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On the uphill side of the trail, near the first se...


Member Since: Oct 29, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 4,579
Total Points: 97
Last Year: 31
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 90 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts 5 | Stars 23 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Got on this a few days ago. Felt slightly harder than Stealin', although it may have been because I started up too far right and ended up having to downclimb and traverse back into the proper line. Definitely not a horrible route, but nothing special either.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Pitfalls of Hesitation (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 2 days ago

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Comments: We ended up starting at the base of the spire for the first pitch and ending just above the roof, at the first bolted anchors. It may be advisable to build a belay below the roof if you start as low as we did: with only two pieces in before the roof the rope drag was still pretty bad (although I did have a tag line). The obvious line for the second pitch heads straight up off of the belay through a few small roofs and into a right-leaning hand crack. We took this line and felt that it was fairly... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Stealin (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun route to do after Valentine. I got on it without knowing the grade, and when I was finished assumed it was 10+/11-. Granted, if you move far enough to the right so as to stem on the face of valentine, it's probably a bit easier (so don't stem?). Oh, and the roof is way easier than it looks from the ground, so don't let it scare you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Gorgeous route.
First pitch: super enjoyable climbing up a mellow and highly-featured dihedral.
Second pitch: I made the mistake(?) of climbing out right to two bolts and then back left to the bolt that actually belongs to the route. The climbing didn't seem any harder than 5.9 (which isn't to say that doing it this way doesn't introduce more 5.9 crux moves, but whatever). It may just be that I'm not used to sandstone slab (I'm not), but from the belay it really isn't obvious where to go, so th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Atman (5.10a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Really fun little route. Tight hands to perfect hands to wide hands/perfect hands further back. #3 isn't necessary, although can be used for an anchor if you run out of #2s (which you will need two of at most).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Yin and Yang (5.10d)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Anyone who calls Atman harder than Yin and Yang has betrayed their status as a sport climber.
Super fun route. Felt easier (although "sportier") than Risk Brothers. 10c/d seems fair.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! If only it were three times as long. A previous comment recommended 2-3 #3s, which doesn't make much sense: I didn't place a single #3. Two #2s and one #1 for the roof is more than sufficient. Bring a .5 and a .75 for the finger crack before the roof, and maybe another .75 for your belayer.
The crack through the roof has enough variation so as not to make the grade size dependent: both my partner and I had pretty much perfect hands throughout the roof (@POU... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: What an awesome route! First pitch is harder than it looks from the ground (awkward/insecure), second pitch is not as bad as it looks (I haven't done a great many offwidths, but it felt closer to 5.9/5.9+ than 10), third pitch is just so much fun, but not as pumpy as I had expected (lots of good stemming available). It was insanely windy when we did the route, and it definitely made the fourth and fifth pitches feel harder (so windy that I almost got blown off some of the thinner moves). The fir... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Centerpiece (5.10-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Upper crack was tight hands for me. 10-/10 seems right on. Smaller hands would definitely ease up the crux.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Jungle Gym (5.10c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Good, exciting climbing. The bottom was slightly more strenuous than it looked, although I may have just chosen bad beta. I took the right side exit and was able to get a questionable .75 in for the last section.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Stoner's Boner (5.9)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Good fun. If you have occasion to not rappel, the walk off the back takes no more than 5 minutes to get back to the base of the route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Standard Route (5.7)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: To reiterate points regarding some previous comments: I don't know if the mantle(s) on P1 are 5.7 or not. However, if they are harder (by which standard?) then apply Jerry Cagle's comment. I'm offering this simply for the sake of those who would like to climb the route but may be tentative about the mantles (due to prior comments).
Also, the "death crawl" is entirely unnecessary. In fact, I realized only once I finished the route that I never engaged in any distinctly chuckwalla-like movement. ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Squaretop : Cragaholic's Dream (5.10c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful route. A number six is really not necessary, nor are triples of 2-3. We did the second pith with three fours and no five. Although a five would have been nice, the climbing is fairly easy and takes fours throughout. The third pitch is probably harder than the second, if you have short legs.
The only negative: the rappels are horrible. We almost got our rope stuck on the second rap and actually got it stuck on the last.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Monster Buck (5.12-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Really fun route with balance intensive movement throughout. 12a is about right for me, 11d (as per two other ratings) seems like quite the sandbag. However, elevation may have played a large role given that I'm generally a Phoenix climber. Either way, if it's within your limit then definitely give it a go! I personally found the crux to be right after the roof, but I may have been missing a better sequence.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle : South of No North (5.12b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Although the arete stumped me... is the route intended to follow the right or left side of it?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : East Verde : The Library : Modern Day Cowboy (5.11c/d)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: Really great climb. 11c seems about right, although an on-sight attempt may be worthy of a 12a (it would be quite tricky to find the last move without any beta). If you're at the Library, give it a shot!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Lord Humongous (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Really fun! When it starts to get hard just look for a jug, they're there.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Sessions (5.12a) : Photo
By: Austin Sobotka When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Aaron, awesome picture!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Oak Flats : Atlantis : Flake Orgasm (V3)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: If this is a v3, then every 5.11 at queen creek is a 5.10-


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Middle Section : Bird of Prey (5.11b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: A beautiful line, which, in light of its imposing appearance, protects perfectly with gear, and is supplemented with a bolt wherever protection is either non-existent or would be questionable. I did only the first pitch, per the first ascensionist's recommendation, and couldn't imagine the second being even comparable in quality. The existing pictures come far from doing this line justice.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7) : Photo
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Isn't that why we climb in the first place?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Hot Line (5.10b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Did this climb some 4 months ago with Manny. Really awesome line (although my memory may be more fond due to the fact that i had always wanted to lead it and somehow got it clean first try). Need to go back and climb it again. Bring doubles of 1's and 2's, possibly triples if you want to sew it up. It's burly.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : La Nariz (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: Really good climbing, all three cruxes present good, differed challenges and fun movement. Thought it to be easier than submission.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : Submission (5.11c/d)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: Colonel; The last bolt is reachable if you lean right before moving up to the jug that is a little further out left, although it is still a little reachy. Great line, sustained nature of the climb was the crux for me.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : Transmission (5.11b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: Number six is not necessary if you are comfortable on 5.9 offwidth. even still, where the six would be placed (the last ten feet) you have a perfect placement for a number 1 camalot at your feet. Granted some may very well want to take the six, but if you do not have one and are comfortable running it out ten feet, go for it. Also the second picth has lots of nice constrictions, so bring those nuts.


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