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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,372
Last Year: 601
Last 30 Days: 16
84 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1022 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvments | Comments 478 | Posts 3 | Stars 223 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: My current approach to this route includes skipping the last clip altogether. That way I can focus on just the climbing. A few other guys do this, too. I think it was the only way I could redpoint, since you HAVE to be fresh on the undercling move, and fuddling with the clip wastes precious juice.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: I vote for weighing the buckets. More accurate.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Oops... Perhaps I should clarify. When I was a kid, we used a sledge (as in large sledgehammer) to chop wood. We set a wedge on the piece of wood, and lo, we sledged the wedge till the wood split. In the case of my comp, I probably should have said "wood-chopping" instead of "sledging" since this isn't a wood-splitting comp—and neither party competing is likely to use the sledge-wedge method.

I apologize for writing without thinking. I suck.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Bring it, Tom.

I have a great sledge competition idea:

1) two axes
2) two identically sized oak logs, roughly 12" in diameter
3) each competitor climbs Power 5 times in a row, without resting
4) each competitor immediately attempts to cut the log in half with the axe, as fast as he or she can
5) obviously, the tasks are timed from the second the competitor leaves the ground on Power, to the second the log splits in twain. Fastest time wins.

I will do this. Seriously. Any takers?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Fine Line (5.9)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Incredible line. One of my top 5 at SY for sure. Despite the few runouts, this route is a great option for someone looking to hone their gear-placement skills. There's some fabulous cracks and seams.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Young William (5.12a R)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: This route has seen a wee bit of traffic, and is climbing well. Led it today after a year-long hiatus. The hot weather makes things grim!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Mutants Amok (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Utter radness. Best V5 in town, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: THE ROAD IS OPEN AND BETTER THAN EVER!!

Darren Odgers and I wept for joy today as we kissed the new asphalt up Pine Mountain. Neither he nor I expected to see road renovations here in our lifetimes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Unknown (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: i also have wondered at this problem's name. I climbed it years ago, with Darren. We call it "that steep problem in the valley". Not very creative, I know. It's well worth the walk, though.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Auto Magic (5.12a) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Favorite placement yet.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Undercarriage (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: For more butt-dragging fun, you can start on the dirt down and left of the flat boulder, then climb the "dinosaur rib-cage" into Undercarriage proper.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Hydrogen Psychosis Project ... (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: As of this writing, conditions are dictating attempts. To wit: it's been smoldery and hot lately, so all sandstone crimps in SB suck. This problem indeed has sharp little edges.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: There IS a guidebook of sorts coming out (by me). And it is ALL handrawn/cartoony. Don't expect the polish and punctilious care of the other guidebooks out there. This book will be fun, gritty, and more of a digest of SB routes and problems. As of now, I'm about fifty pages in...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Variation of the Midface (5.6)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Nice psyche, Pablo. Keep it up! I'm looking forward to seeing you hike all the 12s around the corner...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The thought occurred to me: has anyone completely campused a route at the Tor?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Arboretum - Sit (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Traffic seems to have improved this problem. I was shown the moves today, and got it after letting things go in to the shade. Do yourself a favor and don't climb it in the sun. Potters rock is gnar.

Arboretum has very fun, shoulder-intensive spans down low; a thrilling pull to the lip, and a burly mantel. I started sitting at the far right. Not sure exactly how you're supposed to start (I began sitting with a right heel-hook, my left hand on a crimp, and my right hand on the lowest s... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Hai Karate (5.12d) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Bernd and I put some work in on this route... two years ago. I'm not sure anyone has shown interest since.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Star Wall : Father's Day (5.14a)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I remember thinking the same thing. The gear seems to be there—but the rests don't! I really, really hope someone does it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: If this is real, I'm there.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Gyroscope (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: In this case, less IS better. Perfectly constituted rock. Over the years, I've noticed this problem really favoring certain body-types over others. Regardless of your "type", you have to press pretty hard to finish this off.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Currently (as of August, 2013) the road is closed (I think). Apparently, they're doing some road repair. Your Camry should be fine. I've driven up there countless times in cars with low clearances.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Goldak (V0)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. Hyper-classic. Perfect setting. Superb rock.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Belafonte
By: andy patterson When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I was impressed by this piece of rock. It's huge! Lots of potential.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Vietcong Manowar aka SB Ain... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Quality problem. And as WIll says, the s.s. is indeed hard.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: By the way, all the hung draws were put there a few years ago by myself. Just a head's up for quality control.


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