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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,213
Last Year: 519
Last 30 Days: 27
76 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All (928) | Routes (88) | Areas (16) | Photos (133) | Comments (428) | Posts (3) | Stars (202) | Ratings (58)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: I think Matt means that the belaying ledge falls away BEHIND the belayer (depends on where you're belaying from). If you're not careful when lowering your partner to the ground, there could be a tumble. When climbing the route, there's no serious swing for the climber that I can remember. It's all in the vertical-to-off-vertical angle.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : To a Grave (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: Tim is right. The sit makes things much, much better.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Carmel River State Beach (a... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Agreed. But hey, it's a nature pic. Nature's nice, I guess. But so is climbing.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crash Landing (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Wish things were longer? Once you hit the anchors of Crash Landing, clip in a looong sling, traverse about fifteen feet right, join Perched (5.10d) at the roof, and finish at the chains of Perched. A big pitch, to be sure. It's likely a 60m would work, but we used a 70. Better safe than sorry.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Aurora (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: The bottom half of the route won't change your life, but the headwall is just good-ol'-fashioned fun rock-climbing. Go ahead, gun for the jugs (there's lots of them) and take perfectly clean whippers when your forearms explode.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Best 11d in the Gorge.

With continuously fun movement, aesthetic position, and long character, this climb typifies all that is fun and scenic about the Owens River Gorge. Do it!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Clawing at the Walls (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Pretty sure my sends of this problem don't count, since I wasn't wearing anything near as cool as Steve's threads.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : She Didn't Want Me To Do It (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic. I was worried the story was going to be decidedly unrepeatable. Glad there's a happy ending.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : She Didn't Want Me To Do It (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Who is the "she" in title of the problem? I'm sure that's privileged information, but I can't help but be curious.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Sword In The Stone (5.10a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 17, 2012

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Comments: Agreed: one of the finest of its grade in SB.

There is a slightly loose section near the last bolt, but you can avoid the manky holds quite easily. If you're breaking in to the 5.9+/5.10a leading game, this is a great route to try.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Anchor Punch (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: If this route wasn't sandbagged already, a pretty useful hold broke at the beginning, making things a bit more grim. Still 12a, but you gotta earn every inch. Try this route at the end of your Tor session for full value.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Better Than Life (5.13c)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: I started working on this route last Saturday at the behest of Phil. I haven't tried every route at the Tor, but I can't imagine things get much better than this rig. I've rarely had so much fun climbing (and falling) on a route.

A note to those working the line: your right hand gets WORKED. There's really no "rest" for your right hand till you get near the top, and by that time things look pretty grim. Climb fast.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Westmont College Boulder : Honk If You love Jesus (V5+)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: This problem is so rad. Extremely low-percentage (for me), and consists of two hard hand-movements. If that's not the definition of a good problem, I don't know what is. I call this problem V7/8 for sure.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, the bouldering problems all need to be moved. In all honesty, I didn't have time to move them at the time of their arrival. That, and it seemed a little funny to make a SY bouldering area page. But what the heck, if a chap is psyched, then good on him.

I'll get it done nonetheless.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: First things first, Tom:

Get O11.

Way to be psyched.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Yeti (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Both are acceptable, in my opinion. I know climbers who are terrified to go left, but comfortable with the straight up version, and vice versa. Nice work!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Cold Springs Dome : Post Modern Retro Classic (5.10b)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: The angled blocks at the start of this line sound purdy hollow... Other than that, the top moves are fantastic. Excellently positioned route with great exposure.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 13, 2012

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Comments: Yes. I know the feeling.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : Caveman
By: andy patterson When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: We migrated the Caveman stuff to here:

mountainproject.com/v/potters-point/107791416


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point
By: andy patterson When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Good call, Richard. I'm not really sure how Caveman ended up in the bouldering pages. Thanks for clearing things up. Anyways, here's the skinny:

For the Caveman boulder, approach via main trail, and when you gain the bouldering area (15-20 minute hike) keep heading downhill and to the left. You will see a very large south-facing boulder/prow fronted by some pine trees. All the routes are on the ocean side of things.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Young William (5.12a R)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: The "deep" two-finger pocket can be used on Young WIlliam—this, according to Kevin Brown, who ought to have known. The cruxy moves on YW are down low, and there is a scary hand-foot match past the two-finger pocket that is also memorable. If you traverse too far left at the two-finger, it becomes Vanishing Flakes. Moral of the story? Young WIlliam is a little bit of a squeeze job, in my opinion. Still hard, however. And committing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : High Hat (V5-)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Completely rad. Thanks for the historical snippet, Steve.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Shiver Me Timbers (V6 R)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: While Russ has a point in general about this generation's propensity towards grade-inflation, I think 5.11 is a bit sandbagged. V6? V4? You decide. I will say that when it's 97 degrees in the valley, it feels pretty friggin hard. Careful on the top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Undertaker (V6 R)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: The first time I really went for it on this problem, I hadn't cleaned the top hold and slipped, mid-crux, my body completely askew. I plummeted, pinged off the boulder, and smacked near the road, on my back.

But my spotters rocked, and so did the two pads we brought. They kept me from hitting pavement, and shielded sundry vital appendages from grazing the "death" boulder. I sent minutes later, motivated by the knowledge that I could indeed fall—and be safe.

Everyone should have some badass, f... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : So I Did It (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Sorry to add another silly video, but this is how bored we got with local rock this summer:



Hey, at least it's good training. I shouldn't dignify it with a name or grade, but it probably goes at V9/10, merely because of the pump factor. For ease of reference, I call it "So I Did It Again". Not creative, I know.

If you work a lot and can't travel to other climbing areas, this is what happens.


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