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On the uphill side of the trail, near the first se...


Member Since: Oct 29, 2012
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Total Points: 119
Last Year: 50
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 160 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 5 | Stars 51 | Ratings 37
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Crystal Meth (5.12)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Cool little route: grab a jug, clip a bolt, then throw to another jug. Repeat. on my first run I pulled off a pretty big flake that I was using as an undercling, just right of the starting jug. However, after looking at the pictures on here it doesn't seem like people were using this anyways. The last few moves to the anchors are definitely the crux, with the second to last (for me) being especially hard (Beta spoiler: it's another big throw, but to a little two-finger two-pad crystal).
Not to d... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : The Eagle's Gift (5.11c/d)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 1 day ago

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Comments: The climbing isn't too hard, but the beta isn't very obvious. This would definitely be a tricky onsight. Good route with some really fun movement and an awesome quartz pinch up high. Our party knocked loose rock off on pretty much every run we took on it, although with more traffic it should clean up well.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Naranja (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Wonderful route. The climbing, although consistent in difficulty, isn't all that sustained (you're stemming the whole way, so rests abound). The crux is tricky, but not too hard (felt easier than Histoplasmosis).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 21st Century Finger Crack (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Although less visually striking than its neighbor, the climbing on this thing is, in my opinion, better (quasi-beta spoiler: I really like dynos, and this climb has one). As Geir noted, it's pretty easy to climb around the crack if it's damp.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This climb is outstanding! Both starting options are awesome (the finger crack is perhaps a bit better, imo), the second pitch is just pure fun on super steep jugs, and the third is airy with a devious crux. I'm fairly certain that the second pitch could turn almost any sport climber to the dark side. If you're climbing at the grade, get on it!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Swept Away (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Eric,
You're right, it wasn't a great idea to jug the rope. But all's well that ends well, I suppose.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Swept Away (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Did the first pitch a few days ago after getting a rope stuck on Rapture. I found the direction of travel to be non-obvious past the layback flake. After some deliberation I decided not to head left (the proper way), because of the greenery growing out of the feature, and instead went right to a short handcrack that goes directly through the roof. Unfortunately this crack disappears into a lichen-covered face. Fell off, hung for a bit, then went left. The climbing out left is really cool, but th... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Geirful Warrior (5.11-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: Led this "clean" for the onsight with nuts and hexes (and one micro cam). A good blue metolius and a bomber nut fit in a few feet above the large flake thing, and then nothing to the top. I suppose you may be able to sling something or finagle some gear in up higher, but the climbing is pretty easy and on mostly huge holds. Given some of the other gear routes I've done on Lemmon it's actually kind of surprising that this thing has any bolts on it.
As for the rating, .11-/10+ seems generous. Eith... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: This thing doesn't look like much from the base, but what an awesome route once you're in it! There was one fixed BD .5, and two fixed plastic nuts (what the hell?). I clipped the higher nut, mostly as a novelty.
As for the rating: two days earlier I came extremely close to onsighting Separate Reality (botched the beta before the jug, damn it!) and a day before cruised up the Bat Crack. I managed the onsight on this, but it was by no means cruiser. b/c seems about right.
Also, no bees at the b... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: With a 70m link 1&2, 3&4, 5&6 (although minimal gear will need to be placed on 5). Some simul-climbing is beneficial from 7 to the Robbin's traverse. Do the tunnel trough on P11: spectacular position and climbing (however, the exit moves are fairly committing and would be rather hard to aid without hooks). Link all of the chimneys (12,13,14) and don't squeeze! It was unprotected, crazy strenuous, and you have to exit right anyways. Also, if you think you can do it in a day then go for it, it's d... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Oppositional Defiance Disor... (5.9)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: I think I did this? I had meant to do Run Like Hell, but I guess I just wasn't paying attention and ended up climbing something to it's left (anxious to climb/get out of the sun, I suppose). At a certain point I stepped right into a small corner with two pitons, which led to a right-leaning flake/crack and eventually the anchors of Run Like Hell on my right. The description here indicates moving left each time that I moved right, hmm. Whatever I did, though, was pretty fun and a good warm up. Fe... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Hairlip BJ Ecstasy (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: The strangeness of this route's name is almost commensurate to the climbing it involves. The rock quality to start is not great, but gets better as you approach the roof via fun, thoughtful climbing. The moves over the roof are bizarre (beta spoiler: they involve making a big dynamic move from a heel hook too a somewhat insecure handjam). After the roof the climbing stays hard and doesn't really let up until some nice jugs at the very end. As for the rating: the guide that I was working off of (... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chicken Co-op (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: A great way to get the blood flowing in the morning! Felt easier than the second pitch of Abracadaver, which is supposed to be .10a/b (I think). Anyways, it's not as hard as .10 offwidth would suggest (in fact, I'm more inclined to give the lower, sporty, section a harder rating than the offwidth). The key to making the offwidth not-so-bad (spoiler) is to get your right leg horizontal and wedge it way back.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! It felt sort of like I was sport climbing on finger-locks and hand-jams. As for the gear: below the bolts I used a #1 bd, two large stoppers, and a #1 and a #2 Metolius, all of which were bomber (especially the stoppers!). I took the aforementioned right-hand exit above the bolts and found three really good placements: two small hexes and one larger stopper.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Mr. Meanor (5.8+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Forgoing the crimps around the crack makes for nice, thoughtful movement (and, so say I, better climbing).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Armed Robbery (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: A good route, although it didn't quite live up to its hype for me. The upper section, in particular, wasn't very enjoyable. That being said, the first few moves are pretty great and the very short lived finger-lock is cool.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Safecracker (5.11a/b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route that protects perfectly well on just nuts. Also, as of today there is a small nut fixed just below the crux (My partner didn't try cleaning it, so I'm not sure how hard it would be to get out).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Off Scott Free (5.9+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Delicate little bit of slab to start (we began right below the "bowl" and did not use the disconnected slab that rests against the wall). As noted, a single nut placement helps mitigate the space between bolts (a #7 bd, the little-ish red one, for us).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: What's the deal with the start? Is the bottom section of the crack now supposed to go on gear, or are the bolts simply waiting to be replaced?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Crime and Punishment (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Got on this today after some time up at the goosehead. Great climb with lots of variation. I came off just after trying to head straight up off the bolt. Hung for a minute then tried heading slightly right (to a little fingerlock-able v-slot) which was much easier, but still a bit tricky.
Also, I noticed that in some comments it sounds like people are heading left after the bolt to the low set of anchors. Is this the intended finish? Heading up to the big ledge and the higher anchors definitely... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Goosed But Smilin' (5.11-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Pretty strenuous crux, but really cool movement. I was able to get a good #1 in below the pin and a #2 Metolius above it. I linked p1 and p2, which made for a pretty exciting route overall, and I wouldn't really recommend doing it this way unless you like big runouts on slab with horrible rope drag.If you do link the two, save a draw for the top of the last pitch. I didn't have any left and ended up running a nut through the bolt for pro.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Palms Down (5.10- PG13)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Did the first pitch only. Started further left, beneath a right-leaning crack that converges with the main line. It looked better than standing in a tree to start, but probably wasn't (cornflake rock, bushes, meh). The climbing in the main system is really funky, but mostly cool. I ended up doing some weird stuff up high that was sort of hard. However, (beta spoiler?) my partner found a decent hold hidden behind a little shrub which made the sequence much easier.
There is pretty good gear throug... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: Got on this a few days ago. Felt slightly harder than Stealin', although it may have been because I started up too far right and ended up having to downclimb and traverse back into the proper line. Definitely not a horrible route, but nothing special either.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Pitfalls of Hesitation (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: We ended up starting at the base of the spire for the first pitch and ending just above the roof, at the first bolted anchors. It may be advisable to build a belay below the roof if you start as low as we did: with only two pieces in before the roof the rope drag was still pretty bad (although I did have a tag line). The obvious line for the second pitch heads straight up off of the belay through a few small roofs and into a right-leaning hand crack. We took this line and felt that it was fairly... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Stealin (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun route to do after Valentine. I got on it without knowing the grade, and when I was finished assumed it was 10+/11-. Granted, if you move far enough to the right so as to stem on the face of valentine, it's probably a bit easier (so don't stem?). Oh, and the roof is way easier than it looks from the ground, so don't let it scare you.


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