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Whipping on Goliath


Member Since: Dec 16, 2005
Last Visit: Feb 12, 2014
Contact Anthony Stout


Point Rank: # 74
Total Points: 4,638
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
79 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anthony Stout been climbing?










Contributions


All 1122 | Routes 203 | Areas 91 | Photos 219 | Page Improvments | Comments 133 | Posts 50 | Stars 326 | Ratings 100
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas
By: Anthony Stout When: Feb 12, 2008

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Comments: Please see the below information. It came as an email to me regarding some vandalism to pictographs at the Socorro box.

-------------
There has been a serious incident at the Box, in the large shelter
upslope and northeast of the parking lot, with the large zigzag and
diamond-pattern pictograph. Someone used climbing chalk to make their own form of pictographs just right of the large pictograph. This is vandalism of the most serious kind and a federal crime. But even worse, under the public ... more >>


Location: NM
By: Anthony Stout When: Feb 4, 2008

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Comments: Thanks! Glad you like it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Violince Wall
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 31, 2008

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Comments: Hmmmm, I changed it back to Violince Wall...


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - North Side : Rigid Deffacator (WI3)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: Seems like you might wish to consider retiring your gear after getting that stuff on it! Yuck!


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 22, 2008

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Comments: After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Servicesí current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Ple... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Black Plague (5.13b) : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 22, 2008

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Comments: Nice access fund t-shirt!


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall : Home Brew (5.10b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: Although short, this climb is really good for the grade. Aesthetic movement and, as many climbs at Socorro, sequency. Probably one of the best 10s I have done at Socorro. Would just be nice if it was a bit longer, but, that's just New Mexico sport climbing for ya (excluding the tower)!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande
By: Anthony Stout When: Nov 28, 2007

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Comments: It is called Rapture, although I don't know much more about it than its name.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Ralph's Leisure Suit (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: Ditto for the crack contrivance at the top. Additionally, the third bolt placement could be better. After you clip the second bolt, you continue a few moves above the bolt to a great stance (where a bolt would be helpful), then do a few semi-difficult moves where if you fall you could find yourself with a sore ankle on the slab below. Of course, you have a great pocket to finally clip the third bolt. The rest of the climb is protected well.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: A great route with a pronounced crux! As described above requires a very long reach, probably more difficult for shorter climbers.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Flotsam & Jetsam (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: As stated above, where there used to be a large platform, there is now just dirt. I found using a stick clip comforting as it's a difficult first clip and some of the lower foot holds were flexing on me. Note that you used to be able to reach up and clip the first bolt from the "ground".... Or a platform that was there in the past.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: My standard rack for anything in the Sandia's typically consists of doubles (camalots) from 0.3 to #2 with one #3, a few smaller cams (C3s), a full set of nuts, and 10 slings. Slings are important because so many routes wander, though you could probably get away with less than ten on most routes with some quick draws (I don't have to extend all of them but I do end up slinging most of my pieces). If the route description ever recommends bringing any pieces larger, I typically do.

Ho... more >>


Location: CO : Hubers - Nose Record Update...
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 6, 2007

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Comments: October 4 has come and gone..... Any news?


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Never Never Land (5.12a/b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: Try a heel-hook at the crux! Makes that insane crimp just a bit easier to deal with!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Crying Time Again (5.9+)
By: Anthony Stout When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: Several pitches can be linked with a 60 meter rope. We did this climb in three long pitches, although I would not at all recommend this! The first and second pitches were easy links. The third and fourth, it really sucked! REALLY BAD ROPE DRAG! The fifth and sixth were good to link up (we did the 10a variation). So if you want to link pitches, I would recommend doing it in four pitches rather than three (1 and 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6).


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : Alien (5.9)
By: Anthony Stout When: Sep 11, 2007

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Comments: Hmmm, that's a good question, I wish I had remembered to count those links. Sorry.

Tony


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande
By: Anthony Stout When: Sep 11, 2007

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Comments: Thanks George for that clarification. I added your comments to the "getting there" section above. Please let me know if you have any more comments!

Tony


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : Alien (5.9)
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 26, 2007

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Comments: At the top of this route, there are two bolts. One has chains on it while the other has webbing connected to a rap ring to equalize the rappel. The webbing appeared that it needed to be replaced either with new webbing or a chain to match the other side. I will attempt to do this the next time I get out there (if I remember), or if someone else gets to it first that would be great!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : ... : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 20, 2007

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Comments: Note: Something I forgot to add in the topo that is in the description is it is nice to have at least one #3 Camalot.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : Clip Art (5.11d)
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: Was contacted by Scott Beguin who noted Ken Kisiel and Denny Newell as FA.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : Good (5.10b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: I was contacted by Scott Beguin, who noted Scott Beguin, Ken Kisiel, and Billy Butler.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 8, 2007

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Comments: My intention was not to sell NM climbing short. I certainly enjoy the climbing here and always look forward to more. I agree that there are some world class climbs around here. Enchanted tower and Questa are two named examples. However, I still think that if I had to compare my personal experiences in world class areas to the majority of climbs here in NM (and you are correct in suggesting even many places outside of New Mexico), most would be 1-2 stars. For example, trying to compare the Sandia... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: This is a great conversation. Both of you have made great points and I have enjoyed reading your opinions. One thing that comes to my mind, however, is that if you are giving star ratings based on all the routes in the world or all the routes that you have climbed, the vast majority of the routes in New Mexico would be no more than one or two stars. Because of this, the star ratings I give have always been based on each individual area.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : Drunk Rednecks with Golf Cl... (5.8+)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jul 29, 2007

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Comments: Great route for the grade. Lots of pulls going the "wrong" way make for great opositional movement. Sort of a signature for Diablo.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) (5.11b/c)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jul 10, 2007

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Comments: Well stated, Monomaniac. Also, Matthew, as stated in another comment, it would be great if you could use the green button to submit your opinion on star ratings and grades. One of the great attributes of MP is that it averages people opinions so that routes can be rated (both quality and graded) via consensus. Of course, you are also welcome to justify all of your ratings in the comments if you so desire.

Cheers, Tony


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