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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,380
Last Year: 591
Last 30 Days: 7
85 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1030 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements | Comments 485 | Posts 3 | Stars 224 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : The Black Death (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 1, 2013

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Comments: Bernd Zeugswetter nabbed the second ascent on a hot June 1st Saturday. Proud effort!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: I'm proud to say that I was present for Phil's send of this route. Completely and utterly rad. I've never seen a route like it. A little history of that day:

I had just sent Chips for the first time. RIght after that, my buddy Dean sent Chips for the first time. Right after that, Phil sent The New Hell. Three redpoints in the space of one or two hours. Needless to say, the Tor will have its revenge over the next month.

Oh, and beta spoiler on The New Hell: get reeeaaal strong on two-fingers.
... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : The Tempest (V6)
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: Best line here. The holds at the start are big sandy jugs, but the holds at the top are perfect wedges that you can pinch, side-pull, or lie-back. I love how the line gets progressively harder the higher you get. I started low and right (didn't consult the video... but it doesn't affect the grade I think), and it seemed V6, albeit on the steep-and-powerful side of V6. Fantastic finish.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : Smokeys Cave
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: Great cave. There's a handful of some hard projects for those with crank, vision, and a brush.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Incandescence (V4)
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: I went here for the first time, and while the cave looks awesome, this particular line seemed to be VERY much in flux. All the lower crimps were super sandy and on the verge of breaking. I didn't even try it for fear of falling on my back. I'm sure it will be more established someday...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Chips Ahoy (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: May 18, 2013

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Comments: A fantastic Tor redpoint. Even if you don't "technically" climb the grade, give it a whirl anyway; this route begs be tried. Climb fast and efficient to the rest jugs, then do your best to keep it together till the clip (Dean, you know what I'm talking about).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: andy patterson When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: Great idea. I'll start mulling over my notes...

Okay, here's what I always did (back when I climbed there a lot): warm up on Yeti (3X), run up the hill and do Watch the Dog (3X), then Soot Patrol to the lip (3X), then finish by doing Akiba's Prison as many times as you can. If you fall off the latter problem before the end, get back on immediately and climb as far as you can.

This takes about 45 minutes to an hour if you keep moving. Think of it as a way to get tired quickly after work, if ti... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Purgatory (V9)
By: andy patterson When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Bernd (first ascentionist) calls it V9. I think it's the same grade as Zombie, but a bit more powerful.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Natural (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Think of this route as the "harder" version of Auto Magic.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : When The Sea Doesn't Want Y... (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Consensus has this as the best 12a at the Tor.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Strictly Ballroom (5.14a)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: First 5.14 I've ever bolt-to-bolted (barely). How do people onsite these things?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Beware rattlers during the Spring months! Check carefully amongst the boulders before you settle in to a belay stance. This last week was kind of gnarly.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dreams (V8-9)
By: andy patterson When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: I remember this problem before breakage, back when it was "easy". For some reason, I thought it was supposed to be Veasy. Bad day for my ego. Current manifestation of the problem is quite good. Beginning sequence=burl.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: I didn't realize this line had seen an ascent in 1874.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Actually, I remember this: I was trying Zombie Armageddon. Good times, good times.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : The Trojan Arete (V8+)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, DG has this one. He still cranks, by the way.

There's a Youtube video of Bernd climbing this rig, and I think it's the only video-record of someone sending—hence the misconstrued info.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") (5.10b)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: Richard, you're spot-on.

Slab + sun = grim

Great route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: The beard beautifies him, doesn't it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: It is a long route. Fun and sustained climbing up to the fifth or sixth bolt, then a rest, then a powerful crux. Guess who the White Cougar is...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Don't cheat yourself by climbing out left by the last bolt. It's more fun and sustained to climb direct!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Okay, so I kind of take back what I said: the last clip isn't actually SCARY. It's slightly awkward, but even if you blow it with gobs of slack out, your fall will be pleasant, albeit big.

This route evinces the concept of "redpoint-heartbreak".

So fun.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Renaissance Man (5.13b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: Anyone who knows me understands how long-term a project this was for me. For some reason, Renaissance Man weaseled its way under my skin, and the crux problem languished in my subconscious, seemingly never to leave or resolve itself. How hard is it really? Well, I'm not sure, but considering how many people have tried it, how long it stymied me, and the angle of the cliff, I think the route can claim a pretty stout grade. 5.13b/c is only a suggestion, folks.

Whatever the rating, I'm super prou... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Enter Sandman (V10-11)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: Yes, Thom exited straight out the lip. The "right" exit, which is known as the Arrakis Project, climbs about thirty feet of diagonally traversing rock, with a not-so-great landing. We think it's probably about the same grade as Enter Sandman.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Egret Arete (V10 R)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: According to Bernd, something has broken on this relatively recently. He wasn't sure if it still goes; if it does, then the sequence appeared to be drastically altered. Take care, potential suitors!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Enter Sandman (V10-11)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: This photo shows the start, but the top-out is obviously obscured. I'll try to nab a photo next time I'm up at the Mouth. Trust me: the problem looks better "in person".


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