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Member Since: Nov 26, 2009
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,248
Total Points: 243
Last Year: 200
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has aSteel been climbing?










Contributions


All 168 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 37 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 12 | Stars 67 | Ratings 35

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Outlaws on the Run (5.6)
By: aSteel When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: It's worth noting that if the leader blows any clip on this route, including the chains, decking is a good possibility. Not that there are that many bolts, but still.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks : Cherry (5.8)
By: aSteel When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: I agree that the climbing world would benefit from increased development of well-protected sport climbs from 5.5 - 5.8. I think this would help beginners, as well as less advanced climbers, to enjoy climbing. However, if you are saying that we should bolt well protected natural lines in order to provide more options for those who are not placing gear, we are on opposite sides of this issue.

This "vandalism" is a common solution to rectifying the abuses of thoughtless bolters and re-enriches a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: aSteel When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: ~200' of a route, with 50' of good climbing (5.5), then 30' of terrible climbing (5.6+), then 120' of good climbing again (with the 5.8 variation). A #6 protects the offwidth at the start of pitch 2 pretty well (about 5.5), though you'd need something bigger to have a perma-top-rope. For the 30' of terrible climbing, here's a hint: the lower route is better rock overall, but only slightly. Not a great lead for tentative or learning leaders.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Hot Spot Area : The World Through a Bottle (5.10a)
By: aSteel When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: The pro got better on this route in the last month. Not sure why. Now takes a solid #4 DMM offset nut before the #2 DMM offset nut (also solid). Actually, you have choices for pro now, which is different. Gold Lowe-ball works great, and a blue/yellow Mastercam at the bottom and again at the top of the thin section are solid. I also enjoy a #5 right before the mantle, but maybe I'm just justifying the purchase.... 0.75, 1, and 2 for the final section are all great and protect ev... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : This Bone's For You (5.9)
By: aSteel When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Loose blocks remain as of 1/11/14, as does the loose bolt on the widely spaced anchor.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Chimney Route (5.8)
By: aSteel When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Mostly 5.6 with a touch of 5.8 at the top. If you don't get Hanta virus in the chimney, the pigeons will get you higher up. Still worth a go if you're in the area with a gear rack. Left anchor bolt was loose as of 1/11/14.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Hot Spot Area : Mechanically Inept (5.8)
By: aSteel When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: A good, thoughtful route. Worth doing twice.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: aSteel When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: There needs to be an appreciation day for everyone who does service work like this. Thank you to Sam and everyone who lugs around heavy equipment on awesome climbs, taking risk and working harder, just to make those routes safer, easier and more enjoyable for everyone else!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: aSteel When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Andy Goldsworthy, eat your heart out.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower
By: aSteel When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: As of 11/18/13 the 2007 anchor was missing. There is one existing bolt with an exposed sleeve, and tat wrapped around a boulder that provides the most reliable descent.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks : Unloved (C2)
By: aSteel When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Be careful of loose rock on this one, and bring a wrench and a leash to tighten all bolts before attempting to lead.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower : West Face (5.7 C2)
By: aSteel When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: The 20-30' of 5.7 looked more like 30+' of unprotected climbing to me. As I was fully in aid mode at that point, I hooked up to the bolt ladder. With about 4 aid moves on hooks or bad/small gear it felt like C3. It was very easy and secure, though one hook placement was less than incredible (hooking on a dead horizontal ledge instead of over a nice lip). I also feel that no #4 camalot is needed. We brought two but only placed one on pitch ten at the top and that could have been skippe... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Playing Hooky (5.10d C2)
By: aSteel When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: Rack suggestions for styled-out aid rack:
- master cams (grey: 1, purple: 2, blue: 2, yellow: 4, orange: 4, red: 4, offset blue/yellow: 1(not required, but nice))
- double set of aluminum offset nuts
- single set of brassie offset nuts
- triple set of .75-3 camalots, (double set okay, triple set is faster), 2 #4s, 1 #5 and 1 #6 (5 and 6 are not required, but could be good if you're learning)
- red tri-cam. More colors if you want, but this was my option instead of hooking at t... more >>