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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,380
Last Year: 591
Last 30 Days: 7
85 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1030 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements | Comments 485 | Posts 3 | Stars 224 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: If this is real, I'm there.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Gyroscope (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: In this case, less IS better. Perfectly constituted rock. Over the years, I've noticed this problem really favoring certain body-types over others. Regardless of your "type", you have to press pretty hard to finish this off.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Currently (as of August, 2013) the road is closed (I think). Apparently, they're doing some road repair. Your Camry should be fine. I've driven up there countless times in cars with low clearances.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Goldak (V0)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. Hyper-classic. Perfect setting. Superb rock.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Belafonte
By: andy patterson When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I was impressed by this piece of rock. It's huge! Lots of potential.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Vietcong Manowar aka SB Ain... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Quality problem. And as WIll says, the s.s. is indeed hard.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: By the way, all the hung draws were put there a few years ago by myself. Just a head's up for quality control.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : The Shard (5.12c R)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Wasps?! What?! That hyper-sucks. Please go back later and give it a go. I promise it will be worth it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Wow, that's an oldie. I remember that shirt well.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Pestilence Crack (5.11)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: This crack actually holds it's own in terms of novelty, and keen climbers can hone their roof-thrutching skills without having to drive to Utah. Right now, there's a Bay tree obscuring the lip of the exit (crux), but that may change in the near future, due to erosion and weather. It was looking kinda droopy the last time I saw it.

As with all obscure SB routes, cleaning is needed. Bring a brush, and wear long sleeves! I didn't. And I paid for it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Bring Out Your Dead (5.10a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Sorry about the fixed gear. Bernd and I left it there for making things convenient. We forgot to retrieve it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Natural (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: I actually love the crux of this route. My main beef with The Natural is that it isn't long enough, and is kind of a one-move-wonder. Different strokes, I guess.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Power Of Eating (a.k.a.... (5.11d)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: You have a point, Micah. Maybe it's just merely 11d, and everything else these days is uprated to assuage egos.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Better Than Life (5.13c) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: I love this move. Full-extension pull to a shallow pocket.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: This is at the jug-rest, where you shake out, chalk up, and get it all back.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Renaissance Man (5.13b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: By the way, the route definitely goes from the sit-start, which begins downhill and right of the original stand-start. Bernd and I scoped it out. At the moment, the send dangles just out of reach, beyond the provenance of my still-too-weak crimping abilities. In essence: imagine a 6 or 7-move V6/7 in to a 15-move V9/10.

Total moves of climbing-bliss: 21-22, depending on sequence.

Hooray for silly motivations.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Bodyguard from Beijing (5.14a)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: As yet unrepeated.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Hardboiled (5.13b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Yes, if I recall from the video, Normal Guy said it "wasn't as good as Better Than Life".


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Anchor Punch (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. And now that the base of the route is a bit lower than it's been in the past, it makes more sense for shorties anyway.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Micah, you've raised the bar. You're talking about the stone at the start, right?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Sea of Love (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Grim as all get out. Really hard clips.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Ally. I think I used photoshop. Can't remember. It's a useless topo anyway; routes have been sent, added, and re-bolted.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Scrub Job (5.9+ PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: This is runout. No question in my mind.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Trebuchet (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: I added a sit-start to Trebuchet today. In a word: AWESOME! The route feels more complete, somehow. Start with left hand on sharp jug and right hand on a little dish. Crank up and right in to the start of Trebuchet. Adds some pump and power to an already rowdy line. Sooo good.

Also, and this is neither here nor there, but I'm beginning to wonder if Trebuchet might be closer to 12+ from the stand, 13a if you start seated. I'm waiting for more ascents to let the grade settle. It's hard to grade ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Trebuchet (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: On June 5 Trebuchet saw its 2nd and 3rd ascent by Elijah Ball and Bernd Zeugswetter, respectively.

Also, per Richard's warning, I added a belay bolt at the base of the start. No more belayer-climber collisions.


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