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Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 25
Total Points: 10,187
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
302 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anonymous Coward been climbing?










Contributions


All 5104 | Routes 356 | Areas 49 | Photos 401 | Page Improvements | Comments 3877 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Movie Variation (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 24, 2005

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Comments: This thing kicks ass!!! Climbed it yesterday afternoon for the first time as a finish to Schoolroom West - also the first time I had climbed that route as I am a beginning trad leader working my way back up through the grades after climbing almost all sport thus far in my short climbing career. Rock quality is *** for sure on the first half of the pitch then goes to no *'s the last half as you bushwack to the belay tree. You can plug bomber gear just about anywhere in and around the dihedral.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 24, 2005

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Comments: Jug haul to V4 boulder problem. I found to best beta is high step left from the jug, left hand windmill to the low sloper/sidepull on the lip, right foot on good edge below jug, right hand backstep to postive part of the lip, match, left foot to jug, right foot flag, right hand gaston on rail then crimp it. Cut feet and swing right foot to low positive rail, shift your weight and fire to the good crimp. 5 moves. This route gave me a hard time the first time I was on it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 23, 2005

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Comments: I just climbed this today. Awesome route and my first 12a. I found the 5th bolt to be difficult to clip as well. I did notice there is a high foot out to the left (flat horizontal spot that's triangular) when you're moving into the crux. It's a pretty big foot but difficult to hold. Using it was the only way I was able to make that 5th clip.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Necrophilia (WI4-5 M5-6 R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 23, 2005

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Comments: A team of three climbed Broken Axes in October, maybe adding a pitch or two in the process. I know they had a somewhat exciting time on the [descent]. I think they would [recommend] rapping the route instead of walking off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 22, 2005

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Comments: Please don't bolt the line w/ the fixed nuts, please...


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 22, 2005

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Comments: I have to agree with Andy. Kevin replaced all the bolts on Childhood's End (nearly sixty) single-handedly, I believe. Seems like he's been around plenty long enough to size up what needs to be fixed. Kevin: your efforts are appreciated. AED: fark off.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Hand Me the Canteen, Boy (5.12d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 21, 2005

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Comments: Great route. .12d in Rifle, .12c in B.C.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Pitch Penny Boulder : Penny Pincher (V3)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 21, 2005

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Comments: The problem to the right of the penny pincher is an awesome few moves. V1??? I've climbed lots of V1's and it's definately more of a hard V2. It all depends on how tall you are. And yes, plan on leaving your skin behind.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 20, 2005

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Comments: I saw a guy on this today and he had to downclimb the last pitch because the anchors are gone. There are a lot of rockfall scars on the face below the climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Payment in Pump (5.13a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 20, 2005

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Comments: Does anyone know if/what broke on this climb. I've done enough 13s to know that this is either the biggest sandbag I've been on or the the more likely option that something serious broke.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Cavity : Tranquil Evening (5.10a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 17, 2005

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Comments: About as hard as "Green Spur" 5.9 in Eldo, easier than "Valdez Overhang" 5.9 across the road and the same as "Lead Fillings" 5.9 just around the corner. Neat moves but real short.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : Torture Chamber Traverse (V1)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 17, 2005

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Comments: Oh snap!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Crappucino (5.10+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 16, 2005

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Comments: hey. think this a route i put up with eric d in the late 90s. was there a scratched marker naming it?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Skippin' Stones (5.11b/c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 16, 2005

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Comments: Very cool moves and sustained climbing. This sandbag at 5.11- may go at 5.11c or hard 5.11b. However, you won't get hurt trying regardless of the grade. It's super well bolted in the crux roof. Also, there are two a more new routes around to the right that look like they were put in by the same group. What's up with these??


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Pigeon Rock : South Ridge (5.4 X)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 16, 2005

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Comments: It may be short, but it is one of the scariest climbs I have ever been on. There is pro, but I don't think any of it would hold a leader fall and contrary to the guide, there definitely are no anchors at the top. The only good way to belay from above is on the opposite summit side of the tower with some creative placements and your own body weight. Make sure your partner knows not to fall getting over there since the pendulum could easily rip both of you off the top. Not recommended.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Centerpiece (5.10-)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 15, 2005

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Comments: This climb was fun. Good holds, good feet, and plenty of rests to place gear. I was climing it last Saturday (11/13/05) and took a 25' wipper towards the top and I broke my ankel. It was in the crack and twisted as I fell. I had to bail quick so if anyone gets on this amazing climb soon, you'll find a BD #3, #2 and a blue alien I had to leave behind. I hate leaving gear, expecially when it's my friends. So if your feeling kind, write a comment here to let me know if you would b... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 14, 2005

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Comments: Some of the ratings in here are getting a little sandbagged as the holds get polished, the opening moves on the usual 5.8+ warm-up (valentine's something) are starting to feel more like solid 10a..watch out for loose rock even on some of the established routes..


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 13, 2005

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Comments: 12cs at Rifle take me 5 or less tries. This one took me about 10. It is very [temperature-dependent], but I would say the crux move is as hard as any move on Vaso. It's much harder, for instance, than "Bovine Impact" at Rifle, another Fred Knapp route...It's a super good route, though, regardless of the grade. I also moved straight to the left-hand gaston from the right hand undercling, and then slapped the sloper.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Helicopter (V5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 12, 2005

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Comments: ac, All of your comments above are accurate, the traverse in from the side was (more info on the past tense in a second) the original Helicopter and Flaming Arrow was what the sit start was called, grades about right as well. However, in the past 10ish years the names of these problems have been run together and confused. The problem is further complicated by the fact that about two years ago the starting hold broke off the original line. You will notice it is missing by looking at the pictur... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 11, 2005

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday for the first time and it was amazing. While sitting on the belay watching my partner make his way up the second dihedral I noticed a line to the left on the overhanging arete. I was wondering what the rating and name is of this pitch is, if different than Vertigo?


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 11, 2005

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Comments: The first ascentionist (Cindy Tolle) placed the rappel bolts at a latter date. Good job Cindy! End of matter!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : A Good Day to Die (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 11, 2005

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Comments: Good challenging climb for intermediate climbers. Tests variety of skills. I have climbed for about a year and I did this climb after I was fairly tired and it gave me a good challenge. I'm sure experienced climbers will have no problem with it but still have fun..


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 10, 2005

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Comments: Ben,

Anything on the West Side in yet? Romulus?

Thanks.

J


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 9, 2005

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Comments: The route is pretty loose in the middle, I parked right under the route so I could clip the first bolt, bad idea. When I was bringing up my 2nd I could hear rocks hitting my hood.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Sickle on a Stick (WI5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 9, 2005

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Comments: Toproping a pillar like that is lame! You beat the hell out of it, and when someone want to lead it, it's crap!


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