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Member Since: Nov 1, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact another Chad

Point Rank: # 541
Total Points: 1,227
Last Year: 164
Last 30 Days: 14
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has another Chad been climbing?










Contributions


All 625 | Routes 35 | Areas 2 | Photos 141 | Page Improvements | Comments 142 | Posts 1 | Stars 168 | Ratings 136
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Reminded me a bit of Smith Rock's Heinous Cling, though easier and less scary.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crash Landing (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: The best crimps I've ever felt. Awesome little climb.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Really thrilled to have been able to climb Pick Pocket. The route is fantastic and it was nice to climb a Bachar route.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (4) Gold Wall : Beyond the Glory (5.11d)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Brunt, either way works. It seems that most people stop at the Screaming For Change anchor.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Tofutti Cutie (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Charlie! Looking forward to getting back on this route when I get back.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Hellboy (5.11)
By: another Chad When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: My $.02

The easy half of Stepchild + pulling out of a roof on jugs + good edges covered in pine needles = 5.12a?! Gimme a break. Well Hung (supposedly 5.10b) at Broughton Bluff is very similar in style but harder. To me, Hellboy feels only slightly harder than House of Pain.

Really fun route.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : Headless Horseman (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Kent!


Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Cindyrella (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Two & a half years ago I posted the comment above. Crickets. Today I removed the bare stud between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. As I said before, it appears that this was the remnant of an older retrobolting.

Phillip is right, the bolt protecting the crux (2nd bolt) was a rusted out piece of junk. I replaced it today with beefy SS hardware.


Chad


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Area 51
By: another Chad When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: "From SE Portland to crag takes 1 hour and 15 Minutes."

Unless you are going by helicopter this is absolutely untrue. It takes a little over an hour to get to Government Camp from inner Portland. From Government Camp it takes about an hour get to Area 51.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Nick, spot-on comment. I often think the same thing on the way up to Kashmir.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : The Watchman (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: I'm glad this got put on to MP as a 5.10c as that's what Tim swore the grade was. With my crappy technique, I always thought is was a bit harder.


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Progressive Climax (5.8+)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Great warm-up and a really fun route.


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Northern Pearl (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: The FFA of Northern Pearl was a free solo. After six hours of cleaning this route, 5 more minutes in a harness didn't seem appealing!


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Slow Dance (5.10a)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Slow Dance is one of my favorite climbs are Rock Creek.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Pearl Jam (5.9)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Detached, but seemingly stable blocks form the left side of the crack on the top half of Pearl Jam; because of this, all gear placements through this section are suspect.

Detached blocks are highlighted in red.
Detached blocks are highlighted in red.



Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Northern Pearl (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Detached, but seemingly stable blocks form the left side of the crack on the top half of Northern Pearl; because of this, all gear placements through this section are suspect.

Detached blocks are highlighted in red.
Detached blocks are highlighted in red.



Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Stratosphere : Licorice Line (5.8+)
By: another Chad When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Micah!!

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Heinous Cling (5.12c)
By: another Chad When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: "So this route is 12a to the first anchors right? Then 12c to the 2nd anchors?"

Yes. To clarify the route description above, the 5.12c section is not another pitch, it's the complete line.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : License To Bolt (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Interesting climb. The challenge of the crux drew me in. Reaching the two finger pocket is a full extension deadpoint for me (at 5'9" tall). And then what the hell do you do with your feet?! It took some experimenting and swearing. Thanks for the patient belays!

Hardest 5.11c I've ever done.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S...
By: another Chad When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Mike.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall : Cows in Agony (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The anchor atop this route has aluminum Metolius hangers (not rap hangers) with nothing on them except for a locking carabiner that's stuck on the right hanger. The next time someone's out there to climb this or neighboring Cliff Dwelling Crack, consider bringing up a pair of pliers to unscrew the carabiner gate that's stuck up there and installing some quicklinks & rings. Replacing the aluminum hangers with steel hangers would be nice also (you'll need a 1/2" socket for the bolts that are up ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Beacon Rock
By: another Chad When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: What a bummer. I always thought it was great that Beacon Rock was listed as being in Oregon. I think it was somewhat of a mischievous climber thing as well as a nod to Jeff Thomas's comment that the best climbing in Oregon is at Beacon Rock (or something to that effect).


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : I Almost Died (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: A friend told me that the name came from the risky nature of the climb when lead with only passive protection (as that was all that was available at the time). I can't image climbing I Almost Died with only only nuts and hexes. Yikes!

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S...
By: another Chad When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: What's the name/grade of the newer sport route on the left side of the Brum Wall? Left of Chemical Ali in a large, left-leaning dihedral.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Teddy Bear's Picnic (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: "The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary?


You can get down Teddy Bear's Picnic with one rope but you'll have to make more than one rappel.



Chad


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