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Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 24
Total Points: 10,187
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
297 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anonymous Coward been climbing?










Contributions


All 5105 | Routes 356 | Areas 49 | Photos 401 | Page Improvements | Comments 3878 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Pandora's Blocks (5.10+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 8, 2005

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Comments: I climbed "Stifflers Mom" and then I did this route in the fall of 05. If "Stifflers" is getting three stars this should get 5!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Cornet Falls Area : Cornet Falls (WI4-5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 6, 2005

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Comments: The climb faces almost directly south and thus is poorly formed or just "not in" for much of the winter - a cold snap in December or January is often the best bet for not-so-scary conditions but even then be prepared for a hollow topout - more than one person has punctured the tube and paid for it with a very cold shower.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 4, 2005

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Comments: Twitch is a beautiful yet short line that I think is one of the best I have climbed. I projected it for a little over a month. There were many strong climbers who worked the line with me but were cut short every time in the crux sequence. This is one of the most powerful yet technical climbs I have finished. I sent Sonic after 4 tries and this took me literally 14 tries (with a minimal and somewhat unhealthy rest schedule) so this should be rated 13a/b no doubt. A lot of people [disregard] ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Summit Rock : University of Santa Clara P... (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 2, 2005

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Comments: To avoid a pendulum fall on toprope, leave the rope clipped into the last quickdraw before the anchors. Otherwise you could be faced with a nasty swing into a dihedral.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Georges Peach (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 1, 2005

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Comments: Yeah this route is not that great, but it's there and it's not that bad. I really don't get those who think it's that fucking bad for this route to be there? It's called freedom of the hills for a reason! you don't have to like it, just don't chop it. nothing dumber than people choping bolts.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Centerpiece (5.10-)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 1, 2005

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Comments: I think what Wes said is right on. I led it today and was kinda spanked on the top part (just below the bomber hand crack at the top)where it's a little wide and you have to use a face hold w/ not great feet.

I didn't find it so easy to pull on gear there at the wide spot below the top crack, and thought this was stiff for 5.10. Better to be solid @ 10's before you jump on this one.

Great climb still!!!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 1, 2005

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Comments: Anybody know if Martha is in as of 12/1?


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Squealer (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 1, 2005

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Comments: this route is bad ass! the best sport route ive climbed at 11c so far. situated next to mostly 5.12s it does not seem like it would go so easy, yet big holds and good rests make it only 5.11. stepping off the piller is wild. pumpy.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 1, 2005

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Comments: Conditions in Cody are the best since the late 90's and the climbs keep getting fatter.

Check out coldfear.com for conditions and check the hot flash page for pictures of the near 400ft Moratorium and other classic climbs that have been climbed in the past weeks but haven't formed for many years.

Aaron Mulkey


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 30, 2005

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Comments: I saw someone grate across the original Ivy Baldwin cable in the early '70s. They had to wrap a chain around it due to the large diameter. You guys who are asking about setting up a high line: the Parkies will never let it happen. That said, what kind of rope or cable would you use and how would you set it up?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: The area past St. Peter's Dome all the way to Cripple Creek is predominantly in Pike National Forest, so access issues will mainly be relegated to parking and erosion considerations. The real area tradition is to leave the routes unnamed and unrated and mostly shared between friends, although that could change if climbers in the springs ever get over Garden of the Gods and try their hand at the equally scary Pikes Peak granite. The climb Adam Hicks mentioned is above Bear Trap Ranch to the north... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Baba Cool (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: Beware as all of the bolts on this route are loose and can't be tightened. Why hasn't the Coalition fixed this one? This does not make sense to me as there are very new Fixe Open Shuts and bolts for the anchors.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : The Great Chimney (5.8 R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: Great route if you don't mind wide cracks. A must do for the trad climber!


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Air Arete (5.10 X)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: The climb was originally free soloed, then a bolt was added which has since been chopped. A bold lead (free solo really) considering there is gear only for the first few feet and the last few feet and the difficult sections are in between.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Pirouette (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: The climb can be continued up and left through a chimney feature. Then find a tree with slings to rap off.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 C1)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Two friends and I did this route on 11/25/05. It was a great route, tons of fun, very mellow aid. There were only a few times where an aid piece was anything less than bomber.

The topo from bigwall.com worked well, however we didn't need or use any cam hooks or lowe balls. Hybrid aliens, and offset HB's were great. Fixed gear was fine...there were a few more bolts and drilled pitons than seemed necessary, though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Abbienormal (aka Red Neck R... (5.13)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Today I began my training for the FFA of Abbienormal. I woke up at 3 am and ran 26.3 miles in the buff.At 6 am I had a teaspoon of flax seed oil for breakfast.6:01 I began my campusing session by beginning with a 4 minute hang on the bottom then up to the 7th which I did 300 pull ups on then campused back to the bottom to hang again for another 4 minutes and repeated 20 times.By 10 I meditated for 3 hours.Now I had another teaspoon of flax seed oil for lunch and am preparing to run backwards fo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 27, 2005

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Comments: So climbing up on Wind Ridge I see this huge ass cable and I'm thinkin "what the hell is that for" so I look it up. some old dude used to tight rope between there and the Bastille. I'm not aware if the cables are still there on the Bastille but if they are why not highline it?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 27, 2005

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Comments: My friend and I encountered an anchor not listed in the Falcon guide to Boulder Canyon at the top of (what the Falcon guide calls) Blacklight. Currently there are no rap rings, just the two hangers, any objections to adding chains so one may rap without [leaving] gear (as we did)?


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Dolofright (5.11d R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 26, 2005

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Comments: i talked to tom on the days he was bolting thisthing. he was out of his mind with fear and its attraction. he would comment on the fact that some of the holds were expanding and took a strange glee knowing it was going to bite some one in the ass. he had a concern about a possible fall on one of the pitches. a tyrolean was set up from light house to the top of dolomite tower on the day of its fa.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Hollowpoint (5.11d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 26, 2005

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Comments: this is a jay smith route. we did it in the late 90s the same week iwas privledgedenoughto have gone with him and a guy named paul...tearre or something, up burning within about sixdays earlier.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Mistaken Identity (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 26, 2005

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Comments: No that great for gear on the last "crack" part. More like a shallow seam. Just go for it! OR head left and finnish up on the 5.7.

I like this area a lot


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 25, 2005

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Comments: The Crag is north facing, which makes for a cold climb in the winter. Stick your shoes in your armpits for these climbs. I really like this area.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Coldfusion (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 25, 2005

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Comments: Yes, J Brown...obviously they're confused about a 5.12a and a 5.8. It's a big rock, maybe you should go check it out again.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Tsunami (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 24, 2005

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Comments: This route is a veritable wanderfest at best.


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