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Member Since: Nov 10, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Arch Richardson


Point Rank: # 9,854
Total Points: 24
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Arch Richardson been climbing?










Contributions


All 486 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 3 | Stars 381 | Ratings 82

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Among the best of the best.
Note for marginal 5.10 leaders (like myself): At the crux, I took the low traverse. There is a 15 ft sequence, passing 2 good bolts, that is much more difficult than anything else on the route. Hard 5.10? Falls are safe, but there is no way to pull through on gear. I made it (barely).
Remnant 1/4" studs suggest the original route went to the top of the crack, then took a high traverse somewhat above the new bolts. There's chalk up there too. Easier 5.10, but... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Actually, this short route does have its place in the sun. It is ideal for the aspiring Prince of Darkness leader seeking to test his/her skills on similar rock without causing a traffic jam. If you can't lead this, no need to pinch your toes on the Prince. Also, the anchors make a perfect vantage from which to photograph your friends on the crux of Triassic Sands.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Enjoyed this fine route yesterday, completing it c/c in a long day, (us being average climbers in our 60's). The fall weather was flawless, and there were no other parties on the route, or on the East Face. We did the approach at nite, climbed the route from 8 to 2 while the face was sunny, and descended the hiking trail. Easy to get a Whitney Zone day pass the day before, for free. A pleasant alternative to fighting the crowds in July-August.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Giveaway (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: A 5.9, with a 5.10 sequence at the start that's called a boulder problem, and some greasy slopers up higher that give a tennish feel. Maybe we should just drop the sandbag and call it a 10a (per the guidebook).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Arch Richardson When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know if the route is still officially closed?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Arch Richardson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Second pitch is only 5.9 if you french the crux...a few stiff pulls and you're cruisin the bomber handcrack. There, i said it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Arch Richardson When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Great situation, great shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Pin is not that great, and bolt hanger is thin and covered with a blob of epoxy. I wouldn't fall on either. You can back up the pin with a cluster of rp's, but you have to trust the bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: Monotonous? Edging closely-bolted granite slabs may be monotonous, but not this sandstone jewel. Sidepulls, micro mantels, highsteps, smearing, edging, and yes, crimping - and this is only the 2nd pitch. A face-climbing classic for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 21, 2011

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Comments: The first rappel South from the notch to the bowl(slung chockstone) goes with one-60m rope (stretch). The main rappels East below the smiley face require 2 ropes and involve 3 drops if you diagonal over (climbers right) to the Power Failure pitch-2 anchors. We missed the set of anchors described by Alasdair (but still had a hassle-free descent).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: First rate adventure climb with deluxe ledges. As of May 11 -Two brand new shiny bolts atop the first double-rope rap - many thanks to the installers. Hidden station below was secure with 2 good nuts - and easily backed up with a 1-1/2 Friend. Nest of tattered slings adequate but could stand some thinning out. Enjoy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 7, 2011

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Comments: Crucial placements for me were .4 to .6 inch cams on the 5.9 pitch. These are more useful (and much lighter) than 3" cams. Smallish wires also useful. (Rock climbing doesn't get any better than this...)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: We hiked to the summit of BV Peak a few days ahead, cached approach shoes and water up there, less to carry up the chimneys on climb day. This great hike also familiarized us with the approach/descent. See Branch Whitney's website for detailed hiking beta. Mantle on entrance to 3rd 5.9 chimney pitch was a bit tricky(8+), but I didn't find a loose jug (as of April 25th).


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Stilgar's Wild Ride (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: We had a 70 m rope but ended up doing 6 pitches because of terminal rope drag. The rope tends to pull into corners and jam in several locations. Something to watch out for. Otherwise an excellent route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: A 00 Metolius TCU adequately protected the initial moves. Overall a very fun and well protected climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: I did not find any 10a moves on this climb (but lots of 9). I had a good pump going in several locations, though. If you place gear efficiently on p4 it is not too hard. A very enjoyable climb with comfy belay ledges and excellent pro.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 17, 2010

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Comments: I first attempted this classic in the olden days before the bolts. I cast off and managed to combine the first 2 pitches. My partner, much shorter than I, could not follow the 1st move. Tension made things worse and there was no communication. I eventually lowered and cleaned to the 1st belay, untied and pulled the rope and retied. I then reversed and cleaned the traverse. Pumped, I chose to leave a biner and lower off the first manky pin rather than reverse the first move.
Best not to push you... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: Repeated this fun route recently. Much of the upper climb is on detached but solidly interlocked blocks. I wouldn't yard on the holds indiscriminately by any means, and some of the gear is suspect. Its not loose by alpine standards, though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: Repeated this classic yesterday after (too) many years. First move is dicey above small gear and IMHO is PG13. Watch routing of rope over detached blocks on P2 traverse. Also, it would be easy to hang the rope or pull down rocks on the rap descent. In short, an excellent adventure.