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Member Since: Aug 1, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Andy Weinmann


Point Rank: # 904
Total Points: 653
Last Year: 235
Last 30 Days: 3
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All (659) | Routes (36) | Areas (8) | Photos (19) | Comments (78) | Posts | Stars (278) | Ratings (240)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Environmental Impact (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: You can do the whole thing in one pitch if you're sure your second won't blow the easy traverse up into the upper v-slot/roof. Set a long runner on the first anchors and traverse right to underneath the slot roof. Sink a #3 cam in a horizontal (not in the roof!) and then maneuver yourself up into the slot. Some chimney moves get you fully up in there. There's a bomber nut placement up there on the right and then you can move up and get a marginal jam so you can clip the anchors. The t... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pistol Ridge : The X Files (5.6)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: This kinda has two cruxes. Getting off the ground is an interesting boulder problem that will protect with a small cam. The high crux is pulling the small roof to work up into the relatively easy off-width. Take a #4 and 5.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Moonshiner's Wall : Oberon (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Ok, here's a real description for getting to this climb. From the approach trail that takes you to the base area of Moonshiners Wall, walk to the left around the crag. Continue following the path around as best as possible. Eventually you'll come to a VERY large hemlock (yes, technically a pine tree)…like 4' in diameter. Oberon is the obvious corner you'll see here. It's about a 5-10 min walk from when you initially get to the crag.

Be careful with the start…take a #4 or #5 if... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I really don't like to trust pins from only a little bit of outward appearances. You have no clue how deep it's set or the condition beyond what you can see. I equalized the pin here with a #3 Stopper just below it. Sounds like a brassie would've worked too. After this pro there's nothing till the roof...which is a decent little ways up there. A fun route that is challenging both physically and from a rigging standpoint for the second. Doubles would def help. If you're unsure of you... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Chris regarding Lakatakissima. Great, pumpy and sustained 5.8 pitch. P1 was a nice wake-up in the AM. The P2 crux is just a reach. I'm 5'6" and ended up just needing to get my body position right so I could reach and walk my fingers up with my left hand. P3 was just pure fun. All around great route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Fun, steep face climb that wanders a bit and with PG/PG13 Pro (not R, but not G either) but excellent moves. Only real difficult pro spot was maybe 20+ ft up, above gear and at a small pin scar...I got a #00 C3 (it was decent). Perhaps I could've gotten a Peenut to go; unfortunately I left them on the ground...doh!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: I wonder how long the pin at the crux has been gone. There definitely isn't much protection up through there but the moves flow nicely...just keep climbing till you find another placement. :-)


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Skyline Traverse (5.3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: The climb actually starts on the SE Corner but does traverse over onto the South End. To find the start, take the SE Corner Trail (first left off the road past the culvert) up the hill (pass the South End turn early on) and follow it around to the left. As you near the rock face the trail switches-back right and goes up and around back left up some new steps. Follow the trail towards the wall and start near the dead tree (that will likely fall soon). Most parties boulder up to the large Skyl... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I have to disagree with the other commenters on this climb on a couple points. First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh.

P1: Start directly up from the two-bolt anchor shared with West Pole. Move up the corner/arete, passing some good stances and decent gear placements. Move back right onto the face, passing an obvious loose block (X marked on it) to some right-leaning, shallow cracks (offset cams!). Move up and gain bett... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Great Chimney (5.1)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I don't know if the person who submitted this actually climbed this or not but it's not 5.1...not by a long shot. This is adventure climbing at it's finest. Here's a real description:

P1: Climb a short, blocky wall in the large chimney/gulley. Move up through some turfy ledges with just enough rock sticking out, placing gear wherever you can get it, mostly on the side walls. Continue up to a tree with some slings on it. OPTIONAL BELAY.

Continuing up, move up a dirt slope passing two more go... more >>


Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Central District : Little Stoney Man Mountain
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: The old PATC-MS website has been moved. The guide is now available here: www.potomacmountainclub.org/little_stony_man


Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Central District : Little Stoney Man Mountain : Bent Tree Area : ... : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Head First is now called Kopley's Corner.


Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Central District : Little Stoney Man Mountain : Bent Tree Area : The Shield Direct (5.9+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Quality route, one of the best here. Surprisingly, the roof is spot on at Seneca 9+, hard but do-able. Fun moves up the corner then a hard sequence and above your gear at the roof. Just keep moving and don't get pumped out!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Orkney Islands.. and the Ol... : Old Man of Hoy (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Can be done with a single 60m rope (using alpine draws properly) and then rapped with a 60m and tagline. First rap: summit to the lower of the two anchors on the big corner (you'll have to step back out on the big ledge to pull the rope but it's a huge ledge you're on). Second rap: down to top of Pitch 2. Third rap: sweet free-hanging rap to ground.

Recommend taking at least two #3 Camalots and one #4...two #4s would not go unused!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Ben Nevis : ... : Centurion (5.10a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: At the end of Pitch 5, be sure to move left onto a flat, grassy spot on the Route II Direct line, below the overhangs. Makes it much easier to belay for Pitch 6.

Also, this line takes a day or two to dry out after rain as we found out...P2 corner was very wet.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) (5.5) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: From looking at Tony's descriptions in the old and new books I think the line highlighted here is the Lotus Variation to La Bella Vista. It certainly feels a bit tougher than 5.5.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) (5.5) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Looking down Skyline Traverse...not Lower Skyline Direct.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) (5.5) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: That's Skyline Traverse...not Lower Skyline Direct.


Location: VA : Indian Graves Ridge
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: IGR actually faces East and catches sun most of the day. Great fall/winter crag. The two areas should be South and North, with nearly all the routes on the North side. There are two on the South side that I know of.


Location: VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: This crag has definitely gotten more popular over the last few years. It is now used by a lot of people, including local groups for teaching purposes. Near the upper area (up the trail on the right) there is a 2-bolt ring anchor set up, which I assume was put there for teaching purposes for those new to outdoor sport climbing.

In April 2013, the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC), PATC-Mountaineering Section (PATC-MS) and Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) hosted the first (of hopefully many) ado... more >>


Location: VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : Foops (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Gear at the roof, gear between the bolts. Great line.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Tomato (5.8) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Damn! Dragging a #6 boat-anchor up Tomato? Wow. :-)


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Streptococcus (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Saves its crux for one good punch at the end. Pumpy, but reasonable for Seneca 5.9.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Finger Stinger (5.8 R)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: The pine tree at the top is gone. Climb the corner to the roof, get gear, move out left then up and hit the rappel tree on Roux. Fantastic moves, but the gear is sparse after the initial corner (where you can get good gear). After the roof comes the real runout. That would be a big fall and swing.

Not for the 5.8 Seneca leader. Tony's guide has it at R/X and for good reason.


Location: MD : Carderock : Zig Zag (5.12a/b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Zig Zag follows the incipient crack system to the right of fingernail. The two large edges further to the right are off route. Once you're up to the ramp you can finish the top section any way you like; the 5.12 climbing is in the lower section.


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