Comments: I think Matt means that the belaying ledge falls away BEHIND the belayer (depends on where you're belaying from). If you're not careful when lowering your partner to the ground, there could be a tumble. When climbing the route, there's no serious swing for the climber that I can remember. It's all in the vertical-to-off-vertical angle.
Comments: Wish things were longer? Once you hit the anchors of Crash Landing, clip in a looong sling, traverse about fifteen feet right, join Perched (5.10d) at the roof, and finish at the chains of Perched. A big pitch, to be sure. It's likely a 60m would work, but we used a 70. Better safe than sorry.
Comments: The bottom half of the route won't change your life, but the headwall is just good-ol'-fashioned fun rock-climbing. Go ahead, gun for the jugs (there's lots of them) and take perfectly clean whippers when your forearms explode.
Comments: If this route wasn't sandbagged already, a pretty useful hold broke at the beginning, making things a bit more grim. Still 12a, but you gotta earn every inch. Try this route at the end of your Tor session for full value.
Comments: I started working on this route last Saturday at the behest of Phil. I haven't tried every route at the Tor, but I can't imagine things get much better than this rig. I've rarely had so much fun climbing (and falling) on a route.
A note to those working the line: your right hand gets WORKED. There's really no "rest" for your right hand till you get near the top, and by that time things look pretty grim. Climb fast.
Comments: This problem is so rad. Extremely low-percentage (for me), and consists of two hard hand-movements. If that's not the definition of a good problem, I don't know what is. I call this problem V7/8 for sure.
Comments: Yeah, the bouldering problems all need to be moved. In all honesty, I didn't have time to move them at the time of their arrival. That, and it seemed a little funny to make a SY bouldering area page. But what the heck, if a chap is psyched, then good on him.
Comments: Good call, Richard. I'm not really sure how Caveman ended up in the bouldering pages. Thanks for clearing things up. Anyways, here's the skinny:
For the Caveman boulder, approach via main trail, and when you gain the bouldering area (15-20 minute hike) keep heading downhill and to the left. You will see a very large south-facing boulder/prow fronted by some pine trees. All the routes are on the ocean side of things.
Comments: The "deep" two-finger pocket can be used on Young WIlliam—this, according to Kevin Brown, who ought to have known. The cruxy moves on YW are down low, and there is a scary hand-foot match past the two-finger pocket that is also memorable. If you traverse too far left at the two-finger, it becomes Vanishing Flakes. Moral of the story? Young WIlliam is a little bit of a squeeze job, in my opinion. Still hard, however. And committing.
Comments: While Russ has a point in general about this generation's propensity towards grade-inflation, I think 5.11 is a bit sandbagged. V6? V4? You decide. I will say that when it's 97 degrees in the valley, it feels pretty friggin hard. Careful on the top.
Comments: The first time I really went for it on this problem, I hadn't cleaned the top hold and slipped, mid-crux, my body completely askew. I plummeted, pinged off the boulder, and smacked near the road, on my back.
But my spotters rocked, and so did the two pads we brought. They kept me from hitting pavement, and shielded sundry vital appendages from grazing the "death" boulder. I sent minutes later, motivated by the knowledge that I could indeed fall—and be safe.
Comments: Sorry to add another silly video, but this is how bored we got with local rock this summer:
Hey, at least it's good training. I shouldn't dignify it with a name or grade, but it probably goes at V9/10, merely because of the pump factor. For ease of reference, I call it "So I Did It Again". Not creative, I know.
If you work a lot and can't travel to other climbing areas, this is what happens.