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Member Since: Nov 10, 2009
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Arch Richardson


Point Rank: # 10,307
Total Points: 20
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Arch Richardson been climbing?










Contributions


All 445 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvments | Comments 15 | Posts 3 | Stars 346 | Ratings 80
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Cozy Ledge atop Pitch 5.

Cozy Ledge atop Pitch 5.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Bourbon Street (5.8+)

May 16, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Arch Richardson When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know if the route is still officially closed?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Arch Richardson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Second pitch is only 5.9 if you french the crux...a few stiff pulls and you're cruisin the bomber handcrack. There, i said it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Arch Richardson When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Great situation, great shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Pin is not that great, and bolt hanger is thin and covered with a blob of epoxy. I wouldn't fall on either. You can back up the pin with a cluster of rp's, but you have to trust the bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: Monotonous? Edging closely-bolted granite slabs may be monotonous, but not this sandstone jewel. Sidepulls, micro mantels, highsteps, smearing, edging, and yes, crimping - and this is only the 2nd pitch. A face-climbing classic for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 21, 2011

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Comments: The first rappel South from the notch to the bowl(slung chockstone) goes with one-60m rope (stretch). The main rappels East below the smiley face require 2 ropes and involve 3 drops if you diagonal over (climbers right) to the Power Failure pitch-2 anchors. We missed the set of anchors described by Alasdair (but still had a hassle-free descent).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: First rate adventure climb with deluxe ledges. As of May 11 -Two brand new shiny bolts atop the first double-rope rap - many thanks to the installers. Hidden station below was secure with 2 good nuts - and easily backed up with a 1-1/2 Friend. Nest of tattered slings adequate but could stand some thinning out. Enjoy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 7, 2011

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Comments: Crucial placements for me were .4 to .6 inch cams on the 5.9 pitch. These are more useful (and much lighter) than 3" cams. Smallish wires also useful. (Rock climbing doesn't get any better than this...)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: We hiked to the summit of BV Peak a few days ahead, cached approach shoes and water up there, less to carry up the chimneys on climb day. This great hike also familiarized us with the approach/descent. See Branch Whitney's website for detailed hiking beta. Mantle on entrance to 3rd 5.9 chimney pitch was a bit tricky(8+), but I didn't find a loose jug (as of April 25th).


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Stilgar's Wild Ride (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: We had a 70 m rope but ended up doing 6 pitches because of terminal rope drag. The rope tends to pull into corners and jam in several locations. Something to watch out for. Otherwise an excellent route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: A 00 Metolius TCU adequately protected the initial moves. Overall a very fun and well protected climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: I did not find any 10a moves on this climb (but lots of 9). I had a good pump going in several locations, though. If you place gear efficiently on p4 it is not too hard. A very enjoyable climb with comfy belay ledges and excellent pro.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 17, 2010

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Comments: I first attempted this classic in the olden days before the bolts. I cast off and managed to combine the first 2 pitches. My partner, much shorter than I, could not follow the 1st move. Tension made things worse and there was no communication. I eventually lowered and cleaned to the 1st belay, untied and pulled the rope and retied. I then reversed and cleaned the traverse. Pumped, I chose to leave a biner and lower off the first manky pin rather than reverse the first move.
Best not to push you... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: Repeated this fun route recently. Much of the upper climb is on detached but solidly interlocked blocks. I wouldn't yard on the holds indiscriminately by any means, and some of the gear is suspect. Its not loose by alpine standards, though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: Repeated this classic yesterday after (too) many years. First move is dicey above small gear and IMHO is PG13. Watch routing of rope over detached blocks on P2 traverse. Also, it would be easy to hang the rope or pull down rocks on the rap descent. In short, an excellent adventure.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Thoughts on the Gunks General ClimbingArch RichardsonNov 19, 2012
re: Climbing Trip mid Oct. Gunks or Jtree wich is better?Eastern StatesArch RichardsonAug 9, 2012
re: Your idea of a perfect year of climbing by month/ areaGeneral ClimbingArch RichardsonAug 18, 2011

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Owen Spalding 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton

Sweet Thin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Brownstone Wall

Beginner's Delight 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Nutcracker 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R...

Triassic Sands 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Whiskey Peak

Dr. Evil 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Gotham City

Heart of the Sun 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Great Wall of China

Snake Dike 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Half Dome

Corrugation Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Main Wall

Lower Exum Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton

Kor's Flake 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress

The Bastille Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

Traveler Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Main Wall

Solar Slab 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Higher Cathedral Spire

Hair City 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

White Punks on Dope 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Voodoo Dome

Calypso 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

Flower of High Rank 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northeast Buttress

Serenity Crack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Royal Arches

Outer Space 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

Illusion Dweller 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Sentinel - West Face

Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Middle Cathedral Rock

Ruper 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Ursula 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

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