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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Camel Toe (5.9+)
By: Andy Novak When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm trying not to sound like a jerk here, but the 4 bolts up the "low angled slab" are totally ridiculous. Rossiter calls this slab 3rd class. Not sure of that is true, but 4 bolts 12 feet apart up a 5.0 slab seems completely inappropriate considering the route's 5.9 rating. We were shocked and saddened to see those bolts on such an easy slab in such a beautiful place. So very LAME.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Hagakure (5.12a) : Photo
By: Andy Novak When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture is badass Q! I must give Bronson some serious props for this one.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7)
By: Andy Novak When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 features lots of classic Lumpy slab footwork. Easy, but you better have seasoned calves to deal with the pump. And I think the pro up top when leaving the corner is..tricky. Have your .7+ head on. Great route and a great intro to the world of Lumpy Ridge.
5.7c.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : Sleep-In Block (5.10c/d)
By: Andy Novak When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Toe right, low hand, throw right hand high for solid jug"
I'm sorry, but is this page for real???
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Andy Novak When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just an FYI: The November, 1962 National Geographic (VOL 122, NO. 5) has the A-mazing story of the first ascent of this route, written by none other than Hunt Ingalls himself. Great photos of Kor drilling and cleaning a bolt hole, 1960's gear, and the austere Fisher landscape. One caption reads, "Bricklayer Kor spends holidays scaling rocks in record time". Just great stuff.
Title is "We Climbed Utah's Skyscraper Rock"
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : North Buttress (5.7)
By: Andy Novak When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Eli's description is right on. Although I do think Spearhead's north ridge is waayyyy more dramatic. Four pitches to the headwall? Bollocks. Did the lower buttress in three long stretchers. Start high. And although the ridge above is airy, no rope needed. Be prepared for a rather nasty (but very scenic) descent down the gully.
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