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Member Since: Nov 1, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact another Chad


Point Rank: # 556
Total Points: 1,123
Last Year: 372
Last 30 Days: 1
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has another Chad been climbing?










Contributions


All 550 | Routes 31 | Areas 2 | Photos 130 | Page Improvements | Comments 132 | Posts 1 | Stars 143 | Ratings 111
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Heinous Cling (5.12c)
By: another Chad When: 6 days ago

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Comments: "So this route is 12a to the first anchors right? Then 12c to the 2nd anchors?"

Yes. To clarify the route description above, the 5.12c section is not another pitch, it's the complete line.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Phoenix : License To Bolt (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Interesting climb. The challenge of the crux drew me in. Reaching the two finger pocket is a full extension deadpoint for me (at 5'9" tall). And then what the hell do you do with your feet?! It took some experimenting and swearing. Thanks for the patient belays!

Hardest 5.11c I've ever done.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers
By: another Chad When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Mike.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Cows in Agony (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The anchor atop this route has aluminum Metolius hangers (not rap hangers) with nothing on them except for a locking carabiner that's stuck on the right hanger. The next time someone's out there to climb this or neighboring Cliff Dwelling Crack, consider bringing up a pair of pliers to unscrew the carabiner gate that's stuck up there and installing some quicklinks & rings. Replacing the aluminum hangers with steel hangers would be nice also (you'll need a 1/2" socket for the bolts that are up ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Beacon Rock
By: another Chad When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: What a bummer. I always thought it was great that Beacon Rock was listed as being in Oregon. I think it was somewhat of a mischievous climber thing as well as a nod to Jeff Thomas's comment that the best climbing in Oregon is at Beacon Rock (or something to that effect).


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (4) Gold Wall : Screaming for Change (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: There are four bolts above the chimney, for what it's worth.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : I Almost Died (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: A friend told me that the name came from the risky nature of the climb when lead with only passive protection (as that was all that was available at the time). I can't image climbing I Almost Died with only only nuts and hexes. Yikes!

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers
By: another Chad When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: What's the name/grade of the newer sport route on the left side of the Brum Wall? Left of Chemical Ali in a large, left-leaning dihedral.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Teddy Bear's Picnic (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: "The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary?


You can get down Teddy Bear's Picnic with one rope but you'll have to make more than one rappel.



Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Space Between (5.10+) : Photo
By: another Chad When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: "It's not a TR, it's a second or follow."

Is that right.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (91) Breakfast Cracks
By: another Chad When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Here's the set up for top-roping several of the Breakfast Cracks classics.

Blackberry Jam
With a 50 foot (give or take) static rope, tie an end around the large fir tree that's 40 feet back from the top of the climb. Pull the rope to the edge of the climb. During this process you'll be attached to the rope with a Grigri. Tie a loop in the end of the rope and attach a locking carabiner to it. Put the center of your climbing rope through the locking carabiner and toss it over the cliff. Ba... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Wall In-Between : Burning from the Inside (5.11d)
By: another Chad When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Feels harder than Angular Motion.

I replaced the anchor webbing today. The old tat was amazingly well camouflaged with moss and lichen.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Ship Rock : West Chimney (5.7 X) : Photo
By: another Chad When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Good god that's ugly!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Breakdown in Paradise (5.10b)
By: another Chad When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: This route looks like it would be fun but climbs like crap. Following the bolts slavishly felt like 5.11a to me.


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (7) Heaven's Wall : Stairway to Heaven (5.6)
By: another Chad When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: Micah, the anchor bolts at the top of Stairway to Heaven have not been removed (Heaven's Ledge Anchor). The original black Metolius Rap hangers are still there. I talked with Mike bout this. The post above should probably be deleted.

There are bomber placements two feet horizontally from where the first bolt on Stairway to Heaven used to be (C4 #2 or #3).

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Crack boulder problem.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: another Chad When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Ryan, you can lower to the ground with a 60m rope from the top of Pinhead and have a couple feet to spare. That is if you are getting up there via Sheer Stress. Approaching from Sheer Energy or anything else probably wouldn't work with a 60m.


Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (91) Breakfast Cracks : Espresso (5.9) : Photo
By: another Chad When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Espresso is the hand crack that starts to the left of the rope. Red Zinger is the crack that arches to the right.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (2) Middle Earth : Helm's Deep (5.9)
By: another Chad When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Great route description. Never have placed gear on it either but if the grade is near your limit then it might be worthwhile.


Chad


Location: NC : The Dump : Voodoo Child (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Harder than Vermin.


Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13) : Photo
By: another Chad When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for posting these. Great photos.

Chad


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: another Chad When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: perfect


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (3) Snake Wall : Opdyke's Crack (5.9+)
By: another Chad When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: This is my favorite gear climb at Ozone. Clean & solid, good gear, long, and a decent dose of exposure make for a fun time.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Animal Farm (5.10b/c)
By: another Chad When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Fairly fun climbing with the occasional choss.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (9) New School Wall : Dad's Nuts (5.9)
By: another Chad When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: The loose rock on this route is unnerving.


Chad


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