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Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 23
Total Points: 10,189
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
276 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (5116) | Routes (356) | Areas (49) | Photos (401) | Comments (3889) | Posts (19) | Stars (402) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 30, 2005

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Comments: Did this route back in September of '05 and had no problems finding any of the rap stations. My only concern is setting up for the 4th rap after walking 50 ft from the 3rd. Make sure not to throw your ropes skier's right (looking down). There is a large flake that could potentially catch your ropes, and appears to have some history . Had no problems but just a heads up. If it's windy, you can butterfly coil or lower the first. Awesome route. Spectacular summit. Do this climb during the we... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Center Route (V10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 29, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...1st ascent by David Twinam...late '80s early '90s. Unrepeated for a long time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: I would have to agree with Jason about the placement at the lip of the roof on pitch 2. I led it for the first time today and skipped the placement at the lip. [It] appeared as though a placement at the lip would just take away a good hand hold and you can get tons of gear in the roof itself. I fell once at almost the lip, and the angle of the wall in relation to your placements in the roof makes for a surprisingly soft landing. Great route, solid 5.10


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Unknown (5.8+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: Grid a granite slab??? Huh.. always found that kinda shit offensive. Need a crow bar Troy? I got a big one. Funny how nobody is claiming the route as theirs, or somebody's buddy isn't sticking up for it........I hear the delicate sound of bolts being yanked......lol...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: Yeah, it's mine. An old oval, probably REI. 2nd to last bolt if I remember correctly.

It was getting late....no excuses though, stupid to leave it. I'm headed back tomorrow and it was my intention to remove it.

I hate leaving stuff like that behind, especially when we're trying to keep on the down low.

Anyway, keep it. You deserve it. It's never been dropped, so consider it good to go. Thanks for cleaning up my mess :)

I'm AK, not TG.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Unknown (5.8+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 27, 2005

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Comments: good canadite for the crow bar.......


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 27, 2005

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Comments: I don't know the names of any of the climbs, but I did do the most classic line within my ability. The line was the first one you come across and was about 10-12 bolts....the longest of the group. I think the rating was about 11a/b, maybe a bit harder.

Had to back clean a couple draws in order to make it to the top. The thing was kinda like the Energizer Bunny...kept going and going.

Secret Agent Man...great DEVO tune. Kinda dates me I guess.

Going back this weekend


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Don Genaro Crack (5.10a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 26, 2005

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Comments: great route. The start is a bit run out, but stick with it. A bit stout for the grade.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Concupiscent Curds (5.10b)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 26, 2005

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Comments: The cold shunt anchors at the top are wearing thin.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Rack: 1-2 sets HB offset nuts1 set nuts, 2x Aliens blue-yellow2x Camalots .5 - .753x Camalots #1 - #32x Camalots #3.5 - #4.5#5 Camalotcamhook

Santa Klaus really is a death chimney. If hauling, make sure you move the pig up to the base of Calvinator.

The bivy at the Second Ledges is merely OK.

Can leave the big gear at the base of the aid pitch -- only need to #4 thereafter.

Aid pitch had only 10 feet of C2, then was bomber C1 to the belay. Used couple ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake - West Gully (WI4)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Was up at the West Gully Sunday for the first time. It's in/not in, not really that much ice but we did climb it. I personally brought a rope gun and was glad, had tons of fun. The fattest ice seem ed be on the 3rd pitch, way off to the right of the slabs in a steep corner thing. It's probably a named route but beats the hell out of me, first time. We moved some booty around and there's a decent rap/free biners on faaaarr right. [Definitely] other ice around and all mixed up was probably climbab... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: A fun route, but hysterically over bolted.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Hoffa Finger (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: the 10a/b next to it sharing the same anchors has a smashed second bolt from recnt rockfall. hoffa finger has serious dirt all over the start from the rockfall also.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Could have been a good route, if it weren't so grossly over-bolted. Good job on ruining another nice piece of stone.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Northeast Buttress (5.11a R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 23, 2005

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Comments: I was wondering how hard the .11a pitch is and how runout the R pitches are. Is the crux pitch similiar in difficulty to ancient art? That seemed like a pretty soft 11, but the bolts were right there so my wussy-ass felt better. How about the R pitches?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Golden Eagle (5.11d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 22, 2005

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Comments: Really fun route. Ridiculously over bolted. You never climb more than 1 foot above a bolt on this route, and can clip over your head with a bolt at your waist. And that's *Boulder Canyon* 11b. As in 5.10 in Eldo. The moves really are fun though.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Cosumnes River Gorge : Ten-Minute Cliff : Ten Minute Crack (5.12)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 22, 2005

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Comments: Was rated 5.10 d in the mid 70's. I guess it's gotten harder.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : Flathead Dome : PI patrol (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: To me, it seems unlikely that a line like this has not been climbed.

However, if someone were [competent] enough to get down without anchors (downclimb the route or needles rappel), I'd assume such a person would know the difference between stout 5.7 and 10d.

I'd like to hear from others who have climbed this route, their rating opinion and how they got down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : No Name Crack (5.10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek -


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 20, 2005

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Comments: I climbed this route last weekend. I had the pleasure of leading every pitch, including linking the last two. Before the final chimney, I decided to take a breather before jamming my body into the crack. As I was standing there, I peered into the back of the crack and saw a rather odd sight. Way in the back was a skull. It was pretty big, like a large mammal. I'm thinking it was a deer or something. Anyway, it scared the bejesus out of me. I kept climbing and finished the route. I guess... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Pandora's Blocks (5.10+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 19, 2005

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Comments: how about a topo? sounds fun!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Pandora's Blocks (5.10+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: The Last rap is not off the P1 anchors but an independent set to the east. A 60 meter will not reach P1 anchors from P2!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: As reference, ac's bouldering scale is off by about a number grade (V8=13a), but you will find many more climbers capable of climbing a V8 boulder problem than a 13a. I believe George's 12b grade may be a little stiff (that is most likley the result of being a solid 13 climber).


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : East Face : Snuggles to Fall Crack (5.8+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: The left facing corner that angles to the right above Snuggles is more like a 5.9+%$@!!# which denotes the expletives you'll be using on this TERRIBLE rock (even by Garden standards). There is a person sized chunk of rock with in the middle of the route ringed by a significant crack that poses a significant risk to your belayer. Not recommended...


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: What is the next route left of Self Mutilation like (same start, than left traverse)? Compared to Self Mutilation it felt a little bit harder. Does anybody know the name?


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