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Member Since: Aug 19, 2007
Last Visit: Dec 9, 2011
Contact Arthur Sullivan


Point Rank: # 1,369
Total Points: 440
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Arthur Sullivan been climbing?










Contributions


All 132 | Routes 26 | Areas 9 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 35 | Posts 1 | Stars 40 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Terrace
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for posting this. I spent a lot of time exploring this area and always wondered if a topo existed. It's a much shorter approach than palomas though the rock quality looked suspect in areas. Always made me wonder if there were other forgotten areas near ABQ.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Giant Boulder Middle (5.9)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: Maybe I was missing something but this felt very difficult for 5.9 if you stick to the bolt line. Its short but pulling over the arete felt like a 5.10 move.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Interstate Park : ... : Kiss of the Crowbar (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: I think the rating is a little deceptive considering some of the other 5.7s at exit 38. This is long and vertical with some big moves. Fun climb but not a great beginner lead.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Giant Boulder Right (5.8+)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: Tricky second clip w/ the lichen.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Turkey Sandwich (5.8 R)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: I realize its probably not climbers but the base of this climb has developed a serious toilet paper problem over the past year. Really unfortunate because I enjoy climbing at this wall when the front walls are crowded on summer days.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Upper Tier
By: Arthur Sullivan When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Walking past the existing lines I was surprised to see some less vertical looking terrain. Seems like the kind of area that could be developed into a nice moderate area like lower gallows edge. I'm guessing the huge perched boulder that looks like it could fall off anytime and squish the potential crowds below has been the deterrent.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : Patchwork (5.10c)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: I'm all for the new anchor. I went left at the top which turned out to be a very bad idea.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : Once Were Warriors (5.8)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Agreed, take your time in finding the right holds and the grade is accurate.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusua... (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: The rodents are back. Not a good climb to take your gal up on the first date.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Scandanavian Airlines (5.10c)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: I was cruising right along and then the holds disappeared. Its a short crux but I think you could make the case for 11.a


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Las Hermanas
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Feb 21, 2010

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Comments: I believe there is some confusion with the route listings above. "Whale Tail Pilates" starts on the north side of the notch that separates the Arniel (uppermost) and Lucia (middle) boulder. All of the routes to the north of whale tail listed left to right above are located on the arniel boulder ending with "Climbing Outside the Box 5.10c) and an bolted arete (5.7) on the north edge of arniel. I believe the routes on arniel from left to right are...
1."Whale Tale Pilates" 5.9
2."Muffin Top Aerob... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pet Trackers (5.10a)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Sep 18, 2009

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Comments: Shares anchors with P.D. Time. The anchors are wearing thin from people toproping so please use your own equipment. The start of this climb may feel tougher for those with less reach.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : P.D. Time (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Sep 18, 2009

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Comments: I posted this route as 5.7 because thats what it is listed as in the guidebook but I wouldn't recommend this route unless you're comfortable on 5.9. This was the first 5.7 I've ever climbed that had a bail beaner hanging off it.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (07) Randy's Wall : Motion Activated (5.7+)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Aug 13, 2009

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Comments: I've done both sides and I think you have to stay right at the 3rd bolt to keep it 5.7.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Easy Slab
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: Making the second clip is pretty exciting as the bottom of this climb is covered in moss. After that its enjoyable 5.4 climbing to the top. Very slippery after the daily afternoon thunderstorms.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (01) East Corridor Wall : Twig but No Berries (5.10b)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: Pretty tough for a 10b. It makes me wonder if the sandstone holds have lost edges with use as several of the climbs at mentmore that are slab had moves that seemed much harder than their grades. If you're expecting 10b wipe the sand off your shoes hope you're tall enough to reach past the thin stuff.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (03) Wall of Dreams : Flakes Don't Fail Me Now (5.10b)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: I'm 190 with no finesse and nothing broke so go for it.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (03) Wall of Dreams : Crescent Moon (5.10d R)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: One of the best routes on the wall if done as a toprope. Unique moves up a beautiful arching sandstone finger crack. I found the crux to be pulling past the 5th bolt over the top as its mainly slopers up there.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (04) The Balcony : Betty's Redemption (5.8)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: Well protected with the toughest moves being below a low first bolt. After that the grade is 5.7 to the top.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (04) The Balcony : Crow's Feet (5.10b)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: The crux is between bolts 2 and 3 and felt more like 10d. Watch out for loose holds in the horizontal above bolt 2.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Bloodline (5.8 PG13)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 6, 2009

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Comments: 7 bolts. Bolts 2-3 and 4-5 are pretty run out but the climbing is 5.6ish between. Fun climb.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mr. Wind (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jun 13, 2009

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Comments: Like many of the moderates at Penitente the guide book grade assumes you levitate over the initial moves. Tough climb for a 5.7 unless you are very comfortable on slab. Anchors are wearing thin at the top.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Anatomy 101 (5.10)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: I don't lead 5.10 and had no problem setting this up. It goes 5.8. Great route with an obvious mantle move above the high first bolt. Rightmost route on the wall.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Ogopogo (5.10a)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: Overhanging moves down low which will be the crux for those who struggle on the pumpy stuff. 5.7 stretch leads to a more balancy slab that is significantly easier if you use some holds out left.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Cookie Monster (5.8)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: Excellent moderate route. Long and varied climbing. Thought clipping the anchors was a bit difficult for 5.8. Don't miss the hidden pocket left of the anchors which makes life easier at the top.


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