led it. Pick your line up it and if I remember correctly going straight up the center-left is the most devoid of features and most difficult. The only really decent gear you could get is in a long horizontal crack about 15 feet off the deck.

Unlike the description says you can TR it with a 60m rope although you should extend your anchor as far as you can to make sure the rope reaches the ground. Belaying from up top is an option if you don't want to ris... more >>


Location: CT : Northwest : St. John's Ledges : Upper Ledges : Trail Magic (5.8+)
By: A.wilk When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, pulling the first bulge can be a little tricky. The crux is fun and you have to commit. Once the crack opens back up it is easier all the way to the top.

Walk off to the right down through a gully or rappel station directly to the left. (not sure on its condition now)


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Ancient Way (5.4)
By: A.wilk When: Dec 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: All the other comments are spot on. The beginning is a little hard to protect but after that there is plenty of gear. Great climb with good stances to place pro and lots of fun moves in between.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: grey and purple mastercams in horizontals?Climbing Gear DiscussionA.wilkApr 14, 2014
re: Let's get the stoke going!!!Eastern StatesA.wilkApr 12, 2014
re: Let's get the stoke going!!!Eastern StatesA.wilkApr 12, 2014
re: master cam redesign General ClimbingA.wilkApr 12, 2014
re: Bald Rock Basin in CTEastern StatesA.wilkMar 31, 2014
re: Climbing in the Gunks todayEastern StatesA.wilkMar 9, 2014
re: Racking your cordelette.Climbing Gear DiscussionA.wilkMar 6, 2014
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