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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,365
Last Year: 599
Last 30 Days: 10
83 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1011 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvments | Comments 470 | Posts 3 | Stars 221 | Ratings 66
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Renaissance Man (5.13b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: By the way, the route definitely goes from the sit-start, which begins downhill and right of the original stand-start. Bernd and I scoped it out. At the moment, the send dangles just out of reach, beyond the provenance of my still-too-weak crimping abilities. In essence: imagine a 6 or 7-move V6/7 in to a 15-move V9/10.

Total moves of climbing-bliss: 21-22, depending on sequence.

Hooray for silly motivations.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Bodyguard from Beijing (5.14a)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: As yet unrepeated.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Hardboiled (5.13b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Yes, if I recall from the video, Normal Guy said it "wasn't as good as Better Than Life".


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Anchor Punch (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. And now that the base of the route is a bit lower than it's been in the past, it makes more sense for shorties anyway.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Micah, you've raised the bar. You're talking about the stone at the start, right?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Sea of Love (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Grim as all get out. Really hard clips.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Ally. I think I used photoshop. Can't remember. It's a useless topo anyway; routes have been sent, added, and re-bolted.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Scrub Job (5.9+ PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: This is runout. No question in my mind.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Trebuchet (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: I added a sit-start to Trebuchet today. In a word: AWESOME! The route feels more complete, somehow. Start with left hand on sharp jug and right hand on a little dish. Crank up and right in to the start of Trebuchet. Adds some pump and power to an already rowdy line. Sooo good.

Also, and this is neither here nor there, but I'm beginning to wonder if Trebuchet might be closer to 12+ from the stand, 13a if you start seated. I'm waiting for more ascents to let the grade settle. It's hard to grade ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Trebuchet (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: On June 5 Trebuchet saw its 2nd and 3rd ascent by Elijah Ball and Bernd Zeugswetter, respectively.

Also, per Richard's warning, I added a belay bolt at the base of the start. No more belayer-climber collisions.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : The Black Death (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 1, 2013

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Comments: Bernd Zeugswetter nabbed the second ascent on a hot June 1st Saturday. Proud effort!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: I'm proud to say that I was present for Phil's send of this route. Completely and utterly rad. I've never seen a route like it. A little history of that day:

I had just sent Chips for the first time. RIght after that, my buddy Dean sent Chips for the first time. Right after that, Phil sent The New Hell. Three redpoints in the space of one or two hours. Needless to say, the Tor will have its revenge over the next month.

Oh, and beta spoiler on The New Hell: get reeeaaal strong on two-fingers.
... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : The Tempest (V6)
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: Best line here. The holds at the start are big sandy jugs, but the holds at the top are perfect wedges that you can pinch, side-pull, or lie-back. I love how the line gets progressively harder the higher you get. I started low and right (didn't consult the video... but it doesn't affect the grade I think), and it seemed V6, albeit on the steep-and-powerful side of V6. Fantastic finish.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : Smokeys Cave
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: Great cave. There's a handful of some hard projects for those with crank, vision, and a brush.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Incandescence (V4)
By: andy patterson When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: I went here for the first time, and while the cave looks awesome, this particular line seemed to be VERY much in flux. All the lower crimps were super sandy and on the verge of breaking. I didn't even try it for fear of falling on my back. I'm sure it will be more established someday...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Chips Ahoy (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: May 18, 2013

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Comments: A fantastic Tor redpoint. Even if you don't "technically" climb the grade, give it a whirl anyway; this route begs be tried. Climb fast and efficient to the rest jugs, then do your best to keep it together till the clip (Dean, you know what I'm talking about).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: andy patterson When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: Great idea. I'll start mulling over my notes...

Okay, here's what I always did (back when I climbed there a lot): warm up on Yeti (3X), run up the hill and do Watch the Dog (3X), then Soot Patrol to the lip (3X), then finish by doing Akiba's Prison as many times as you can. If you fall off the latter problem before the end, get back on immediately and climb as far as you can.

This takes about 45 minutes to an hour if you keep moving. Think of it as a way to get tired quickly after work, if ti... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Purgatory (V9)
By: andy patterson When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Bernd (first ascentionist) calls it V9. I think it's the same grade as Zombie, but a bit more powerful.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Natural (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Think of this route as the "harder" version of Auto Magic.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : When The Sea Doesn't Want Y... (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Consensus has this as the best 12a at the Tor.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Strictly Ballroom (5.14a)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: First 5.14 I've ever bolt-to-bolted (barely). How do people onsite these things?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Beware rattlers during the Spring months! Check carefully amongst the boulders before you settle in to a belay stance. This last week was kind of gnarly.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dreams (V8-9)
By: andy patterson When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: I remember this problem before breakage, back when it was "easy". For some reason, I thought it was supposed to be Veasy. Bad day for my ego. Current manifestation of the problem is quite good. Beginning sequence=burl.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: I didn't realize this line had seen an ascent in 1874.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Actually, I remember this: I was trying Zombie Armageddon. Good times, good times.


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