Comments: I remember this problem before breakage, back when it was "easy". For some reason, I thought it was supposed to be Veasy. Bad day for my ego. Current manifestation of the problem is quite good. Beginning sequence=burl.
Comments: Anyone who knows me understands how long-term a project this was for me. For some reason, Renaissance Man weaseled its way under my skin, and the crux problem languished in my subconscious, seemingly never to leave or resolve itself. How hard is it really? Well, I'm not sure, but considering how many people have tried it, how long it stymied me, and the angle of the cliff, I think the route can claim a pretty stout grade. 5.13b/c is only a suggestion, folks.
Comments: Yes, Thom exited straight out the lip. The "right" exit, which is known as the Arrakis Project, climbs about thirty feet of diagonally traversing rock, with a not-so-great landing. We think it's probably about the same grade as Enter Sandman.
Comments: According to Bernd, something has broken on this relatively recently. He wasn't sure if it still goes; if it does, then the sequence appeared to be drastically altered. Take care, potential suitors!
Comments: The "direct" line of travel which everyone seems to be talking about doesn't have a name that I know of. We always thought it should have been bolted as a completely separate line, especially down low, since the moves are distinct and autonomous from the arete. Great, sustained, and technical climbing at 5.12b. William, I think 5.12+ might be a little generous for the upper headwall. The mini-roof you're talking about (the one before the anchors) is actually the 5.11 finish to Goulara. Pumpy? Ye... more >>
Comments: Wait to go, guys! The first encounter I had with this problem was back in 2010, with my friend Jake Novotny. After scrubbing the holds one afternoon, we started the problem down and left of the bump-rails, with our left hand on that sharp pocket thingy. From there, we climbed straight up in to the "bump" moves. Beginning on Dancing Outlaw looks better. At the time, we thought the top was pretty hard. We suggested a potential grade of V9 (we never did it) back then, and it looks like we may have ... more >>
There were certainly some yells of success/elation. I was so relieved! I felt iffy on the LAST crimp moves of the Self Reflection headwall, and was thinking to myself "man, if I slipped right now, it's sure going to suck to have to do all that again..."