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Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 23
Total Points: 10,187
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Last 30 Days: 0
291 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5109 | Routes 356 | Areas 49 | Photos 401 | Page Improvments | Comments 3882 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Sickle on a Stick (WI5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 9, 2005

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Comments: Toproping a pillar like that is lame!! You beat the hell out of it, and when someone want to lead it, it's crap!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 8, 2005

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Comments: not that great a route. did it today and thought that it kinda sucked. Who knows might change my mind as time goes by.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 8, 2005

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Comments: please be careful attempting to rap to the L of Bishop's Jaggers with a single 60m rope. someone installed the first rap (didn't get the chance to check lower stations) for 70's. don't rap off the end of your line!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Bishop Jaggers (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 8, 2005

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Comments: Did Bishop's Jaggers last week. Nice shiny new bolts, the work is appreciated. There appeared to be a new rappel route bolted to the left so we attempted to rap after four pitches. The first rap (ends above the big roof to the L of the 3rd belay) came up no less than 5 feet short with a single 60m rope! I say come on now, are we installing 70m rap stations at a long-established crag? This is dangerous, someone's going to rap off the end of their lines. Be careful!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Casey's Route (5.10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 8, 2005

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Comments: new bolt(3/8" SS triplex)added to existing single bolt anchor, and fixed nuts removed.

Fun route. Stiff start, but good hands higher, and bomber finger locks on the steep part. The right crack helps with the feet (ie. stemming).


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 7, 2005

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Comments: I agree this was not needed at all. But I will say I am not looking for any bolt wars on a beautiful crag. There is no reason to ruin any climbs because the bolts are already there and they are placed well. If you don't like them or don't agree, build the anchor and don't use them.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Roll Dem Bones (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 6, 2005

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Comments: Belay bolts at the base of the last pitch and the top. New bolts at the top of Roll Dem Bones and "Hew De Deww"


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Cardiac Crack (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 6, 2005

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Comments: This crack is on Ass Hole Rock. Not Da Butts. It's really fun and guaranteed to make you sweat. Bring 2 # 4 cams to be really safe at the top or just slide one up. No bolt at top.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 6, 2005

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Comments: There are at least 8 new bomber belay stations and the old runout routes have new bolts to protect. There are also 2 new one pitch sport routes with solid anchors. This is a truly modern and safe area with great easy to moderate climbs. The approach is really easy and only takes 20 min max.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 6, 2005

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Comments: To approach just follow the road past the turn off for Ass Hole Rocks. after a small hill you will drop down and be able to see the top of the rocks to your right. Stay low and walk around to the base.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Morada (5.12a/b)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 5, 2005

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Comments: Ironic that people are saying "color me..." since morada means purple in Spanish. It also is a chapel for Los Hermanos del Penitente.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Northwest Face Route - That... (WI3-4)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 5, 2005

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Comments: Ice is in real thick, but todays snow made the iceless parts quite a wallow.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Breakfast in Bed (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 4, 2005

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Comments: Not sure what you mean by "not a good route for the beginning 5.8 leader" as the route is easily protected and only requires a little [commitment] after the cam at the lip. I would submit that this is an excellent route for the beginning 5.8 leader.


Location: SD : Meat Packing Plant : Settler's Rock (a.k.a., Veg... : "The Green Mile" on the Gre... (V10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 2, 2005

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Comments: This whole boulder was known as the "Big Boulder" in the 1980's when climbers first started topping out on the south face of it. The textured face on the southeast side has been known as the "Sculpted Face" for over 25 years. I know of a number of different up problems that were climbed in the 1980's including the "Green Monster" which was actually called "Lemon-Aid" originally.


Location: SD : Meat Packing Plant : Settler's Rock (a.k.a., Veg... : The Pocket Problem (V8 X)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 2, 2005

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Comments: The "Pocket Wall" has been known since the early 1980's as "Winter's Warmth". There are at least 6 problems across and through the roof established yester-year by several old farts. It seems pretty strange that people keep claiming first ascents on this hillside. Many talented boulderers have thoroughly climbed out this area long ago. Go to Baldy if your looking for gems to claim F.A.s on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : West Face (5.5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: I did some research online and found out that rattlers can live as high as 10000 ft. and that it was common seeing them in the fall. I guess he was headed home for the winter.If it was a bull snake he sure did a good job of sounding like one big pissed off rattlesnake!! We have kicked around several ideas even a bird dropping the thing on the route. Thanks for the input, After this experience I think anything is possible....JC


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: There is no way the first pitch is 5.8. I would rate it at a 5.7-, but it was pretty wet when I climbed it. I can see how if you climb it wrong it could be harder. It is a step from a big stance at the bottom of the flake, to good feet and nice holds. Pitch 3 is the crux and went at easy 5.7, it is really short with big holds all over and really good gear whenever you want.

I took 1 set of cams to #2 Camalot w/ doubles in green, yellow and red Aliens, and about 5 stoppers. I wish I wou... more >>


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Newlin Creek
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: Did a couple of cool trad routes here not long ago, and one wild bolted arete. Is there good bouldering in this area? Also, has anyone heard about some cool boulders out near Rocky Ford?

Thanks

Jason F.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : West Face (5.5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: Did the 5.7+ route in the picture. We climbed it 2 days ago. I was the 3rd person up and while at the belay the 2nd almost got bit by a rattlesnake!!! In late October on the West Face of the Castle two pitches up a rattlesnake. Can anyone explain this? Wildlife Alert: super pissed off rattlesnake in the dark chimney above the 7+ in this picture!!!! Beware until first hard freeze!!!No I'm not kidding.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : The Scoop (V5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: I'd say solid V3. Awesome and very aesthetic problem. Bring your body tension for those terrible sloping feet and a dash of flexibility for some of the highsteppin'!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : Wangerbanger (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: GREAT

Start 5.9 hands, "To short, would like about 20 more feet of this section", to a thin steep crux. Good protection. The difficulty of the crux will very with hand size. Don't be afraid to fire this one on lead, you can get great gear before the crux (15 or so feet) with a very clean fall.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Joyride (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: Good route. The 2nd bolt is not too bad; I am 5'6 and had no problem clipping it. If you are short, you will have to make one more move to the bolt. A lot of Bob's newer routes are similar in this way, if you are short you have to really stretch for the bolt or clip in the middle of a crux move. However, if you want a lower bolt from the rest stance, you are always welcome to create your own route.

Bob, good work, you are putting up some amazing climbs in a place that most would have ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: dive pitches my arse! we did it in two w/70m rope link first three and last two. xcellent route only need one rope. easist approach I've done in desert!!! if you liked castlton; you'll love the sista.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: A 60m reaches the ground.. a 50m definitely would not, the route is not 70ft like the guidebook says.. Pulling the rope is pretty rough on it due to the flat section at the top of the route so like the other poster said you may want to rap down the 5.11 route on the north side..I would recommend staying on belay until you get clipped into the north side shuts, they're down a bit from the top of the pinnacle..


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Disfiguration (5.10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: During an on-sight, solo, first free attempt back in the seventies, Jim Erickson fell from this route and broke both his legs! He then had to crawl down to the Royal Arch Trail for help.


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