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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,213
Last Year: 519
Last 30 Days: 27
76 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All (928) | Routes (88) | Areas (16) | Photos (133) | Comments (428) | Posts (3) | Stars (202) | Ratings (58)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Happy to be Here (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Unless I'm mistaken, isn't this the ONLY route of its grade at the Tor? I'm not up-to-date on the new routes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Should I Go (aka El Potrero... (5.10b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: "Should I Stay" has five bolts, and a great crux down low. Looks harder than it feels.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Color Blind (aka Rubber Man... (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: The crux down low features some bad feet and a fantastic "mini" roof which you can undercling or gaston. After that, there's a nice romp up a right-trending edge-system. At the top of the edge-system, you will find a flat ledge, about eight inches wide. You might cop a rest here, but keep in mind that the edge isn't long for this world. I could easily flex it about 1/16-1/8 out from the wall with mild hand pressure. Take care! Other than that, this route sports excellent rock.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Cleaning Lady (5.10-)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: I enjoyed this even more than Rubber Man. Surprisingly sustained climbing up high! Also a little bit longer than Rubber Man.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello"
By: andy patterson When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: Fresno Dome has exceptionally hard rock. In fact, it vaunts some of the best "chickenhead" climbing anywhere, with bullet-hard patina slabs to boot. I was shocked by how amazing the routes were—and the curious (but not lamented) lack of crowds! This place is a GEM. With great camping, a relatively short drive to town, and gobs of routes at all grades (including lots of potential), Fresno Dome is a fantastic alternative/addition to Yosemite Valley.

I love this place and can't wait to go back!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : Willow Creek Wall : Unnamed (5.11c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: I remember being very, very excited to do the crux—only to discover that runout slabs awaited me. Stay with it! Holds and feet appear on a need-to-know basis.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: Well, I'm glad we're finally talking about this.

Bob, thanks for clearing up the Mutants Amok issue. I thought the glue was keeping the hold on the wall, and I did interpret that as "reinforcement" on some level. And, to add my voice to the consensus: I agree with Bob that glue simply doesn't last in SB, or on any of the choss in proximity to SB (again, read: Echo Cliffs, where you undergo paroxysms of terror whilst grabbing every single glued hold). So based on that issue alone, I think gluin... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Mutanks Amok has tons of epoxy. Based on that precedent (i.e. if the problem is super good) I say use epoxy. Talk to me (or Phil) if you want to do it right.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Wet Work Dihedral (5.10 V1 R)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: Here's a list of noteworthy (in some circles) folks who could have/probably climbed this line prior to 2012:

Yvon Chouinard
Tim McMahon
Bill Bancroft
Rick Mosher
Amos Clifford
Steve Tucker
Chuck Fitch
Gary Anderson
Mike Forkash
Kevin Brown
Curt Dixon
Thor Archer
Menzo Baird

To name just a few. I know I'm missing some. If nothing else, you get an idea of some SB history.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Worst Idea Of The Century C... (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Conrats, Jon!

You officially have the 2nd Ascent of this "gem". I honestly never thought ANYONE would go do it after me. But, you gotta admit, it's kind of a lot of climbing for one little problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Finn Goes To Kindergarten (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: So named because Finn (Bernd's son) was starting Kindergarten soon after the send. Finn was cheering us on, so it seemed only appropriate. The rock at the start isn't the finest, otherwise this problem would warrant more stars.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Double Kneebar Ranch (5.12b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: I first climbed this post-undercling breakage, so I've never known it any other way. Definitely harder than 12b, but 12d seems slightly high. I think it's solid at 12c. This is one of those climbs you kind of just have to say is "hardish" 12, without getting hung up on specific letter grades. I've only climbed NJC over a hand-full of visits, so I lack comparisons. I did climb You Don't Know Jack (5.12c) and I thought Double Kneebar Ranch was longer, a bit more powerful, and slightly harder—at le... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Same Same but Different (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: If you're at your limit leading this grade, it's tempting to "step over" to the left and stem on the dihedral. Resist! Don't deny yourself the great top-out at the end.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Route 66 (5.9)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: I'm sorry you disapprove, Matt. Yeah, there's some looseness around NJC, but I'm going to side with everyone else here and praise this climb. The great thing about this route is the pace it requires; no matter how strong you are, you have to climb it slow and read the sequences.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Sunnyside : Red hot (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: Second that. If you blow it while pulling rope on the 2nd bolt, the ground is pretty hard. Very cool first moves.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Chocolate Wall : Death by Chocolate (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: Great positioning. I thought the roof crux was pretty spooky. If that clipping jug goes while pulling up rope (and it WILL some day), the ground is going to feel pretty hard.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : Choptop (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: Some of the better rock at Echo, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : Top of the world/Entry way
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: Kauk Slab? Sheesh, I'd be surprised if anyone has even looked at it in the last eight years. Bob? Anyone?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Windwalker (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: Done. Great name. I changed it on the heading.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Little Bear (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: Oh, and one more thing:

Try starting on the junky starting hold, and climb STRAIGHT up over the lip. Mega-burl shoulder wrenching problem. Haven't done it, pretty sure it goes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Little Bear (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: Okay, here's what I know.

Brian Spiering first listed this problem. He was one of the most stoked and explorative boulderers I've ever climbed with. I mean, this guy was hiking up San Ysidro creek to climb hyper-obscure V0's, and then he would blog about it. Awesome. Anyhoo, when he talked about Little Bear, he hadn't actually done the problem, he was just attempting to get folks psyched. He also hadn't done the SDS to Heaven on Top—to my knowledge. I did the latter problem from the sit, and th... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : The Conch (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 10, 2013

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Comments: Ha!

Nice work, Sean. Great face, with lots of subtle solutions. I started exactly as you did, moved slightly up left and then I moved up and right (crux). See where my left hand is in the picture? That's where I got my feet set up, then executed the move up and right to the big "ledge" on LOTF. That was the crux. It sounds like you took more of a direct approach. We tried both ways, and thought my way was fun, since you do this crazy barn-door move.

Totally rad boulder. Glad you had fun!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Windwalker (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 10, 2013

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Comments: Bernd and I did it years ago. About three or four, if memory serves. We thought it was a V7, and we didn't name it. Sean, if you can think of a moniker, be my guest.

I like this line. Grunty. Burl. Fun.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: andy patterson When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: Okay, EVERYONE stop what they're doing right now and email these guys. I haven't finished my coffee yet, so I'm possibly not in the right frame of mind, but this has got to stop.

Here's some contact info for one of the dudes: www.facebook.com/alanavila08


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: andy patterson When: Dec 25, 2012

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Comments: Both Kelly L. and I have amassed information and topos. Kelly leans towards the bouldering stuff. I have loads of info about local pebble-wrestling (new and old), and a good chunk of topos for obscure new routes. Bob is right: the workload is large, the rewards are few, and the labor must be out of pure love for the areas (or out of a severely deranged mental disposition).

Bob, you do realize you will be the de facto editor, right? Sorry.


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