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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : TAD (5.7)
By: Angela Arp When: Apr 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll agree with John G that the First Pitch and the hanging belay on TAD SUCKS!!
but the 2nd pitch is a lot more fun!
not saying I'd do it again though!!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 31, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: So . . . some wear on your rope is WORSE than putting bolts in the rock?
Ropes are replaceable, Rock is Not !
& I guess I don't understand this comment? "As far as the chains go, a simul rap would not have been a problem, but we appreciated seeing the chains at the top this time. There are plenty of opportunities for the simul rap on other climbs, i.e. The Riddle no longer has chains. "
Chains or Bolts?
The issue for me is that things seem to be 'dumming down' in the hills.Adding anchors ... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: Angela Arp When: Oct 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still don't know how you get the ropes stuck on a simul rap on this climb. There is a HUGE knob at the top, and you can both go off the same side - and there isn't anything I can think of for the rope to hang up on while pulling? There is a little ledge, but nothing more.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four : Sprire Four (5.4)
By: Angela Arp When: Oct 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul . . Sorry for the late reply
- *don't read any further if you don't want to know my secret to the WORM HOLE.**
you can't push straight up, you need to angle your body away from rock wall on the climbers right. When I get to the top, I turned my body 45 degrees to the climbers left(after I thought I had my hips stuck - and I am close to your size & it is all hips!), then leaned forward and sorta "beach whaled" it up and out. . .
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edward's Crack (5.7)
By: Angela Arp When: Jun 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe the 7- rating comes from those people who actually try and offwidth/crack climb the first pitch . . . . Suckers! :-_
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets
By: Angela Arp When: Dec 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boy it is nice to discuss this like adults and not have it end up like the Spearfish debate! THANKS!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets
By: Angela Arp When: Oct 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still find the anchors unnecessary, as it takes away from some of the adventure of the climb. I hope that all simul-raps in the hills do not become bolted anchors. Learning to simul-rap is part of climbing in the hills - just my opinion!
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas
By: Angela Arp When: Sep 17, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob - Please don't let the actions of (a few) others alter the good work you are doing to keep all climbers safe. Most of us appreciate running into a brand new bolt (where a 1/4" one once 'stood')!
If you would like assistance in your rebolting project (and I really hope you decide to continue) please contact the American Safe Climbing association.See if they can assist you with funding, etc.
Angela ~~
"Satisfaction lies in the effort, not in the attainment. Full effort is full victory." ... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: Angela Arp When: Sep 11, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I cannot believe that someone put a bolted anchor on this climb!?!?!?!?There is NO reason to have an anchor up there.It is a SAFE needles style rappel and a good place for climbers to learn that skill. . . this is so disappointing.:-(Does anyone know why this was done?
I am so afraid that this will start happening all over, and the hills will lose some of it's uniqueness.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Screw (5.7)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has some of everything. If you want to climb this it will take all you have!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Kim (5.6)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonderful first Vedauwoo trad lead. . . If you have small to mediium size hands it is the perfect size! Gets fingery at the top, but the crack seems just deep enough!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : Sore-O-Pod aka Spatial Juxt... (5.8)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! - watch the hand (up to your elbow) jam at the top - it will scar you for life - unless you tape up your entire arm!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : Sore-O-Pod aka Spatial Juxt... (5.8)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route - watch the hand (up to your elbow) jam at the top - it will scare you for life - unless you tape up your entire arm!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Stinkzig (5.6)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: GREAT! Fun Offwidth, but much harder than a non-offwidth 7 if your not and experienced offwidth climber - Intimidating
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Stinkzig (5.6)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: only reason to climb this route is for the scary start and going off the Parabolic Slab! (but there are other - more fun ways to get there - Mother#1)
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four : Sprire Four (5.4)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry for the confusion Bob. Fraggle Rock was a Muppet show by Jim Henson on cable back in the early 80's. Since you have been climbing longer than I have been alive, you were probably climbing while I was watching Fraggle Rock. I am jealous - climbing would have been better - anyway . . . My friends and I called gully 3/4 Fraggle Rock, because it is so beautifully green and surreal that we kept expecting wild red-haired Muppet to jump out from behind a rock and start singing some crazy song.
... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Picture Window : Gossamer (5.7)
By: Angela Arp When: Aug 12, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments:
Wonderful starter Black Hills route. Great start, gets you thinking before you even leave the ground. Kinda neat getting lowered off and looking thru the picture window.
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