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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : No White Flag (5.12-)
By: arjunmh When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Wish we'd read this before today -- 4 pretty well grown chicks in the nest and very irritated parents. Definitely stay away from this for the next couple/few weeks.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Angel Wing (5.10b/c)
By: arjunmh When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The loose block is still there and I tried to pry it loose while rapping the pitch, but it wouldn't give. Bring crowbar next time ... note to self and anyone else.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Los Cojones (5.11c)
By: arjunmh When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, cool, and similar to Ducky Butt Rub in terms of difficulty, but more heady because of needing to clear the initial roof and get to the 3rd bolt (harder than the roof). Did this again today and it's fun, but not excellent. Immediate Gratification, the one to the left, if a better route.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : Intermission (5.11c)
By: arjunmh When: May 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found the cruxes on the 2nd pitch to be significantly harder than the other 11+ climbs at Iso. Extremely sustained and delicate-powerful climbing with moves that needed a lot of thought. Had to step "Off route" a couple times to rest and eye the steep ground ahead that appeared devoid of holds (thankfully, this route doesn't see much traffic and so isn't plastered with chalk like Submission). Needs fluidity and speed to get through without total burnout!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Peacenik (5.12a)
By: arjunmh When: May 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup, having now done the 2nd pitch clean and being well under 6', I can safely say that the crux move is height dependent. Reaching that key hold is way, way hard for us shorties!! And, wow, is that 3rd pitch ever terrific -- well worth getting to it.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : La Vida Loca (5.11b/c)
By: arjunmh When: May 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found the second roof to be harder, but perhaps that was a function of this being the last climb of a hard set of days. Pretty awesome route and I found the gear to be straighforward and solid. Remember to bring enough for the 2nd pitch, where a #2 or #3 will help ease nerves above the roof, as will a 0.5 between some bolts.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Duckie Butt Rub (5.11b)
By: arjunmh When: May 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doing both this and Stellar back to back now makes me prefer this one for the diversity of movement and the very cool roof pull up top. To get full value go straight up and over rather than the easier "bypass" to the right.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Taming AmyG Dala (5.11c/d)
By: arjunmh When: May 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a spectacular climb! Been intimidated by it for a long time and it doesn't look like it gets much traffic, but holy cow, what an exhilerating climb. So improbable and yet it is all there. 60 m rope worked fine for the rap, but, yeah, obviously watch the end!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Inertia (5.10-)
By: arjunmh When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah, I'll change the description -- I edited it on the other 4 climbs, but must've forgotten to edit this one. Sorry. A couple weeks ago David and I went in and climbed all the new routes we'd set and replaced the biners with chains such that the biners wouldn't be bootied and the anchors can be used either as TR anchors with the leader adding a couple quickdraws, or just belay from the top (recommended given the views from the tops of all these towers) and then rap off the chains. Thanks for the... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : Rushin' Arete (5.9+ R)
By: arjunmh When: May 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would definitely be a bad fall to mess up the crux, but the movement is sweet and the solid pro would've definitely prevented me from catastrophe. Long sling and a #1 or 0.75 as high up as I could reach, then out to the arete and climb with faith. Beautiful movement. The start of the climb felt the hardest!!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : Grievous Angel (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: May 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sweet little crack that I would've overlooked if I hadn't been going to do Waterslip. A great warmup for sure!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Fool's Game (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: May 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree on the above comments and it's definitely a good step harder than Mayflower to OS, but even more fun because of the diversity of movement and coolness of the gear.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Obsidian Wall : Heart of Darkness (5.9+ R)
By: arjunmh When: May 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looked hard for pro to protect the start and didn't find it -- But, the climbing is mellow to the roof if careful and then relatively poor pro protects pulling the roof (a rattly #3 and a so-so 0.5 BD). The upper section is the sweetness and the pro is also tricky. Would definitely call this not for the faint of heart to lead in comparison with all the other bomber pro climbs here. Small stoppers are key and not falling in the first 20-25 ft is also key!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Back In Black (5.10c)
By: arjunmh When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a much nicer route than it seems to be getting credit for. Would recommend for folks wanting to venture south on the wall. A couple cruxy moves down low and then fun sailing!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Kestrel's Last Stand (5.10b)
By: arjunmh When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this again this past weekend and was happy to see that it's cleaned up nicely and is obviously seeing some traffic. Believe it or not, JJ, the rock quality was a lot worse before David banged away at this cleaning (while I was scrubbing "Lichenometry) for an hour plus!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Shakin' & Eggs (5.10- PG13)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go Marcy and Geir! Great to see these posted and thanks for the pic of Minas Morgul! I look forward to getting on these two climbs of yours, though I think we're nearing the end of Lower Devil's season this year. Shall see what the coming weekend brings. Hope you'll had a great trip to Red Rocks!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : Sedona's Scenic Cruise (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Tyler on all points, but found the #4 quite nice to have on the trad pitches (even if it really wasn't that necessary). Would've been fun and funny to run into you en route as it has been a while. Just read his post about going all the way out from the top, which was hilarious given that this is what Hanna wrote in the summit register after reading Tyler's note in there: "These guys are crazy!"
Regarding the damage on the top of the trail -- basically from the upper saddle to t... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Inertia (5.10-)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, and also sorry to not have done it together. It was you and Austin's efforts on the new Totem Pole routes that got David and me back over to this area. There are certainly many cool looking routes on good looking rock left to develop here! Yes, looking forward to being out there together.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pipe Cleaner (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks David, and yes, it is a fun route and awesome views from the top. This too will clean up nicely when we don't have dogs lounging around the base.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : That's not epilepsy that's ... (5.8)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given the time that Brenda and Steve with two different parties have spent over at this route on the last couple weekends, I'm guessing it's pretty sweet. And, enough traffic now to clean it up nicely.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Gold (5.10b/c)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb and the new Totem Pole climb, Pathological Optimist, recently became my favorite for this area of LD. Wow, what a sweet route indeed, and while it's overhanging and delicate, the holds are all there and bomber.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pipe Bomb (5.10-)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed! I am assuming that we'll clean it up better next time in there, in which case hopefully it'll be better than a bomb!! May need a crowbar, though, or a real pipe bomb. Hence the name.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Totem Pole Direct (5.10)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is bringing the old and much written about topic of bolting vs. gear to LD. There are so many opinions and perspectives on this, to say nothing of controversies and seriously bad disputes over it all that I am hesitant to weigh in. But I will since this area is so near and dear to my heart. My perspective is that it's just climbing and we're all doing it for enjoyment ... so, let's enjoy! In The Refuge, I've often climbed something entirely on gear, but then have put bolts in where I might ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Fern Gully Arete (5.7)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Marty's book: "Sport. Right of Chicken Shit Salad scramble up a chimney to get onto a ledge where the route starts. 6 bolt west face and arete to a 2 shut rap. 60'. Est: 5/93 Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters."
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Chicken Shit Salad (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to Marty's book the FA was Mark Trainor and Perry Teeters in 05/93. "Route goes up the northwest face in a corridor on a large formation west of the Totem Pole. Nice face with 10 bolts which gets steep and crunchy at the top. 2 shut rap, 80'. Haven't done this, but will check out and get pic next time down there.
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