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On the uphill side of the trail, near the first se...


Member Since: Oct 29, 2012
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 3,949
Total Points: 129
Last Year: 60
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 201 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 69 | Posts 5 | Stars 71 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Jimmy Dean (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Did the first pitch only. The first 30-40' involve slightly overhung and thought-provoking climbing. After that, though, it turns into a really easy (5.7ish) and slightly vegetated crack/corner for the remainder of the route. A good warm-up/cool-down for the area.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rogue Planet (5.12c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: The climbing on Rogue Planet, especially on the second pitch, is some of the most cryptic and beta-intensive climbing that I've ever done. It's also some of the best. The crux on pitch one felt like solid .12 to me, although others have suggested an easier rating. If you're really good at thin, technical arete climbing it may not feel so hard. Pitch two had three distinct cruxes for me, each one easier than the last. The real battle, however, was putting it all together; in 130' of cli... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Horse Of A Different Color (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The line is at times non-obvious and wanders around to either side of the bolt line. That being said, the climbing itself is really good and the position, especially on the second pitch, is great.
Rapping after the second pitch was a bit difficult: the line of descent is quite a ways out from the lower anchors and leaves you hanging in space. I had to swing my partner over to them from above. If you want to do the second pitch it's probably best to lower the leader back to the belay. Otherwise ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : If I Only Had a Brain (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Goes on gear to the last bolt just fine (not clipping the last bolt will put you in a position to take quite a ride if you fall on your way to the anchors). Bring doubles of finger-sized pieces and some small and medium sized stoppers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Vahalla (5.11-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Wasn't sure where the first pitch was supposed to end. I ended up climbing most of the second pitch before running out of slings and gear (My last few pieces were extended by linking cams together). I eventually decided to traverse directly left to the anchors for Business as Usual. The rope drag at this point was pretty horrible. Still not sure where the first pitch ends and whether it is a gear or bolted belay. On another note, the route is really fun, especially the traverse and the flake/cra... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Loki (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I got on this without really any information about it, and it definitely felt natural to stop at the anchors for Asgard. The climb itself is pretty good with a short and tenuous crux followed by some fun chimney/slot climbing. I was fairly surprised to get online and find the route listed as .11+. Felt more like mid .11 (Hairlip, around the corner, is quite a bit harder, imo). Can definitely be done with a single rack to 3' and some stoppers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Ma'adim (5.12a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: Rain quarantined us to the North face of Neptune today. So, After Arc of a Diver (which is awesome) we decided to get on the first pitch of Ma'adim. It's quite a bit harder than its neighbor, which is supposedly .11c. Assuming an accurate grade on Arc, the first pitch of Ma'adim seems to deserve a solid .11d. If the rest of the route is as good as its first pitch this might just be the best trad line on the mountain! I guess I'll have to come back to find out.
As for gear: I had a single rack a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Arc Of A Diver (5.11c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: Really fun, varied route. It's much steeper than it looks from the ground, and pretty pumpy. Given that it's mostly bolted a light rack of finger-sized pieces should do just fine.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Single Lens Reflex (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! The upper section, after the dihedral, is particularly good. I did this in the dark the other night and realized the next day that one of my cams was missing (blue metolius, marked with climbing tape). If anyone has found it and is kind enough to return it I'll be glad to provide beer!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Yosemite comes to Tucson! Well, almost. If you're into crack climbing I'd say the hike down would be worth making for the second pitch alone. The first pitch is really not a bad 100' of climbing either, but nothing in comparison to the second. .11- seems a bit sandbagged (although I had just finished working Rogue Planet, so maybe my perception is skewed); felt just as hard as the second pith of Reef break, which is supposedly .11.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Crystal Meth (5.12)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: Cool little route: grab a jug, clip a bolt, then throw to another jug. Repeat. on my first run I pulled off a pretty big flake that I was using as an undercling, just right of the starting jug. However, after looking at the pictures on here it doesn't seem like people were using this anyways. The last few moves to the anchors are definitely the crux, with the second to last (for me) being especially hard (Beta spoiler: it's another big throw, but to a little two-finger two-pad crystal).
Not to d... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : The Eagle's Gift (5.11c/d)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: The climbing isn't too hard, but the beta isn't very obvious. This would definitely be a tricky onsight. Good route with some really fun movement and an awesome quartz pinch up high. Our party knocked loose rock off on pretty much every run we took on it, although with more traffic it should clean up well.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Naranja (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful route. The climbing, although consistent in difficulty, isn't all that sustained (you're stemming the whole way, so rests abound). The crux is tricky, but not too hard (felt easier than Histoplasmosis).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 21st Century Finger Crack (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Although less visually striking than its neighbor, the climbing on this thing is, in my opinion, better (quasi-beta spoiler: I really like dynos, and this climb has one). As Geir noted, it's pretty easy to climb around the crack if it's damp.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: This climb is outstanding! Both starting options are awesome (the finger crack is perhaps a bit better, imo), the second pitch is just pure fun on super steep jugs, and the third is airy with a devious crux. I'm fairly certain that the second pitch could turn almost any sport climber to the dark side. If you're climbing at the grade, get on it!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Swept Away (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Eric,
You're right, it wasn't a great idea to jug the rope. But all's well that ends well, I suppose.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Swept Away (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Did the first pitch a few days ago after getting a rope stuck on Rapture. I found the direction of travel to be non-obvious past the layback flake. After some deliberation I decided not to head left (the proper way), because of the greenery growing out of the feature, and instead went right to a short handcrack that goes directly through the roof. Unfortunately this crack disappears into a lichen-covered face. Fell off, hung for a bit, then went left. The climbing out left is really cool, but th... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Geirful Warrior (5.11-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: Led this "clean" for the onsight with nuts and hexes (and one micro cam). A good blue metolius and a bomber nut fit in a few feet above the large flake thing, and then nothing to the top. I suppose you may be able to sling something or finagle some gear in up higher, but the climbing is pretty easy and on mostly huge holds. Given some of the other gear routes I've done on Lemmon it's actually kind of surprising that this thing has any bolts on it.
As for the rating, .11-/10+ seems generous. Eith... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: This thing doesn't look like much from the base, but what an awesome route once you're in it! There was one fixed BD .5, and two fixed plastic nuts (what the hell?). I clipped the higher nut, mostly as a novelty.
As for the rating: two days earlier I came extremely close to onsighting Separate Reality (botched the beta before the jug, damn it!) and a day before cruised up the Bat Crack. I managed the onsight on this, but it was by no means cruiser. b/c seems about right.
Also, no bees at the b... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: With a 70m link 1&2, 3&4, 5&6 (although minimal gear will need to be placed on 5). Some simul-climbing is beneficial from 7 to the Robbin's traverse. Do the tunnel trough on P11: spectacular position and climbing (however, the exit moves are fairly committing and would be rather hard to aid without hooks). Link all of the chimneys (12,13,14) and don't squeeze! It was unprotected, crazy strenuous, and you have to exit right anyways. Also, if you think you can do it in a day then go for it, it's d... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Oppositional Defiance Disor... (5.9)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: I think I did this? I had meant to do Run Like Hell, but I guess I just wasn't paying attention and ended up climbing something to it's left (anxious to climb/get out of the sun, I suppose). At a certain point I stepped right into a small corner with two pitons, which led to a right-leaning flake/crack and eventually the anchors of Run Like Hell on my right. The description here indicates moving left each time that I moved right, hmm. Whatever I did, though, was pretty fun and a good warm up. Fe... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Hairlip BJ Ecstasy (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: The strangeness of this route's name is almost commensurate to the climbing it involves. The rock quality to start is not great, but gets better as you approach the roof via fun, thoughtful climbing. The moves over the roof are bizarre (beta spoiler: they involve making a big dynamic move from a heel hook too a somewhat insecure handjam). After the roof the climbing stays hard and doesn't really let up until some nice jugs at the very end. As for the rating: the guide that I was working off of (... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chicken Co-op (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: A great way to get the blood flowing in the morning! Felt easier than the second pitch of Abracadaver, which is supposed to be .10a/b (I think). Anyways, it's not as hard as .10 offwidth would suggest (in fact, I'm more inclined to give the lower, sporty, section a harder rating than the offwidth). The key to making the offwidth not-so-bad (spoiler) is to get your right leg horizontal and wedge it way back.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! It felt sort of like I was sport climbing on finger-locks and hand-jams. As for the gear: below the bolts I used a #1 bd, two large stoppers, and a #1 and a #2 Metolius, all of which were bomber (especially the stoppers!). I took the aforementioned right-hand exit above the bolts and found three really good placements: two small hexes and one larger stopper.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Mr. Meanor (5.8+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Forgoing the crimps around the crack makes for nice, thoughtful movement (and, so say I, better climbing).


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