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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Morning Glory (5.8)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Updated 12/21/10 to reflect current conditions
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City
By: Art Morimitsu When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that's the White Face wall
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County
By: Art Morimitsu When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Echo cliffs is under the sub area Santa Monica Mountains
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Hueco Wall : Ryane's Revenge (5.10a)
By: Art Morimitsu When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to the FA party this route is misnamed in the guidebook.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Ellsmere Island : Geometry (5.11a)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Nov 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my experience Murf is usually incorrect.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Williamson Rock : Letter Writing Campaign to ...
By: Art Morimitsu When: Oct 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jorge
Actually the Forest Service had requested climbers cease using the longer trail in order to preserve endangered plant life.
They moved the Williamson/climbing sign to the shorter steeper trail that starts in the smaller higher lot in order to facilate this.
I don't know who Frank is but am guessing he's a member of FoW
click the link below to directly access their website.
Friends of Williamson
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - West Face : ... : Photo
By: Art Morimitsu When: Jun 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey it's JD!
yet another climber that both Tony and I know even though Tony and I have never met.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fairway
By: Art Morimitsu When: May 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brandt
I strongly suspect those routes are on The Shreen, Shreen (10b) on the left and Story Of J (10a) on the right
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fairway
By: Art Morimitsu When: May 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most likely the routes you passed were either The Shreen area (located at the bottom of the canyon) or Fantasy Island which is the area directly below the Fairway. I know that the guidebook shows the Shreen as above Fantasy Island but it is wrong. The first area encountered on the trail is the Shreen, followed by Fantasy Island and lastly The Fairway.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Nipple Denial Syndrome (5.11a/b)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My understanding is that a hold broke off above the big Hueco on the right side of the arete (on the Mr Big face). The last time I did this route it felt more like 11b/c.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Williamson Rock : Mushroom Boulder : Mushroom (5.8)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's often great fun to watch people pump out and scream "TAKE" on this route. Happens again and again
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Williamson Rock : Mushroom Boulder : Kill the Spore (5.11b/c)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hate this route (but I'm short) because when you come whipping off you always seem to land above the ledge below just barely clean.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Williamson Rock : Mushroom Boulder : Shroomin' (5.11b)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I use a drop knee and stand up out of it with a deadpoint at the last second to the jug
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Williamson Rock : Mushroom Boulder : Shroomin' (5.11b)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to climb straight up after grabbing the Jug, crimpy with long reaches it helps to be tall doing it that way (which I am not). Although I've never accomplished it I've seen it done by a taller partner.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fantasy Island : The Minute Men Arete (5.11d)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hero moves near the top of this route are outstanding.
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : We Sad (5.10c)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Makes a fun boulder problem too by just doing the bottom section. I did the boulder start jumped off and then let my partner lead it....in the rain.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Southern California Sport Climbing 3rd edition contains most but not all the routes for NJC. Buyer beware, some of the information is inaccurate and there are some mistakes in it.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven's Roost
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although in the guidebook, nobody ever seems to do these routes
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Massage Secrets (5.10b)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Mar 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: DOH!
You're right Dave I got my right and left mixed up.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Predator Wall : ... : Vertigo (5.11a)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Feb 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the bolts seemed to be placed a bit off from where the climbing movement naturally takes you. Spacing seemed a bit far too.
Just my 2 cents.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Hidden Wall (aka The Meat L... : King of all Media (5.11d)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Feb 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: HAND JAM you forgot to mention the HAND JAM!
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : Raven Rocks West (Warm-up W...
By: Art Morimitsu When: Feb 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite possibly the most popular wall for intermediate/beginner climbers at NJC. On a recent weekend from the Crossfire wall we noticed at least 20 people sitting or standing around the base and only ONE person climbing.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Sunnyside : Gold Finger (5.10a)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Jan 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jack recently added a bolt to the start of this route. Previously this route and the one to the left shared the same start. But with all the traffic these routes see Jack felt a seperate start was appropriate.
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Updated Rebolting info for ...
By: Art Morimitsu When: Jan 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is correct, Rich. Titanium is more corrosion resistant than steel.
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Short And Savage (5.10c/d)
By: Art Morimitsu When: Jan 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave
The main problem is the corrosion of steel bolts on all routes in Railey. Any route not yet rebolted with Titanium is suspect.
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