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Another Anthony (me) on Unnamed BP #2.


Member Since: Oct 29, 2008
Last Visit: Sep 7, 2014
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Point Rank: # 219
Total Points: 2,431
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anthony Baraff been climbing?










Contributions


All 743 | Routes 120 | Areas 37 | Photos 129 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 56 | Stars 355 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Outsiders (5.8)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I just did this today. I think the bush is definitely dead. I see where it probably once was on the right crack. There is one final move before topping out the cracks that probably makes this 5.7+ to 5.8.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Groovy "direct" and Space Invaders "direct" have nothing to do with one another. I've done them both. Groovy "direct" goes directly up through the Groovy roof. Space Invader's direct version goes right of this through a series of pockets and crimps. I've led the Groovy version but only done the Invaders version on TR. I don't think the gear on the Space Invaders direct version is particularly good.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Montserrat : ... : La Que Faltava (5.6)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: I think that the anchors may have been updated and the route may have been rebolted. There were far more bolts on P1 than indicated in this site or in the 2009 "Montserrat Rock Climbs Sant Benet & Gorros". I also didn't find a short 2nd pitch. It appears as though someone sensibly evened out the lengths of the 4 pitches by moving the anchors. Over all this is an okay introductory/warm-up climb for the area (solid rock, very frequent bolts, easy climbing and a nice view from the summit) but t... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: Anthony Baraff When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Hey Seth, I think a fall at the crux section is fine, but what happens it you come off climbing the 8-10 feet past the ledge (the section where you have to pebble pinch) once the real difficulty is done? I'm guessing that you'd break an ankle because there's no gear to keep you from hitting the ledge. This is the part that I am pointing out as not G rated. SketchySam seems to be traversing over to avoid this, "Stellar route! For the well protected version, traverse way left on the ledge after... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: Stannard's roof


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone intentionally or unintentionally done the 5.8 P3 variation listed in the super-topo guide. Instead of traversing right at the piton after escaping the chimney. I accidentally continued straight up the crack after accidentally leaving the guidebook in the car. Super-topo calls it "a more sparsely protected variation", but I think it was still G/PG. It's a mix of face holds, hand jams and off-width feet. Definitely keeps your attention. My only complaint is that I lost my C4 @POUN... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9) : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Definitely Directissima. It's a great exposed jug haul from this point onward. I don't think there is anything slab like.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Doug's Roof : Unnamed DA 2 (V0) : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: Climbs that are already published should probably be listed as their published names. That said, I think that everything else should be given a real name. Who wants to have climbed "Unnamed DA #43" when they could have climbed "Blood Sport" or "See Spot Run"? Slap a name on it and if someone wants to come forward with prior FA information then the site can be updated by an administrator.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Doug's Roof : Unnamed DA 2 (V0) : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: Oct 18, 2011

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Comments: It's the nomenclature that is used in the Greene and Russo guide. I think that DA stands for Doug's Area. I stuck with the same names to make sure that there was as little confusion as possible for people using the guide.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Uberfall problems : The Goldstone Bulge (V0)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: I'm not sure how we should disambiguate the boulder problem listed in the guide incorrectly as the Goldstone Bulge from the correct problem which Rich put up. They are both clearly climbable problems. Does it make sense to split them into to with a separate entry for the one in the guide? We could call that Goldstone Bulge (misnomer) or Goldstone Bulge (guide listing)?


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : Cala Barques : ... : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: The Metrosexual area is the cave to the right. There isn't really any climbing in the cave to the left.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Anthony Baraff When: Mar 29, 2011

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Comments: Would any administrator mind if I started adding stuff about the boulders? The bouldering at Peter's Kill is awesome and the main reason I go there (besides a few really awesome climbs).

There's lots of good bouldering there. Get the ball rolling.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Kama Sutra Area : Green Dihedral (V0) : Photo (Copy)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Mar 10, 2011

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Comments: I think that I was standing on a rock by the side of the carriage road.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Maybe I can clear this up - I was belaying the climber. If you look at how far right the last gear on the red rope is, you'll see it would be worse to have the rope run inside the right leg rather than over it.

There's clearly more risk of getting flipped sideways after catching a heel, but all of this is a moot point as the climber would certainly hit the ledge below him long before there was any tension on the red rope.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : J'accuse (5.10b PG13)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Oct 25, 2010

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Comments: The Grey Guide suggests that there is a piton somewhere above the bolt. As of this past weekend 10/23/2010 there was none to be found. There are some challenging moves above the bolt (including several with no hands) until you get to the next spot where you can place any gear which makes the first 30 feet of the route very intimidating. Be sure to get gear before the bolt too.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle
By: Anthony Baraff When: Oct 5, 2010

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Comments: A friend and I got out there for a day of climbing after getting rained out in Tahoe. The rock is pretty chossy and the difficulty usually lets up after the second bolt, but it was a fun way to spend the day. The YDS grades listed on this site are frequently off by two whole numbers. I spent last weekend at Smith Rock and can attest that Monster Quest is considerably easier than any of the 5.10a climbs you will find there.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Hobolicous (5.7)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Oct 5, 2010

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Comments: The crumbly moss covered rock is the only thing to add interest to this otherwise easy and boring outing. If you are looking for a route to skip on the pinnacle this is it.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Aperitif (5.10a)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Oct 5, 2010

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Comments: This was the most sustained of the 7 or so routes we did. Unfortunately, it's more of a 5.9 than a 5.10.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: A friend and I did Bastille Crack a few weeks ago. I have a question about the final pitch variations. I the new (awesome) Eldo Guide book it lists an 8- PG variation that climbs the corner off-width and it lists an 8+ PG-13 variation that takes the nice crack just to the left of the off-width. We did the "8- PG" variation which approximately matches the "fun finish" listed above, and found the gear by the crux to be a little lacking. Maybe a #5 would protect the last few moves up the ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders
By: Anthony Baraff When: Feb 23, 2010

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Comments: The right-hand Pebbles boulder has received an accidental face lift.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: Thanks again for the input. I'll make the corrections shortly. I was just going by what was written and indicated in the Greene and Russo guide "Climb the edges and crack to the left." I felt that this was substantially easier than V3 which is why I downgraded it, clearly there was another reason.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: Dick Williams lists many climbs like this as G because the crux is G although there may be substantial PG-13 or R rated climbing before or after the crux, i.e. (Land's End Direct, The Blackout) Personally, I don't think either of those routes are G; ditto that for this one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : The Dangler (5.10a) : Photo
By: Anthony Baraff When: Dec 17, 2009

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Comments: Wow, surprised that you didn't place something on the face before heading out on the inverted traverse. Falling and blowing that one piece before getting the the second piece of traverse gear in would result in a very ugly fall.


Location: NV : Lone Mountain
By: Anthony Baraff When: Dec 10, 2009

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Comments: What guidebook includes route information on Lone Mountain?

Did the legwork myself, aparently Islands in the Sky, by Dan McQuade, Randy Leavitt, and Mick Ryan as well as Las Vegas Limestone, by Roxanna Brock have info.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Mary (5.6)
By: Anthony Baraff When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: I did Bloody Mary on Saturday. The gear is great the whole way up--including the 5.3 walk up above the P2 roof. I do know that there was a severe spinal injury that took place on this route last autumn. Someone fell while clipping their 3rd piece and their second piece came unclipped some how. I can't see how this is a function of the route however.


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