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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 221
Total Points: 2,365
Last Year: 611
Last 30 Days: 11
82 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1011 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvments | Comments 470 | Posts 3 | Stars 221 | Ratings 66
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : The Trojan Arete (V8+)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, DG has this one. He still cranks, by the way.

There's a Youtube video of Bernd climbing this rig, and I think it's the only video-record of someone sending—hence the misconstrued info.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") (5.10b)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: Richard, you're spot-on.

Slab + sun = grim

Great route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: The beard beautifies him, doesn't it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: It is a long route. Fun and sustained climbing up to the fifth or sixth bolt, then a rest, then a powerful crux. Guess who the White Cougar is...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Don't cheat yourself by climbing out left by the last bolt. It's more fun and sustained to climb direct!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Okay, so I kind of take back what I said: the last clip isn't actually SCARY. It's slightly awkward, but even if you blow it with gobs of slack out, your fall will be pleasant, albeit big.

This route evinces the concept of "redpoint-heartbreak".

So fun.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Renaissance Man (5.13b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: Anyone who knows me understands how long-term a project this was for me. For some reason, Renaissance Man weaseled its way under my skin, and the crux problem languished in my subconscious, seemingly never to leave or resolve itself. How hard is it really? Well, I'm not sure, but considering how many people have tried it, how long it stymied me, and the angle of the cliff, I think the route can claim a pretty stout grade. 5.13b/c is only a suggestion, folks.

Whatever the rating, I'm super prou... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Enter Sandman (V10-11)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: Yes, Thom exited straight out the lip. The "right" exit, which is known as the Arrakis Project, climbs about thirty feet of diagonally traversing rock, with a not-so-great landing. We think it's probably about the same grade as Enter Sandman.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Egret Arete (V10 R)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: According to Bernd, something has broken on this relatively recently. He wasn't sure if it still goes; if it does, then the sequence appeared to be drastically altered. Take care, potential suitors!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Enter Sandman (V10-11)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: This photo shows the start, but the top-out is obviously obscured. I'll try to nab a photo next time I'm up at the Mouth. Trust me: the problem looks better "in person".


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: The "direct" line of travel which everyone seems to be talking about doesn't have a name that I know of. We always thought it should have been bolted as a completely separate line, especially down low, since the moves are distinct and autonomous from the arete. Great, sustained, and technical climbing at 5.12b. William, I think 5.12+ might be a little generous for the upper headwall. The mini-roof you're talking about (the one before the anchors) is actually the 5.11 finish to Goulara. Pumpy? Ye... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Static Head (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: "Baby Eliminator" sounds kinda creepy.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Enter Sandman (V10-11)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: Thomas made it clear to me that he merely suggests V10-11. He encourages others to try the problem and comment on their perspective.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Bandito (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: Wait to go, guys! The first encounter I had with this problem was back in 2010, with my friend Jake Novotny. After scrubbing the holds one afternoon, we started the problem down and left of the bump-rails, with our left hand on that sharp pocket thingy. From there, we climbed straight up in to the "bump" moves. Beginning on Dancing Outlaw looks better. At the time, we thought the top was pretty hard. We suggested a potential grade of V9 (we never did it) back then, and it looks like we may have ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Heavy Traffic (V3)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, those little "contrivances" have been done since the 80's. I remember Joel (long-haired variety) showing me his circuit on that face ten years ago.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. D... (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 20, 2013

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Comments: Just found a silly iPhone video of me climbing ZA. The inimitable Ian Walters filming.




Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : The Shard (5.12c R)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, guys.

There were certainly some yells of success/elation. I was so relieved! I felt iffy on the LAST crimp moves of the Self Reflection headwall, and was thinking to myself "man, if I slipped right now, it's sure going to suck to have to do all that again..."


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Happy to be Here (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Unless I'm mistaken, isn't this the ONLY route of its grade at the Tor? I'm not up-to-date on the new routes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Should I Go (aka El Potrero... (5.10b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: "Should I Stay" has five bolts, and a great crux down low. Looks harder than it feels.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Color Blind (aka Rubber Man... (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: The crux down low features some bad feet and a fantastic "mini" roof which you can undercling or gaston. After that, there's a nice romp up a right-trending edge-system. At the top of the edge-system, you will find a flat ledge, about eight inches wide. You might cop a rest here, but keep in mind that the edge isn't long for this world. I could easily flex it about 1/16-1/8 out from the wall with mild hand pressure. Take care! Other than that, this route sports excellent rock.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Cleaning Lady (5.10-)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: I enjoyed this even more than Rubber Man. Surprisingly sustained climbing up high! Also a little bit longer than Rubber Man.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello"
By: andy patterson When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: Fresno Dome has exceptionally hard rock. In fact, it vaunts some of the best "chickenhead" climbing anywhere, with bullet-hard patina slabs to boot. I was shocked by how amazing the routes were—and the curious (but not lamented) lack of crowds! This place is a GEM. With great camping, a relatively short drive to town, and gobs of routes at all grades (including lots of potential), Fresno Dome is a fantastic alternative/addition to Yosemite Valley.

I love this place and can't wait to go back!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : Willow Creek Wall : Unnamed (5.11c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: I remember being very, very excited to do the crux—only to discover that runout slabs awaited me. Stay with it! Holds and feet appear on a need-to-know basis.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: Well, I'm glad we're finally talking about this.

Bob, thanks for clearing up the Mutants Amok issue. I thought the glue was keeping the hold on the wall, and I did interpret that as "reinforcement" on some level. And, to add my voice to the consensus: I agree with Bob that glue simply doesn't last in SB, or on any of the choss in proximity to SB (again, read: Echo Cliffs, where you undergo paroxysms of terror whilst grabbing every single glued hold). So based on that issue alone, I think gluin... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Mutanks Amok has tons of epoxy. Based on that precedent (i.e. if the problem is super good) I say use epoxy. Talk to me (or Phil) if you want to do it right.


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