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Whipping on Goliath


Member Since: Dec 16, 2005
Last Visit: Feb 12, 2014
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Point Rank: # 76
Total Points: 4,638
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anthony Stout been climbing?










Contributions


All 1122 | Routes 203 | Areas 91 | Photos 219 | Page Improvements | Comments 133 | Posts 50 | Stars 326 | Ratings 100
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Tombstone : West Face Direct (5.8)
By: Anthony Stout When: Nov 12, 2009

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Comments: A death block in the Sandias?! I can't for the life of me imagine that :)

I'm sure your cleaning will be appreciated by the next ascent party!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Medusa (5.12c)
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 27, 2009

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Comments: Great movement but the rock is worse than that of any other route on the tower. Sent a few chunks toward my belayer but nothing substantial. Certainly worth doing if you have run out of tower routes. Fortunately, none of the actual holds broke on me, though some appear suspect.


Location: NM : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Kevin -

Problem is, I created it long ago and have not had the time or patience to really update it. Much has been added since its creation. With GPS coordinates and mapping now, this type picture is not all that necessary anymore. Another reason I have not really updated it.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Glenda (5.12a/b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: A really fun route - it seems to be cleaning up nicely. It's a worthy addition to the tower. I felt it to be a bit more difficult than both Tehnowitch and Rumplestilskin. And although it has been a while since I have done Full Rubber Mission (it's always difficult to compare these things), I felt the crux move after going through the no rest lower moves was at least as difficult as anything on Full Rubber Mission. After passing through the bulge to the arete, there are really no opportunities to... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Anthony Stout When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: Augie - Probably not. I would much rather camp at the tower campground than at Datil well, as I am sure the majority of climbers would as well. Nothing like being right at the crag when you wake up in the morning. There are few places that is an option.

If you have never used one of those wag bags it's really not all that bad. Seriously. Everything is quite contained. I recommend giving it a whorl.

Tom brought up another good option, the luggable loo. It's a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it. I... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 19, 2009

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Comments: This is a good and necessary discussion.

The idea of wag bags = a good one in my opinion. When I get around to it, I will include a link to this discussion and add some comments to the area description.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (01) East Corridor Wall : Twig but No Berries (5.10b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: Arthur,

You should add what you thought the grade is (if you sent the route). This way we can get a consensus grade out of it. I agree with you, some of those more slabby routes at mentmore feel a bit harder than what they are graded. For example, Butter Toes was originally graded 5.10c, I felt it was at least 11 a or b. I think Scott (route setter) must be really good at climbing sandstone slab. He really is the specialist for that area.


Location: International : North America : Cayman Brac : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: It appears that La Esparanza has changed a little since November 08, when hurricane Paloma slammed the island. The green fence and the bushes were not there when we were in March 09. Hope Bob the cat made it!

Though this place was highly recommended, our experience here was unfortunate. There was a crazy drunk local in the bar singing really bad karaoke and following the ladies in our group around. After a beer, we went somewhere else.


Location: International : North America : Cayman Brac : The Northeast Point : Chicken of the Sea (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 13, 2009

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Comments: Because this was listed as "possibly the best route on the island" by John Byrnes, I just HAD to try it. Unfortunately, I was forced to top-rope rather than lead this beauty since no other climbers in my party could ascend the grade. When you can't get up something at the point, you don't just go back to the ground. So, top roping it was. Never the less, a worthy route it is!

Also unfortunate with me and this route was that we somehow ended up with the extra short static line from the Bluff Vie... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.6)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 10, 2009

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Comments: I used that guide once to find a route on Muerella Grande. We ended up on the completely wrong route. I would think you did well in at least you found the route! I have not been super impressed with that guide. Sandia Rock is much better.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Minas Boreas (Tower of the ... (5.13c/d)
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: Oh no, bootie is bootie, it's Chris' fair and square! No worries, I have more :)


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Minas Boreas (Tower of the ... (5.13c/d)
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: Hmmm, no wonder this thing felt so damn hard. Cause it is.

I thought I was on Boss Hog when I got onto this one. I hope whoever was the lucky recipient of my bail beaner enjoys it.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 30, 2009

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Comments: Hey Jason,

I was there at the beginning and middle of March. Conditions were excellent. Road was fine, you should have no problem getting in there. If you go this weekend I hope to run into you!


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Sinister Dane (5.13b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: Discussion continued here......


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Sinister Dane (5.13b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: It most certainly validates the idea of having star ratings for the areas and not only climbs. It's an idea that has come up before. I will mention it again to the admins and the site developers.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Too High for Bry (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: This route needs a little reinforcement from a certain someone to keep it from falling apart. Some of the holds flex when you grab them, which is certainly less than inspiring. Timy, where are you now?!

I would agree with the .12a grade, certainly easier than Little Caterpillar


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : White Witch (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: I would have to agree that this line is squeezed and adds very little uniqueness to the tower. It's fun and worth doing if you're trying to tick off all the tower routes, but certainly the worst of it's grade on the tower. Both a middle section and the upper section are shared holds with Rumplestilskin. If your not paying close attention(as me) and focused on clipping the bolts in front of you, you will end up clipping the bolt on Rumplestilskin, going back on route, and can find your self with ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Domingo Baca Canyon, Lower : Lower Domingo Baca Slabs (A... : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Feb 11, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Bill!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Domingo Baca Canyon, Lower : Lower Domingo Baca Slabs (A...
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 22, 2009

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Comments: My opinion is just one and certainly does not represent any sort of consensus! Just my own two cents. So if there is any objection to what we are discussing, please let it be known.

When/if you do decide to make a climbers trail to the area, I would suggest keeping it pretty low key, but also marking the trail with cairns so that others can find it!

Best of luck!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Red River Area
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 21, 2009

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Comments: The area to the right of roadside distraction appears to be the scene of someone's epic adventure (either one or even multiple parties). Looking up at the rock to the right of this crag there are at least two ropes stuck high on the rock.

Anyone have any good stories to tell?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Domingo Baca Canyon, Lower : Lower Domingo Baca Slabs (A...
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 21, 2009

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Comments: If this is a place that people might visit on a regular basis, I see no problem with a little trail maintenance (or actually, creating a trail in general). It seems it would actually be the best thing to do in order to prevent erosion.

However, if it is only going to be visited once or twice per year, all your work might be for nothing as things will just grow back.

I have no idea how many people go up there. When we went there I felt like we were the first to have visited the place in many y... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 24, 2008

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Comments: Is that what the visual aura of a migrain looks like? Good to know!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Pale Face (5.11+)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 17, 2008

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Comments: Long route and fun climbing but this thing appears to need a little more cleaning! Several X "death chunks" tarnish this route (at least, I think they are bad holds, I didn't feel like testing on the way up, nor did I put the X's on them). It's kind of frustrating when the best hold, right in front of you, has a big X on it!

Fortunately, the bolts are well placed and any fall would be of no consequence.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 1, 2008

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Comments: I found it technical but my beta apparently was completely different than DTP's. After finally sending my fingers were close to bloody. The crimps are pretty sharp.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (03) Wall of Dreams : Crescent Moon (5.10d R)
By: Anthony Stout When: Sep 3, 2008

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Comments: The route setter has noted to me that he will add another bolt to this climb to protect the run-out section. If someone sees this change, please let me know and I can change the description above, and the R rating.

Tony


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