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Whipping on Goliath


Member Since: Dec 16, 2005
Last Visit: Feb 12, 2014
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Point Rank: # 75
Total Points: 4,638
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
79 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anthony Stout been climbing?










Contributions


All 1122 | Routes 203 | Areas 91 | Photos 219 | Page Improvements | Comments 133 | Posts 50 | Stars 326 | Ratings 100
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Against Nature (aka Peter's... (5.12b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jul 9, 2007

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Comments: Note that the beta photo that I created is slightly incorrect on this route. I apologies for that. Should someone post a new photo I am more than happy to replace the current one.


Location: NM : El Rito
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 26, 2007

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Comments: Great! Uhhhh, makes me glad that I paid for the CD just a few months ago. Oh well, guess you gotta chalk it up to a donation for all the great work they put into it.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Church Rock
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 22, 2007

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Comments: Quite a vague description for the location posted here. I am assuming that there is probably good reason for that. For more detailed information on how to get to this tower one can look at the Gallup Guide.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Trash Tower : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 18, 2007

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Comments: Thanks for your correction. I deleted the original photo.

Tony


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: The route listed on the topo as unknown 5.9 is actually Slacker Ken. It has recently been bolted.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: The route listed on the topo as unknown 5.9 is actually Slacker Ken. It has recently been bolted.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : El Beerto (5.11c)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 11, 2007

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Comments: A nice route full of surprises. Not as straight forward as many routes in the area.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Rapunzel Wall : Unknown Arete (5.9)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 4, 2007

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Comments: Rumor has it that Walt Wilkinson put this route up last year. Not sure what he (if it was he) named or graded it however. Will have to ask him when I see him again.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Rapunzel Wall
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 4, 2007

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Comments: Rumor has it that Walt Wilkinson put this route up last year. Not sure what he (if it was he) named or graded it however. Will have to ask him when I see him again.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Pogue's Arete (5.11-)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 3, 2007

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Comments: Again as last year, there is a bird nesting in this route. My suggestion is that people stay off it (though many people do not care about my suggestion and climb it anyhow). It is a Canyon Wren. Was fun to watch and listen to while we climbed nearby.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Schoolhouse Slab : Short Bus (5.7+)
By: Anthony Stout When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: The route was bolted by Vaino Kodas in 2006 and the first ascentionists are as above. To see Vaino's own descriptions of his routes see:
vainokodas.com/

There are also some other goods there, especially if you are both a climber and an engineer.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 30, 2007

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Comments: Thanks to all who have submitted comments with their thoughts on Last Chance Canyon.

It seems that the decision whether to post or not to post directions to the area on this site should be based on access concerns alone. Nobody wishes for access to be revoked to the area. Some have expressed that posting the area will increase visibility, and that more climbers in the area may make the forest service more receptive to including climbing within their management plan. Others have feared that i... more >>


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 19, 2007

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Comments: "Local climbers should get together and host a "clean up" day at the new area. I felt like I was in a rural ghetto with all of the trash. The bullet holes in the rock made me think twice about climbing for fear of becoming a target."

It's Gallup, and that is all I can say about that. The local climbers have done MANY, many clean-ups, nearly yearly. The area used to be a dump, and the city paid to have truck loads of stuff removed. When I lived there we also removed truckloads of stuff. It's fut... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Bats out of Hell (5.11d)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 11, 2006

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Comments: Technical, sequency, great moves and lie-backs, and a funky heady surprise at the end, this route seems a classic for the area!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Under Attack (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 8, 2006

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Comments: Agreed. On the hard side of 12a for Jacks, but right on compared to many other places.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Genesis (5.10d)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 8, 2006

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Comments: 100% agreed!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Suntoucher (5.11b/c)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 8, 2006

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Comments: RE doing the climb in two long pitches, yes. You would probably want a few long slings to avoid the rope drag. Pitch one and two would be best to combine. The anchors are over a lip, so if you did link the first two pitches I would either skip clipping the anchors or use a very long sling.

I personally am not sure that I would want to combine pitches 3 and 4 because you would have hellish rope weight/drag for pulling the crux, which is way at the top. But if you are OK with that, you would hav... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Ixtlan (5.11c)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 7, 2006

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Comments: To avoid the hanging belay on the first pitch(I hate hanging belays!):

Lead through the first pitch on draws (not taking gear through the 5.11 section). Clip into the anchor and lower the end of the rope down and have your partner attach your rack. Continue through the 5.10 crack and belay your partner through the first two pitches from the second pitch.

The offwidth kicked my ass! Certainly not my specialty as I have not had a lot of practice with offwidth technique. Also, a #5 will n... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 7, 2006

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Comments: Agreed on the cruxes, felt harder than 5.10a. I did not see a bolted belay as described in the description (except for at the top, where you rap). Nice route thought. Did in two pitches as described in other posts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 7, 2006

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Comments: Overbolted, yes. Fun, mmm, it was alright as noted above. We just skipped many of the bolts. I don't remember how many draws we took but did it in one long pitch. The first pitch uses 16 draws in about 100" of climbing (whats even more funny is that the first bolt is fairly high!). You can easily continue through a second pitch (combining the two) with a 60 meter rope, which has 4 more bolts (spaced much further apart). The leader can then be lowered to the first set of anchors, and rap to the g... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Evil Paradise Area : Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka T... (5.10c)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 4, 2006

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Comments: Thanks! I really appreciate that information, added. What a great first ascent, I really enjoyed this route!

Tony


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 4, 2006

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Comments: Thanks for your more complete descriptions of this route! I used your comments for a better description of the actual route. It's always preferable to have comments from people who have actually climbed the routes!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : The Second Coming (5.8)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 4, 2006

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Comments: "I suspect there is more than 1 way to start the 3rd pitch: For us the 3rd pitch initially went up a nice left-facing dihedral/corner (versus Anthony's right-facing corner) and then mid-pitch one traverses left and up to a right-facing corner; up that and on top is a ledge with the pin and bolt."

Bill is correct, we did follow a left facing dihedral, to the left, then to a right facing dihedral. It was a typo on the description that has been corrected. Thanks Bill.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Anthony Stout When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: If you wish to climb in the Pogues Cave area, please see comment regarding Pogue's Arete.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area
By: Anthony Stout When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: See comment RE Pogue's Arete.


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