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On the uphill side of the trail, near the first se...


Member Since: Oct 29, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,261
Total Points: 109
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 126 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 5 | Stars 36 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Oppositional Defiance Disor... (5.9)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 1 day ago

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Comments: I think I did this? I had meant to do Run Like Hell, but I guess I just wasn't paying attention and ended up climbing something to it's left (anxious to climb/get out of the sun, I suppose). At a certain point I stepped right into a small corner with two pitons, which led to a right-leaning flake/crack and eventually the anchors of Run Like Hell on my right. The description here indicates moving left each time that I moved right, hmm. Whatever I did, though, was pretty fun and a good warm up. Fe... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Hairlip BJ Ecstasy (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 1 day ago

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Comments: The strangeness of this route's name is almost commensurate to the climbing it involves. The rock quality to start is not great, but gets better as you approach the roof via fun, thoughtful climbing. The moves over the roof were bizarre (beta spoiler: they involved making a big dynamic move from a heel hook too a somewhat insecure handjam). After the roof the climbing stays hard and doesn't really let up until some nice jugs at the very end. As for the rating: although a very different style of ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chicken Co-op (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 3 days ago

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Comments: A great way to get the blood flowing in the morning! Felt easier than the second pitch of Abracadaver, which is supposed to be .10a/b (I think). Anyways, it's not as hard as .10 offwidth would suggest (in fact, I'm more inclined to give the lower, sporty, section a harder rating than the offwidth). The key to making the offwidth not-so-bad (spoiler) is to get your right leg horizontal and wedge it way back.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Awesome route! It felt sort of like I was sport climbing on finger-locks and hand-jams. As for the gear: below the bolts I used a #1 bd, two large stoppers, and a #1 and a #2 Metolius, all of which were bomber (especially the stoppers!). I took the aforementioned right-hand exit above the bolts and found three really good placements: two small hexes and one larger stopper.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Mr. Meanor (5.8+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Forgoing the crimps around the crack makes for nice, thoughtful movement (and, so say I, better climbing).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Armed Robbery (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: A good route, although it didn't quite live up to its hype for me. The upper section, in particular, wasn't very enjoyable. That being said, the first few moves are pretty great and the very short lived finger-lock is cool.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Safecracker (5.11a/b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route that protects perfectly well on just nuts. Also, as of today there is a small nut fixed just below the crux (My partner didn't try cleaning it, so I'm not sure how hard it would be to get out).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Off Scott Free (5.9+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Delicate little bit of slab to start (we began right below the "bowl" and did not use the disconnected slab that rests against the wall). As noted, a single nut placement helps mitigate the space between bolts (a #7 bd, the little-ish red one, for us).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: What's the deal with the start? Is the bottom section of the crack now supposed to go on gear, or are the bolts simply waiting to be replaced?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Crime and Punishment (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Got on this today after some time up at the goosehead. Great climb with lots of variation. I came off just after trying to head straight up off the bolt. Hung for a minute then tried heading slightly right (to a little fingerlock-able v-slot) which was much easier, but still a bit tricky.
Also, I noticed that in some comments it sounds like people are heading left after the bolt to the low set of anchors. Is this the intended finish? Heading up to the big ledge and the higher anchors definitely... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Goosed But Smilin' (5.11-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Pretty strenuous crux, but really cool movement. I was able to get a good #1 in below the pin and a #2 Metolius above it. I linked p1 and p2, which made for a pretty exciting route overall, and I wouldn't really recommend doing it this way unless you like big runouts on slab with horrible rope drag.If you do link the two, save a draw for the top of the last pitch. I didn't have any left and ended up running a nut through the bolt for pro.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Palms Down (5.10- PG13)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Did the first pitch only. Started further left, beneath a right-leaning crack that converges with the main line. It looked better than standing in a tree to start, but probably wasn't (cornflake rock, bushes, meh). The climbing in the main system is really funky, but mostly cool. I ended up doing some weird stuff up high that was sort of hard. However, (beta spoiler?) my partner found a decent hold hidden behind a little shrub which made the sequence much easier.
There is pretty good gear throug... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: Got on this a few days ago. Felt slightly harder than Stealin', although it may have been because I started up too far right and ended up having to downclimb and traverse back into the proper line. Definitely not a horrible route, but nothing special either.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Pitfalls of Hesitation (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: We ended up starting at the base of the spire for the first pitch and ending just above the roof, at the first bolted anchors. It may be advisable to build a belay below the roof if you start as low as we did: with only two pieces in before the roof the rope drag was still pretty bad (although I did have a tag line). The obvious line for the second pitch heads straight up off of the belay through a few small roofs and into a right-leaning hand crack. We took this line and felt that it was fairly... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Stealin (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun route to do after Valentine. I got on it without knowing the grade, and when I was finished assumed it was 10+/11-. Granted, if you move far enough to the right so as to stem on the face of valentine, it's probably a bit easier (so don't stem?). Oh, and the roof is way easier than it looks from the ground, so don't let it scare you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Gorgeous route.
First pitch: super enjoyable climbing up a mellow and highly-featured dihedral.
Second pitch: I made the mistake(?) of climbing out right to two bolts and then back left to the bolt that actually belongs to the route. The climbing didn't seem any harder than 5.9 (which isn't to say that doing it this way doesn't introduce more 5.9 crux moves, but whatever). It may just be that I'm not used to sandstone slab (I'm not), but from the belay it really isn't obvious where to go, so th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Atman (5.10a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Really fun little route. Tight hands to perfect hands to wide hands/perfect hands further back. #3 isn't necessary, although can be used for an anchor if you run out of #2s (which you will need two of at most).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Yin and Yang (5.10d)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Anyone who calls Atman harder than Yin and Yang has betrayed their status as a sport climber.
Super fun route. Felt easier (although "sportier") than Risk Brothers. 10c/d seems fair.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! If only it were three times as long. A previous comment recommended 2-3 #3s, which doesn't make much sense: I didn't place a single #3. Two #2s and one #1 for the roof is more than sufficient. Bring a .5 and a .75 for the finger crack before the roof, and maybe another .75 for your belayer.
The crack through the roof has enough variation so as not to make the grade size dependent: both my partner and I had pretty much perfect hands throughout the roof (@POU... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: What an awesome route! First pitch is harder than it looks from the ground (awkward/insecure), second pitch is not as bad as it looks (I haven't done a great many offwidths, but it felt closer to 5.9/5.9+ than 10), third pitch is just so much fun, but not as pumpy as I had expected (lots of good stemming available). It was insanely windy when we did the route, and it definitely made the fourth and fifth pitches feel harder (so windy that I almost got blown off some of the thinner moves). The fir... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Centerpiece (5.10-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Upper crack was tight hands for me. 10-/10 seems right on. Smaller hands would definitely ease up the crux.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Jungle Gym (5.10c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Good, exciting climbing. The bottom was slightly more strenuous than it looked, although I may have just chosen bad beta. I took the right side exit and was able to get a questionable .75 in for the last section.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Stoner's Boner (5.9)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Good fun. If you have occasion to not rappel, the walk off the back takes no more than 5 minutes to get back to the base of the route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Standard Route (5.7)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: To reiterate points regarding some previous comments: I don't know if the mantle(s) on P1 are 5.7 or not. However, if they are harder (by which standard?) then apply Jerry Cagle's comment. I'm offering this simply for the sake of those who would like to climb the route but may be tentative about the mantles (due to prior comments).
Also, the "death crawl" is entirely unnecessary. In fact, I realized only once I finished the route that I never engaged in any distinctly chuckwalla-like movement. ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Squaretop : Cragaholic's Dream (5.10c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful route. A number six is really not necessary, nor are triples of 2-3. We did the second pith with three fours and no five. Although a five would have been nice, the climbing is fairly easy and takes fours throughout. The third pitch is probably harder than the second, if you have short legs.
The only negative: the rappels are horrible. We almost got our rope stuck on the second rap and actually got it stuck on the last.


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