Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Photo
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The absolutely least-exposed descent (without doing the long hike off the back) is linking the tree-ledges (as seen on the right side, in the topo) and taking it down to 120 (towards the wilderness center parking lot, also on the topo). This is 3rd/2nd class the whole way if you hit it right. All other (non-hike) descents require 4th or a little 5th class scrambling/slabbing. If you are soloing you might consider descending the mountaineer's route for a little extra rock time and a very speedy w... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Lembert Dome-Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the potential problem with linking the upper two pitches is that with a lot of rope out you are going to get a lot of stretch in the rope if you blow the crux, and there's a big flat ledge right beneath you.
i agree with n.stayner's pitch beta, with a 60. the trick is, as he says, to climb up as far as you are comfortable before belaying the first pitch.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Lembert Dome-West Face
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: you can rap from the chains over the water cracks with three very short raps linking anchors on two routes. this gets you to the gentle slab below the water cracks. two single rope rappels gets you (with a 60) to a decent spot where you still need to do a little slippery down-slabbing with a potential tumble/slide if you blow it.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: well, i dont know. ive never gone down it, and the idea isnt too appealing to me. thats partly because i enjoy weaving down the orpheus descent.
its also partly because i dont treasure the idea of downclimbing the little steep 4th class section at the very bottom, but then ive always gone up that in shoes and a pack, and im no hero. it would probably be a little harder (or feel a little harder) to go down it without ever have gone up it, but it could probably be sussed out on the way down by lo... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Requiem for a Tadpole (5.9+)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: regarding the route beta "Apparently it is possible to rappel from here using two ropes on a adjacent route (Armatron?)"
i would definitely suggest topping out this, and any other route on the far right side of the brownstown wall (with the possible exception of routes on the sandcastle face). the summit is great, with a register and shade and good views.
the walkoff from the big tree at the summit is straightforward and quick, with only a single move of 4th class. it takes ten or fifteen min... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: you can get to the base of the eagle wall in a little over an hour from oak creek parking. see direct approach beta on the main eagle wall page.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: forget everything you heard about a long approach. you can be at the base of the eagle wall in an hour from oak creek parking if you hustle and take the direct approach.
walk into oak creek, under the solar slabs, and stay high on good trails, occasionally braided, and OUT OF THE DRAINAGE until you are forced in just as the canyon pinches down.
then follow the drainage upstream until you are in full view of the black arch wall on your right. ahead of you is the fork where other slower approach... more >>
|
Location: International : Mexico
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Dec 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: it would be really great if an administrator could adjust the mexico page so that the climbing areas are grouped by state, or at least central/north/southern mexico..
|
Location: International : Mexico : Pena de Bernal : Bernalina (5.8-)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Dec 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: far be it from me to claim the ability to fully decipher the mexican climbing beta, but i think that the route with the red hangers is actually "El Lado Oscuro de la Luna", a fun sustained moderate face climb to the right of bernalina.
as far as i can tell, bernalina is the first line of bolts you get to, where the trail hits the rock. there is a small semi-detached pillar/flake at the start where you could get some handjams off the ground. the hangers are silver, and the bolts are spaced out a... more >>
|
Location: International : Mexico : Pena de Bernal
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Dec 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: a little more beta, for those who find themselves wandering the central mexico rock scene. once you get to bernal, attempt the maze of uphill side streets until you find yourself at the base of the rock. a few pesos will pay the parking fees.
the via ferrata descent probably feels like 4th class on the way up, but on the way down it might get your attention if you're not on top of things. its not a via ferrata with cables, protection, etc. mostly a seriously fun down-monkeying with fattie rungs... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It might bear mentioning that I find the new falcon guide misleading about where the daff rap is. it mentions a rap starting from the tree in the 'north' corner. as far as i can tell, the tree and boulder with bolts in it is found at the E (or SE?) corner of the dome. walk towards lembert dome (or the meadows) from the summit.
the rap goes as two short single rope rappels. a 50m rope will easily suffice.
(there *are* trees in the north corner, but i dont see any anchors and it looks like a com... more >>
|
Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome route. pristine granite, twin hand cracks in a corner with a view.
if i recall correctly, we belayed at the base of the dihedral proper. then one very long pitch (that i seem to recall almost finishing our 60m) to a great stance with good gear where the angle kicks back just a bit. not a hanging belay. then a shorter pitch over the upper crux and onto ledges above. that first long pitch in the dihedral is wonderful.
shame it isnt longer. but- it means you can afford to start late (and... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Nov 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: a few years ago i put some approach beta together. there are great guidebooks out now, but just in case you're bored:
http://electricant.net/beta/ginger_approach.pdf
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Lembert Dome-West Face : Cucamonga Honey (5.10- PG13)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Oct 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: perfect climbing a stone's throw from the campground. too bad there's that one hard move right off the slab down low. if you're not into that kind of thing, pull on the draw. the rest of the route is worth it.
i went right at the crux and it didnt feel like .10a to me, but i might have been offroute, or i might have been paying too much attention to the slab below me.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Power Failure (5.10)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: re: john doe's neighbor route question: that route sounds like 'all you can eat'. i think its in the new guidebook. the first two pitches are fun, if you can stand the hard start (one move wonder- protects with tiny nuts or ballnuts above a bolt), and the second pitch is absolutely classic. splitter lieback to widening crack and eventually to a station. from there it follows a wandering bolt line through untraveled (ugly) rock and tops out on the buttress.
|
Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "alpine rock rack"? i was pleased to have a double set of cams, including blue aliens, and if you're not solid on straight-in hands and wide hands then youll want extra #2 and #3 camalots.
great route. every pitch was interesting and it was climbing all the way to the top. double ropes are great on this route.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Aunt Jemima (5.10a)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eagle Crag had an excellent trail that wrapped around the backside (as mentioned in the beta) that im guessing is a well-worn hiker's trail. so yes, im guessing townfolk would know. or the gear shop folks (btw- go to the guide shop.. the gear shop employees nearer the zion park entrance are useless for beta, as far as i can tell).
i cant remember if there is a big drop on the left on the road. cross the bridge, and drive straight like you're heading for the hills. just before the road winds rig... more >>
|
Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: i climbed from the ground, past the pendulum, to a decent stance in the corner far enough above the pendulum that my partner had a rope above him- all in one pitch that links comfortably with 60m doubles. (if you have double ropes, you can start putting pro in immediately after the tension traverse. just climb on one rope until the pendulum. you can be perfectly safe, and so can your partner). then another pitch that goes up to the not-so-awesome chains in the corner, steps right, and continues ... more >>
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Aunt Jemima (5.10a)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Aug 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: John- you're right. the approach beta could be better. BUT- both my partner and I think that the beta as-is should get any self-respecting climber to the base of the thing with no death-march aftertaste. there really are no tempting roads or trails or pullouts. follow the beta here and the logical line and then get off the trail below the tower backside. thats it. and bring your GPS, draw a map, and let the rest of us reap the benefits..
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: third time on the mace today. currently there is no register, if someone wants to bring up a notebook and a couple pencils.
we brought a single set of green alien to new #5 camalot, and an extra 1 and 2 to back up the beefy belay bolts. i was pretty happy with the rack, and might even add a couple finger size cams next time.
the top of pitch two is spicy without a big piece. i would venture to guess the new BD 6 would do OK. its a little bigger than the old 5. personally, i wuss out and ... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got beta from a couple folks before i got on earth angel and appreciated the help. this is me passing on the love. random musings, in no particular order-
approach: it wasnt clear to us where the thing was. i think the 30-40 minute estimate to the turn is a little conservative. we took the wrong drainage (add two and a half hours approach-'schwacking!! oops) so i dont know for sure, but i would venture to guess it will take most folks a deal more than 30 minutes to get to the turn. we hiked u... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this a couple times, and each time I am surprised at how slippery and technical I find the first pitch. After the first trad pitch, it's a relative cruise (except for one move off a ledge with a bolt that won't protect your ankles). Good clean fun, and the wild alternate finish is definitely recommended. The chimney is easier, but half scrambling and half chimney. It does have some bolts near the top of the chimney if you stay out of the back.
If you're not completely sure where the r... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re: Rex Parker's comment. I don't have my guidebooks nearby, but I'm pretty sure Birthday Cake is way right on the wall. I believe it is a low-angle route that wanders up the obvious weaknesses, not a steep(er) face route on the main face. I believe Bday Cake is the farthest right route on the Brownstone East formation.
Regarding your picture of the rap, I didn't see exactly where you are rapping from, but if it is where I think it is- the face just left of Armatron, right off the slab, that is... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Lembert Dome-West Face : Left Water Crack (5.7)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: one of the most obvious and unique lines in tuolumne. you better be cool-headed and bring some chalk if 5.7 is hard for you. i think that experienced wide/mountain climbers call this 5.7, and the rest spend a lot of time lunging to knee-stances and chalking up.
four or five bolts and chains at the top. a 70 would do it in one pitch. a 60 requires a little simul (which might be spicy as the opening friction is one of the harder technical moves and the leader is run out 40 feet).
Some folks ju... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Luxor Wall
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is mentioned briefly in a couple of the individual route descriptions, but there is a decent (but not awesome) threaded anchor near the top of the formation which avoids the 4th class descent. we left one sling and a ring up there. to beef it up, it woudl be nice to bring a long piece of webbing and maybe a nut or two. use black webbing.
i loved this tiny little crag. all three routes would be PG13 in standard RR-speak. to get a little more mileage, the face TRs just about anywhere at 5.7ish... more >>
|
RSS Feed
