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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 218
Total Points: 2,412
Last Year: 611
Last 30 Days: 32
90 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1037 | Routes 95 | Areas 18 | Photos 141 | Page Improvements | Comments 487 | Posts 3 | Stars 226 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: I love this problem. For a good friend of mine—a new climber—this was his first project. He sent after what seemed like fifty attempts. Even though he was only five feet off the deck, you don't often get to see someone so psyched.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Very, very cool. A crew of us from SB are coming with our cams to pluck the low-hanging (and hopefully high-hanging) fruit. So psyched!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Ant Traverse (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: This is so much harder now than when I first did it.

But I'm done whining...

Great traverse, and an absolute textbook on open-hand crimping.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Donner Memorial State Park : Split Rock East : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: What's the name of the rad little sit-start just right of this problem? I think it's a V7 or something in that ballpark...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Yowie Project (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: Bernd and I did the "dyno" start to the Yeti (also known as Yeti-direct). Different problem altogether, and clocks in around V7, depending on current state of erosion. The eliminate you describe here sounds like something I did a long time ago, but I think I might have used one of the big holds on Yeti. I can't remember. Whatever I did, it seemed harder than Yeti.

It's an eliminate, so either way you're mincing moves.

I think Bernd would say the same thing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Road is open... according to my buddy Logan. He went there last weekend.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Gala Gala Happy (5.13d)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: After several consecutive weekends of digging out the bottom of The Sea (read: cross-training), Mr. Ball redpointed this rig at the first Annual Owltoberfest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : When The Sea Doesn't Want Y... (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: In recent news, Phil et al have been steadily digging away at the base of The Sea, adding holds on the wall as they go. So far, they've added about 8 extra feet of climbing movement to the start. If you can't keep going up, might as well go down, eh?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Nice looking line, check it out if you're up there. Timmy, tell me you weren't up there in the heat of this last weekend. The problem probably jumped five grades.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: My current approach to this route includes skipping the last clip altogether. That way I can focus on just the climbing. A few other guys do this, too. I think it was the only way I could redpoint, since you HAVE to be fresh on the undercling move, and fuddling with the clip wastes precious juice.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: I vote for weighing the buckets. More accurate.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Oops... Perhaps I should clarify. When I was a kid, we used a sledge (as in large sledgehammer) to chop wood. We set a wedge on the piece of wood, and lo, we sledged the wedge till the wood split. In the case of my comp, I probably should have said "wood-chopping" instead of "sledging" since this isn't a wood-splitting comp—and neither party competing is likely to use the sledge-wedge method.

I apologize for writing without thinking. I suck.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Bring it, Tom.

I have a great sledge competition idea:

1) two axes
2) two identically sized oak logs, roughly 12" in diameter
3) each competitor climbs Power 5 times in a row, without resting
4) each competitor immediately attempts to cut the log in half with the axe, as fast as he or she can
5) obviously, the tasks are timed from the second the competitor leaves the ground on Power, to the second the log splits in twain. Fastest time wins.

I will do this. Seriously. Any takers?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Fine Line (5.9)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Incredible line. One of my top 5 at SY for sure. Despite the few runouts, this route is a great option for someone looking to hone their gear-placement skills. There's some fabulous cracks and seams.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Young William (5.12a R)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: This route has seen a wee bit of traffic, and is climbing well. Led it today after a year-long hiatus. The hot weather makes things grim!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Mutants Amok (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Utter radness. Best V5 in town, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: THE ROAD IS OPEN AND BETTER THAN EVER!!

Darren Odgers and I wept for joy today as we kissed the new asphalt up Pine Mountain. Neither he nor I expected to see road renovations here in our lifetimes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Unknown (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: i also have wondered at this problem's name. I climbed it years ago, with Darren. We call it "that steep problem in the valley". Not very creative, I know. It's well worth the walk, though.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Auto Magic (5.12a) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Favorite placement yet.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Undercarriage (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: For more butt-dragging fun, you can start on the dirt down and left of the flat boulder, then climb the "dinosaur rib-cage" into Undercarriage proper.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Hydrogen Psychosis Project ... (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: As of this writing, conditions are dictating attempts. To wit: it's been smoldery and hot lately, so all sandstone crimps in SB suck. This problem indeed has sharp little edges.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: There IS a guidebook of sorts coming out (by me). And it is ALL handrawn/cartoony. Don't expect the polish and punctilious care of the other guidebooks out there. This book will be fun, gritty, and more of a digest of SB routes and problems. As of now, I'm about fifty pages in...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Variation of the Midface (5.6)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Nice psyche, Pablo. Keep it up! I'm looking forward to seeing you hike all the 12s around the corner...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The thought occurred to me: has anyone completely campused a route at the Tor?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Arboretum - Sit (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Traffic seems to have improved this problem. I was shown the moves today, and got it after letting things go in to the shade. Do yourself a favor and don't climb it in the sun. Potters rock is gnar.

Arboretum has very fun, shoulder-intensive spans down low; a thrilling pull to the lip, and a burly mantel. I started sitting at the far right. Not sure exactly how you're supposed to start (I began sitting with a right heel-hook, my left hand on a crimp, and my right hand on the lowest s... more >>


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