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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 218
Total Points: 2,445
Last Year: 370
Last 30 Days: 1
91 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1043 | Routes 96 | Areas 19 | Photos 142 | Page Improvements | Comments 489 | Posts 3 | Stars 227 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Variation of the Midface (5.6)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Nice psyche, Pablo. Keep it up! I'm looking forward to seeing you hike all the 12s around the corner...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The thought occurred to me: has anyone completely campused a route at the Tor?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Arboretum - Sit (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Traffic seems to have improved this problem. I was shown the moves today, and got it after letting things go in to the shade. Do yourself a favor and don't climb it in the sun. Potters rock is gnar.

Arboretum has very fun, shoulder-intensive spans down low; a thrilling pull to the lip, and a burly mantel. I started sitting at the far right. Not sure exactly how you're supposed to start (I began sitting with a right heel-hook, my left hand on a crimp, and my right hand on the lowest s... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Hai Karate (5.12d) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Bernd and I put some work in on this route... two years ago. I'm not sure anyone has shown interest since.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Star Wall : Father's Day (5.14a)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I remember thinking the same thing. The gear seems to be thereóbut the rests don't! I really, really hope someone does it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: If this is real, I'm there.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Gyroscope (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: In this case, less IS better. Perfectly constituted rock. Over the years, I've noticed this problem really favoring certain body-types over others. Regardless of your "type", you have to press pretty hard to finish this off.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Currently (as of August, 2013) the road is closed (I think). Apparently, they're doing some road repair. Your Camry should be fine. I've driven up there countless times in cars with low clearances.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Goldak (V0)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. Hyper-classic. Perfect setting. Superb rock.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Belafonte
By: andy patterson When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I was impressed by this piece of rock. It's huge! Lots of potential.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Vietcong Manowar aka SB Ain... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Quality problem. And as WIll says, the s.s. is indeed hard.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: By the way, all the hung draws were put there a few years ago by myself. Just a head's up for quality control.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : The Shard (5.12c R)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Wasps?! What?! That hyper-sucks. Please go back later and give it a go. I promise it will be worth it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Wow, that's an oldie. I remember that shirt well.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Pestilence Crack (5.11)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: This crack actually holds it's own in terms of novelty, and keen climbers can hone their roof-thrutching skills without having to drive to Utah. Right now, there's a Bay tree obscuring the lip of the exit (crux), but that may change in the near future, due to erosion and weather. It was looking kinda droopy the last time I saw it.

As with all obscure SB routes, cleaning is needed. Bring a brush, and wear long sleeves! I didn't. And I paid for it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Bring Out Your Dead (5.10a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Sorry about the fixed gear. Bernd and I left it there for making things convenient. We forgot to retrieve it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Natural (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: I actually love the crux of this route. My main beef with The Natural is that it isn't long enough, and is kind of a one-move-wonder. Different strokes, I guess.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Power Of Eating (a.k.a.... (5.11d)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: You have a point, Micah. Maybe it's just merely 11d, and everything else these days is uprated to assuage egos.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Better Than Life (5.13c) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: I love this move. Full-extension pull to a shallow pocket.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: This is at the jug-rest, where you shake out, chalk up, and get it all back.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Renaissance Man (5.13b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: By the way, the route definitely goes from the sit-start, which begins downhill and right of the original stand-start. Bernd and I scoped it out. At the moment, the send dangles just out of reach, beyond the provenance of my still-too-weak crimping abilities. In essence: imagine a 6 or 7-move V6/7 in to a 15-move V9/10.

Total moves of climbing-bliss: 21-22, depending on sequence.

Hooray for silly motivations.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Bodyguard from Beijing (5.14a)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: As yet unrepeated.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Hardboiled (5.13b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Yes, if I recall from the video, Normal Guy said it "wasn't as good as Better Than Life".


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Anchor Punch (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. And now that the base of the route is a bit lower than it's been in the past, it makes more sense for shorties anyway.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Micah, you've raised the bar. You're talking about the stone at the start, right?


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